[Closed] Seating a tubeless valve .

You sure it's leaking round the actual valve? I've found that any air findign it's way into the rim tends to come out aroudn the valve as the nipples are a good seal on the other holes.

also, how are you making the hole in the tape - an awl seems best rather than cutting the tape in an x, ime, you get a consistent seal around the hole as the tape is uniform.

do the ring up tighter with pliers and carry a small pair of pliers out with every ride.

tbh, if it was working with Stans tape and isn't with gorilla tape then I'd just go back to the Stans...

I've had the same issues using gorilla tape. The "tapered" type valves like Stans always seem to split the tape when you tighten it.

Managed to get the front tyre of the Hightower to seal with a good tighten of the valve. The rear of my hardtail has a bit of innertube acting as a washer. That improved it, but it still has a slow leak and has to be topped up with air daily.

I used a scalpel blade to cut a small X in the valve hole, but it still splits...

Going to order some of that tesa tape and try that.

If it is the valve, I've found the Hutchinson type with a fatter rubber bung are easier to seal as they distort less when you tighten them up. (Stans should work with a Stans rim though, of course.)

My Mavic road wheel needed a proper application of tape (despite being a UST rim) and as small a hole as possible for the valve to fit through before it stopped leaking air through the valve hole. I'm convinced the hole in the rim was damaged, but it's hard to say if it was a tiny split somewhere else in the rim, as the air will always escape through the valve hole. Tape I used was dead cheap too - called "Duct gaffer waterproof cloth tape" on ebay.

If I decide to use a split tube what size do I need for a 29 rim?

I’ve had the same issues using gorilla tape. The “tapered” type valves like Stans always seem to split the tape when you tighten it.

Great tip I picked up here - use a hot soldering iron to make the hole in the tape. It leaves no weak spot, and actually thickens the tape around the hole to help strengthen it. I did the "X" cut for years, but have done all recent wheels with a soldering iron and it's much more robust.

I use Tesa 4289 (basically, unbranded Stans).

After you've put sealant in and the tyre is seated, give the tyre a good shake, up down and around focusing on trying to get the liquid into/around the valve area. Pop it back on the bike, turn it upside down and give it a good crank..or go for a ride. This usually does it for me.

When nearly being defeated in leaking valve combat I may have accidentally added a small puncture patch with the valve thru it that accidentally was covered in silicone sealant (clear outdoor variety), I'm not saying it's a good idea but my valve did stop leaking.

I've never had any problem with Gorilla tape tearing aorund the valve.  I use a dab of Copydex under the valve bung bit.

You sure it’s leaking round the actual valve? I’ve found that any air findign it’s way into the rim tends to come out aroudn the valve as the nipples are a good seal on the other holes.

This, it won't be the valve.

Good idea with the soldering iron.  Will do another layer of tape and give it a go.

I use Stans yellow rim tape wrapped round twice and then overlapped at valve, so effectively three layers at valve. Make sure it's well stuck down. Make very small ho;e with circular point only about 1 or 2 mm across then force valve through. Apply a little sealant between valve rubber bung and rim tape before pushing right down for a bit of seal. Keep pushing the valve down while tightening valve by hand. The only time this has not worked is when changing tyre but using same valve. For some reason it wouldn't seal, but a new valve did the trick. Sorry that's all I can offer.

Have put on one layer of gorilla tape and numerous valves, none of which will seat.

Are you saying that you now can't get the tyre seated?  Or just that you can't stop it leaking once it's inflated?

As stated above, leaks will always appear to come from the valve hole, so if it's the latter, then check the whole of the rim, starting with the rim join opposite the valve hole.

I think people get a bit too hung up on making the hole in the tape.  The issue is really whether the base of the valve is roughly the same shape as the hole.  In cases where it isn't, I've had some success with a few wraps of PTFE tape around the base of the valve.

Ok imagine the valve exiting the rim. Then put the wheel in the bath and the bubbles are coming out between the knurled nut and the rim.

So its the seal between the rim and the valve rubber.

Have done 2 layers of gorilla tape and a new valve. That leaks. Then 2 layers of inner tube between rim and valve rubber. Still leaks.

Haven't tried sealer on the valve as I'm not sure if that will survive the sealant.

The valve is a real struggle to pull out so it's a good fit.

Baffled.

Ok imagine the valve exiting the rim. Then put the wheel in the bath and the bubbles are coming out between the knurled nut and the rim.

Yep. Any air escaping under the tape will come out at the valve - regardless of where the leak actually is.

