I know 100mm is meant to be best and 120mm is okay ,,, whats the worst that can happen, Assuming sag is 30% it means that difference will only be 13mm ...
Will it lead to death?
Hi
I haven't died yet!
Running a 140 Pike on mine for about a year with no problems.
Just about to put 650B + wheels on it too
Cheers
Steve
I had mine (mk1) at 100mm and then 120mm. The latter made the BB feel to high to me, although was better in other ways. YMMV.
Mk1 or 2.
Mk2 seems to be designed more for a 120mm. Mk1 was best around 100 wnd okay for 80 and 120 IIRC.
I have a Mk1 with a 2 degree angle set. Going to raise the forks up to 120mm to compensate for the drop from kicking the forks out (1.5deg resultant from 2 degree angleset). Front end doesnt feel too low, I just want more travel ๐
It was supposed to be my XC bike bit it's evolved somewhat!
As a trail bike, I preferred my mark 1 with 120mm.
Will it lead to death?
Nothing surer! ๐
I asked a similar question about a mk1 Soul (and only 10mm difference) and was told quite emphatically by Cy himself that it really wasn't a good idea (head tube junctions are not designed for the extra leverage exerted, sag is irrelevant as it can still fully extend). As he's actually a real engineer by training, I'd be inclined to listen to him.
Otherwise, hey, crack on.
Mark Is were not Cern, were they?
Mine is a MK 2
Still not [i]designed [/i]for 140mm.
From the Cotic website:
Geometry with commitment! Minimum 100mm travel forks or 490mm rigid. Strong enough for up to 120mm forks
But if you know better, hey, [i]crack[/i] on.
I have contacted Cotic,
Which is the sensible thing to do ...
But my Bfe seems to be happy on 150mm and the build strength would appear to be better than that ..
Yeah, but the BFe was [i]designed[/i] for 150 though.
I bet you I know what Cotic tell ya though ๐
Yeah - they will tell me that 140mm will kill me.
Someone on here seems to disagree ๐
You got it!
I don't know though, only posted the once, he might have died through a bizarre bike accident where his head tube ripped off and killed him. Could happen.... ๐
Will void any warranty though. 140mm, not being dead I mean.
140mm feels wanders when climbing anyway. I haven't got around to dropping my Revs to 120mm, as new MK2 frame on the way and new forks (120) to go on it. Changing the frame as I've put a big dent in the top tube - that + 140mm and still alive..........
Hi
I don't find it wanders on climbs particularly.
The limitations of getting up steep climbs are my legs and my ability not the bike.
I accept that the warranty would be void but I'm prepared to take the chance.
My 26" wheel Soul has 150 Pike on it (and has had for a couple of years) for the same reason- I like the riding position it gives me and the extra travel at the front.
My choice and I'm definitely still alive
Cheers
Steve
FatGit ... ๐
But my Bfe seems to be happy on 150mm and the build strength would appear to be better than that ..
A 140mm 29er fork will probably be longer axle to crown than a 160mm 26" fork.
And don't assume those fat (for steel) tubes are the same wall thickness on the BFe and Solaris.
It would give a very high front end too.
I'm really happy with my MkI at 120mm, I think 140 would lift the BB and bars too high.
130mm on my Mk2, seems fine
@ OP
Don't forget to update the thread once you've heard back from Cotic.
@ andyl
I'd be interested to hear how it rides with angleset and 120mm forks please.
I've only used it at 100mm so far I need to either get a 120mm air shaft or swap my hub to 20mm.
I did chat with one of the guys at Cotic about it and they were very positive about the angleset and 120mm on the mk1 and they used this as a base to develop the mk2.
Coming from my scandal straight to a mk1 with the angleset it was "different". I missed the responsiveness and makes cyclepaths feel even more boring so it's one of those bikes you just use every excuse to deviate from the trail and launch it off something. The scandal was more about getting from A to B as quick as possible and as smooth as possible.
Thanks. I'm trying to decide if I keep both my Solaris (mk1) and recently acquired Karate Monkey ops.
They overlap in some ways but are very different in others. I was going to sell the Cotic but thenot the wife stepped in suggesting I keep both as, in her words 'you love bikes and they do different things.'
An angleset would increase the gap I'm thinking.
Which did you go for?
Paul at Cotic informed me that running 140mm will, as expected , cause death.
It will run better with a well set up 120mm fork than an underspung 140mm ,,,
Plus with a 140 the head tube is likely to fall off ... ๐
I'm not one to say I told you so but..... ๐
It will run better with a well set up 120mm fork than an underspung 140mm...
Oh, indeed! Undersprung will be more divie that than a dive thing...
Yes ... but I like to be a rebel...
Can lead the horse to water...
Normal man.... I am on the verge of buying a KM or a Solaris, can you comment on their respective strengths?
Thanks
Hi andykirk
Hope the following is of use. It is based purely on my riding, which is local woods, singletrack, lots of mile munching across open grassland/towpaths and a bit of road to connect it up. I'm down south so nothing really big in terms of climbs/descents, just some short and at times steep(ish) bits.
My Solaris is a mk1, I've had it a couple of years and ran it at 100mm (it is a mainly xc build) then at 120mm. I prefer the latter although find the bb at bit on the high side. It was bought to replace a more overtly xc Spesh Carve Expert (that my son now has).
In terms of strengths, it is pretty light (for a steel HT) and feels quick in terms of both 'off the line' and holding its speed. It is nice and stable and fun to play around in the local woods and singletrack.
I did miss some of the more XC (old school geometry perhaps?) feel of the Carve and having a Surly Pugsley fatbike it got me looking at the KM. Basically I was looking for a blend of those 2 bikes really.
I picked up a KM OPS in an end of line sale so it has the tapered HT and MDS dropouts. Sizing was a tough call and to get the right reach I had to 'size up' which means compared to the Cotic it is already adding more weight and less 'chuckable' in terms of feel. That said, the standover is indentical. I haven't had it long so only a few rides so my comments will be a little limited.
The strengths are it is very comfy and stable and an excellent mile muncher.
It is very precise in terms of steering. It is less playful and the front wheel takes more work to get off the ground (but I am mainly a wheels down rider anyway). Despite being less playful, it hasn't stopped me riding down the steep stuff/bombholes etc wih confidence.
My aim was to sell the Cotic but hadn't got much interest here or the other forum I put the for sale ad on. Now, after what my wife said (in my post above) I'm debating keeping both!
Thank you for taking the time to write that normal man, all good information.
I am keen to try the KM with an angleset, I know a few have gone in that direction.
No problem. Keep us posted with what you get in the end.
Okay ... first part of the rebuild has been done ....
Returning them to 120mm - so death won't be at the hands of the Solaris ....
It means that the whole exercise has been a little pointless .... however I do how understand how the fork is constructed and works !!
I though all the interesting stuff was in the bottom of the legs .... ๐ณ