Just popped back wheel off new track bike to change tube and faffing about refitting. Am I doing it right - tighten drive side nut while pulling wheel back tight. This leaves wheel offset towards drive side. Push straight and then while holding central tighten up non drive side. Chain is taught but not solid tight.
....and yes, I should have noticed how much tension was in it before undoing 😳
Spin the cranks and turn the bike horizontal / parrallel to the ground with the chainset side up, the crank should spin without the chain dropping off. A track chain need some slack. I was told to do non drive side nut first as the tightening pulls the wheel back rather than lets it creep forwards. MIND YOUR FINGERS if you spin the cranks
Thanks kilo
right,done, and I have about 1 cm of movement both up and down from static at the top in the middle of chain, seems fine
top tip which made job easier ! 😛I was told to do non drive side nut first as the tightening pulls the wheel back rather than lets it creep forwards
Can you not get chain tugs?
will - probably, but likely not allowed on Velodrome
0.5cm at the slackest point is the norm. And yes the tip about locking the non-drive side first is a good one. Chainrings and sprockets do not seat perfectly, so you will probably have a tight spot, despite a little slack. You don't need a chain tug. I find hanging the bike from the front wheel in the garage helps. And get a nice big 15mm socket spanner for teh job.
Don't forget that if you change gearing, the axle will move slightly too.
Thanks TiRed - yeah, I ended up with it in that configuration in the work stand, to let gravity pull it tight as I only have 2 hands 🙂
The max I can move it is about 1cm up and the same down, so 2cm overall, when in the tightest spot