Is it really do-able or will they definitely need bleeding afterwards?
I've read that it can be done by pushing out the pistons a bit, shortening it at the lever end and then pushing the pistons back in to force any air back in to the lever.
Will it work?
I shortened mine, then held levers back to bar with a cable tie overnight.
I then opened the lever bleed port and used a syringe to dribble a small amount of brake fluid into the master cylinder.
I have not died.
With any brake assume you are going to need to bleed after shortening the hose, it will save you needing to get all the stuff ready when you cock it up.
Ta
I'll give it a go and see how I get on. Have just ordered the epic bleed kit.
Will be handy in the future for our proper bikes that also have SRAM brakes.
Does the Epic bleed kit come with the bleeding edge tool?
What's a bleeding edge tool?
The one I've ordered doesn't, by my brakes aren't bleeding edge (I don't think).
And I've shortened them and they appear to still be working fine.
Will give them a quick bleed to make sure before I use it in anger.
I've used the OP's suggested method several times. Pump the pistons out once or twice, shorten cable, fit new olives etc, and just before reconnecting, push the pistons in a fraction and pull the lever slightly so that there is a blob of brake fluid on both the nipple and the hose, and then reconnect 🙂
I'll be trying it this weekend on some Rival hydraulic brakes...after threading the rear hose through the internal routing of a frame. I'll probably tape over the end of the hose in case it takes a while to manoeuvre it through.
Well that went well...not.
Dot fluid just wanted to pee out everywhere, a bleed was on the cards before I even got the hose free from the caliper!
Thankfully I had a random bleed kit (Formula?) that seemed to fit the bleed ports so rescued it, but as Mike says, might as well be prepared and ensure you can do a full bleed if needed.
I also found the barbs and olives on my SRAM brakes needed a rarely found T8 driver rather than the T10 in the online manual, I have several bit sets and after 20 minutes of hunting, I found one in a big security bit set.
(the barbs were supplied second hand and are slightly different to the factory fitted barbs, so perhaps they are from a different model...)
I can shorten a Reverb and not need to bleed, no problem, but Avid/SRAM brakes I find a right faff. I think I managed one without a bleed but usually I find I put the new olive & barb stuff on, not having dripped anything, put together again and the lever just goes straight to the bar. So I start on bleeding and then it ends in disaster.