... a 130mm spaced steel road frame. Will it affect the disc calliper alignment?
I've done it on bikes with rim brakes with no problem, but I'm not sure whether it's going to be problematic with discs?
Nope, it'll be fine...
i wouldnt recommend it as itll put addition stress on the hub and the frame. however i cant see a reason why it wont work, just dont expect to be able to warranty it if it goes wrong.
i know strada wheels were looking into bringing a 130mm disc hub to the market, so it might be worth giving them a ring
I reckon it'll be fine. My VN Amazon is spaced at 132.5mm 🙂
Steel will put up with a huge amount - I space 110mm frames out to 130mm, stuff like that, and never have a problem. If it's a big change you need to realign the dropouts - so depending on the disc mount you might need to reface it or just use one more thin washer on one bolt, but probably not.
I've been sat stroking my Movember 'tache thinking the same thing.
I'm considering the Kona Honky Inc on the CRC sale.
But could I bring myself to do as per Sheldon to a brand new frame?
[url= http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html ]Gurt big stick method[/url]
No problem - cold setting used to be a very common practise.
But!
Once you have widened the dropout spacing you have to slightly kink the dropouts so that they are parallel. Otherwise you will get the mysterious "I've clamped my wheel as tight as it'll go, but it still comes loose" syndrome.
If your disk mount is out of parallel, you may have to do a few mods on the calliper to get it to line up, although most have probably enough adjustment already.
Steel will be fine. Plenty of roadies fitted 130mm hubs into 126mm frames when the 'standard' changed.
FWIW, it's almost certainly ok for alumninium too - though I'll not be held responsible 🙂
Also fine for aluminium - also for carbon, just don't go trying to cold-set carbon 😉
Cheers for the replies guys. I'm not too worried about the stress on the rear triangle, like I said in my original post I've done it before on other bikes. My main concern is the disc brake acting funny on account of the caliper being pushed out of alignment.
I may have to cough up and buy a costly 130mm hub any way 'cos I'm running Campag and need the right freewheel body (or spend just as much money on a Shimano hub and a Jtek thingy)
I've been sat stroking my Movember 'tache thinking the same thing.
I'm considering the Kona Honky Inc on the CRC sale.
I haven't got a Movember 'tache this year so there was no stroking and, therefore, no careful consideration involved. Fuelled up by cheap red wine I just steamed onto the CRC website and bought a Kona Honky Inc without really considering whether I really needed yet another bike in these penniless & austere times 😕
I'm looking forward to building it up though 🙂
Honky but no Humu 😉
Honky but no Humu
Martin, WTF are you on about? 😉
And where's that copy of Dirtrag with the photos I took in it?
The dirty rag sadly never materialized as promised. I'll troll through my emails and see if I can find out which issue it was in & if I can i could try emailing DR for a back issue.
How's things with the moor gang?
We've now left the city suburbs and are living just outside of Stroud, I think a now nearly own more saws than bikes!!!
Any advice on concertina doors or kitchen builds for a newbie???
The mount will be out of alignment by 2.5/65 radians - 2 degrees or so. I dream of an existence where disc mounts are welded to this level of accuracy - you'll be fine.
epicyclo - Member
But!Once you have widened the dropout spacing you have to slightly kink the dropouts so that they are parallel. Otherwise you will get the mysterious "I've clamped my wheel as tight as it'll go, but it still comes loose" syndrome.
Really? How does that work? IME the tiny angles don't make any difference...what's the rationalle?
or just use a shim and you'll correct it (if you believe it's really important)
as to a campag cross bike I use 10 speed ergos with shimano 9 speed everything else and the hubbub fix. work perfectly.