I want an idea of what mine will look like.Im hopefully getting a e 13 xcx guide.
thanks
Bruce
I used a clear FSA bashguard and an old MRP thing and got my local machine shop to lengthen the slots to adjust the rollers so it would be OK for a 32 tooth ring. I'd like one of those new Straitline ones just cos it'll match the frame better! But at £100 or more it'll have to do for now.
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How does the old chainline get affected using 1 ring? Does it wear a bit quicker going up/down the whole block all the time?
*shrugs* Dunno really. I've got 3 bikes that get used fairly evenly, so I don't notice when stuff wears out so much.
We definitely should have a sticky on this subject!
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I think it's popular because it's so simple. The guys I ride with run 22/36 and end up starting a climb in the big ring only to have to shift down to the granny ring part way through. Running 1x9 allows me to keep a higher but more regular cadence. It works for me but then I don't have to climb Munros every time I ride.
Dark Cycles bash and n-gear jumpstop:
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E13 SLS:
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Hi guys
What size front rings are you using?
Thanks
Ruddy
I'm on a 32 front and 11:32 rear. I'd like a 34 front and 11:34 rear, but that will have to wait till the current stuff is worn out in which case I'll prolly go 10 speed to get an even bigger range.
32t front 11-34 rear. 11-36 would be even better.
1x9 using an LG1+ running 32 and 11-34. I will consider 10 speed when my drivetrain dies if I can get a larger range cassette to help a bit on the really steep stuff or when Im feeling lazy.
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Im hopefully getting a e 13 xcx guide.
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Sorry only photo I have of it as 1x9 shall get some nicer ones up once I give it a good clean! (36 front ring)
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Not great photo but you get the idea
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E13 LG1+taco, 36 ring, 11-32 casette.
I do have slight problems with chainline at the botom end of the cassette - the chain comes onto the bottom jockey wheel at a bit of an angle (the mech cage is tight forward at that point) and tends to jump on the teeth a bit. Easily solved by putting a very slight twist in the cage.
Works for me. Surrey Hills and trail centres are no problem. Peaks, a lot of stuff can be got up with a bit of grunting, the tech stuff is obviously more of a push. The bike is a size too small for me and haqs a really wee stem, neither of which help uphill, but does make it very fun down. The single ring setup is far quieter over rough ground than the doubles or triples I also use.
I must admit, I don't really get the single ring thing. Double I can really see the advantage, but not single ring, there negligible weight saving, and it just seems like a compromise, is it singlespeeding for those who don't want to singlespeed?!
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Jey 1x9.
32 front, 11-32 rear.
I have a fairly fast cadence, and I find the ratio fine for fast-paced XC rides. I start to spin out on roads, but then I tend not to bother pushing myself on the roads when riding MTB (I have a road bike for that). It is possible to spin out on downhill sections too, but in those situations I tend to be concentrating on bike-handling.
I ride with a bunch of fast people who have triples, and I don't find having a single ring an obstacle to keeping up with them.
I must admit, I don't really get the single ring thing. Double I can really see the advantage, but not single ring, there negligible weight saving, and it just seems like a compromise, is it singlespeeding for those who don't want to singlespeed?!
Ya see, I don't really get the double ring thing: limit your functionality but no real weight saving!
If you go 1x9 you can get rid of 1xshifter 1xcable 1xmech 2xrings (and bolts) and only have to add a chainguide (~60g), this means you get a significant weight saving over a triple or double, if that's your bag. If you have a double you still need the shifter, cable and mech.
I got rid of my big and small rings because I spent what seemed like 99% of my time in the middle ring - and this was on fast XC rides. The main reason I went 1x9 was because I got annoyed with having all this stuff on my bike I hardly ever used.
1x9 simplifies the bike and still gives a good range of gears.
My short blast. trail centre, 4X bike...
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And my XC bike...
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Both have 34t chainrings and i think 34t cassettes (maybe 32).
I have been riding with a single ring on all of my bikes for nearly 4 years now and really i've never found it as a compromise. I can get up all the climbs i ride locally and only find it a problem in the lakes. But the majority of the folk i ride with are also pushing at the same time.
Like someone else mentioned, i changed to a single chainring as i had a 22/32/bash on an old bike and hardly used the granny ring, tried it without the granny as an experiment and never went back.
What's the cheapest chainguide that works?
I'm not convinced an N-gage bumpstop is good enough, DMR apparently not that great and a front mech looks poo.
front mech is cheapest!
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hmmmm. cheapo.
Ya see, I don't really get the double ring thing: limit your functionality but no real weight saving!
Fair enough, guess it's a horses for courses thing, I don't see a double as limiting your functionality, it gives you all the usable gears of a triple but with better chainlines and a very slight weight benefit.
I just think I'd struggle to choose a gear that would work for me on a single ring, I'd spin out a 32, but using a 36 would inevitably end up with grunting up some of the hills, some days being able to spin, or ride with slower people is nice!
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using a n-gear jumpstop
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dude, i took that photo to show folks, after i 'lost' my keys for a whole day. they were sat on the floor for 7hrs in central sheffield yesterday, right next to my bike.
who says crime is on the up???
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Ultegra RM, 11-32 and 32t, e13 LG1 holding it all in place.
[i]i 'lost' my keys for a whole day. they were sat on the floor for 7hrs in central sheffield yesterday, right next to my bike.
who says crime is on the up???
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The security is in the paint work. No one in their right mind would want to be seen dead on that ghastly thing !