Is the tape you've fitted at least as wide as the internal diameter of the rim? If not, then it could be escaping anywhere around the rim, getting into a spoke hole and out at the valve hole.

A self gluing patch over the valve hole makes sure it isn’t the valve. Procore actually comes shipped with exactly that.

Although as said it’s probably leaking elsewhere, like the handy extra holes at the rim joint.

Ok imagine the valve exiting the rim. Then put the wheel in the bath and the bubbles are coming out between the knurled nut and the rim.

I had that. In the end I figured out it was just bubbles coming out of the rim cavity as it filled with water.

Hadn't thought of rim cavity will give it another go.

Just tried to put a tube in it but its so tight the rim gets holed putting it on.

I've managed to break a Pedro's lever trying to get it on.

If you have two layers of gorilla tape then the tyre will be tight to put on.

See this bit.... ?

Had a new hub fitted so took off my 1 layer of Stan’s rim strip and removed valve.

Previously this has inflated with valve in and a track pump.

You had a solution that worked. Why are you so adamant you won't just repeat it?

Dont do what I did. I had air leaking by my valve so tightened it a bit more.....still leaking...tightened it a bit more.....bugger tightened it too much and pulled the valve through the outer wall of the rim. Couldn't push it back out or pull it through. After nearly losing my fingers I got it back out. Popped a new valve in and everything was good. So I reckon I had a dodgy valve that just wouldn't seat properly.

You had a solution that worked. Why are you so adamant you won’t just repeat it?

I did it as it with one strip originally and it went down. I,ve been fighting it ever since.

Last night one strip of tape ,really tight valve and added sealant. Seemed fine when I went to bed 2 hours later.

This morning it's flat.

There's no sign of sealant near the valve and none coming through the side walls.

I've never had a problem using gorilla tape but it's the only thing different to before. Is Stan's tape really going to be much better?

It is a Stan's rim and it's really ****ing me off.

I can't even bail out and put a tube in there.

Personally I think you need to remove all the tape, give everything a good clean and try again. I never run the rim tape past the valve hole, just let the valve seat up against the rim. I also only ever use one layer of the stans yellow tape and made sure its well sealed around each spoke hole. This has always been a perfect set up for me.

I'd guess that your rim tape has a tiny hole somewhere over a spoke, or a leak path into a spoke hole. These are really hard to spot which is why I reckon start over with fresh tape and a spotless clean rim. The leak appears at the valve hole as it's the path of least resistance.

Good luck!

New tire install and I'm probably 50:50 on having to add air the next morning if it's not been 'ridden in'

Tear it all off. Clean everything, isolproyl to finish. Use the right size rim tape for your rim. Overlap your tape a couple of inches either double at the valve hole or double opposite the valve at the rim joint if you prefer.

Install your stans tape in a warm dry environment on a warm dry rim. Stretch it as you go to make sure it doesn't have creases. Make sure you get it edge to edge all the way round. Ensure its stuck to the rim shoulder all the way round. To are relying more on the bead pressing the tape into the rim rather than hoping the tape adhesive will do the job (hence overlapping the tape also)

Install valve. Either x cut, circle cut or push the valve through the tape. Push your thumb on the valve from inner rim side while tightening the knurled nut to get it snug.

Clean the bead of your tyre of old dry sealant and Seat your tyre, add sealant through the valve hole if you can as the ''cup of stans" method is invariably messy. Consider your sealant volume too.. I use 80-120ml of Conti's revosealant per tire. Instill want to hear a little sealant sloshing after the tire has been well spun and coated

As above, any route of air under the tape into the rim cavity will escape at the valve especially as there's no sealing at the knurled nut like with other brands valves.

If you Still think it's a valve seating issue?. Use dt swiss valves.

Is your tape wide enough?  Ideally you want it to go all the way across the rim bed, and possibly a little up the sides.  If you do this then it doesn't actually matter how well it seals around the spoke holes as the seal is formed entirely between the tyre and tape.  You do need to overlap the tape and make sure you get a good seal there.

You'll all be relieved to know that I've fitted stans tape and pressure is holding.

I re-taped both of my XC rims with gorilla tape as I still had some left. I used the soldering iron trick to burn a hold for the valve instead of cutting it. Rear tyre is still holding pressure after 2 days and the front one is still going strong after a day!

So my suspected tape-splitting at the valve was right. I did make sure to run a blunt object around and under the rim wall to make sure it was totally stuck down too.