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[Closed] shimano alfine 8 fitting .

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[#2278718]

I know you need anti rotation nuts in your drop outs to transmit the torque

question is - do i need one on each side ? or is it like the rohloff where the torque gets transmitted through one side ?

before i make an expensive mistake building my fat bike !


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 7:44 am
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I have just one on the left to stop the axle rotating (green one) and use a Surly chaintug on the drive side with the chrome spacer reversed to act as a washer due to the lenght of the acorn lock.
I stuck the white spacer in my tool bag just in case i have a chain break and add a link and require to move the wheel far back etc...
So far so good! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 8:12 am
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my plan is to get a mukluk 170- 135 adaptor and mill 5mm off it - i have a 165 rear end ...

build an alfine wheel with a 15mm offset to the NDS

"should" be job done !


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 9:28 am
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I find if you use them both sides the wheel isn't going to move anyway so the chaintug is redundant.


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 9:35 am
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Mine slips forward over a few weeks. Have been considering tugs.


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 10:09 am
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IMHO - the correct set up with vertical drop outs is to put the green locking doofers on both sides and then use a chain tensioner that you adjust independently - ie the wheel stays in place and tensioner is adjusted on a regular basis?


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 11:42 am
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I just line it up and use a reasonably long spanner on the nuts.

I've got plenty spare tensioners, but they are not needed to retain the wheel if the nuts are tight.


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 1:28 pm
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[img] [/img]

thats a 170 to 135 adaptor - i need to do 165 to 135 so ill mill 5mm off it then if i think i can get it to work - and its not a million quid . would make the frame more versatile to me also !


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 1:44 pm
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[img] [/img]

get it milled on that side !


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 1:47 pm
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Looks like a job you could do at home with a piece of 12mm flat plate and a drill. Add a couple of 0.5mm washers to complete the spacing of the calliper mount or use a hope shim for the disk mount.

Relieving around the dropout side would not be too hard with a bit of care. A sharp wood chisel would remove enough metal.


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 2:12 pm
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aye but i think doing it right would mean less hassle when the enevitable happens in the freezing cold .....

i might not use the salsa kit i have access to the machinery and folk with the skills to machine me up one of my own designs ๐Ÿ˜‰


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 2:20 pm
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Engineering heresey TR but I think the frame would cope with 5mm stretch,....but if you have access to a milling machine...

Good luck clamping it up!

Loving epicyclo's bodging suggestions!


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 2:21 pm
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might look at the alfine - easier to take 5mm off the lock nut !


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 2:26 pm
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Changing subject slighty, my Alfine 8 has been hesitating to go to an easier gear, seems to be hub and not cable. This lunchtime I got a crunch and 'chain slip' in the middle of traffic, seems to be within hub slipping. Rechecked yellow lines but wondering if it needs a service already ? Every day use for 8 months often left outside.


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 2:31 pm
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That sounds like frosting up cable to me.

Double check before you spend money getting the hub serviced - ie strip cable off and put in a new inner - costs peanuts - and maybe first drizzle through some WD40 in its water dispersing role (I know it's not a lubricant).


 
Posted : 13/12/2010 4:34 pm