[Closed] Road saddle- where to start?

Hora - I found that when I put on the same saddle as my MTB (SDG Bel Air) it was really painful. You don't use the same bits of your bum on a road bike so it does take some getting used to. I ended up with a mid nineties Flite Ti as my saddle. Maybe a good start would be a modern Flite as a standard choice?
Try a specialized dealership - they do the different width saddle and have test models to lend out you can try.
I think the main issue is that you just don't move round as much which is going to take some getting used to.

Charge spoon / scoop / knife.. seem well liked.
I like em too.. spoon for mtb and knife for road / cx

There is/ was a saddle swap shop on yah bike radar forum, might be worth a go but I don't know how popular it is these days.

There's the specialized option, they'll measure you up in a concept store and tell you what should work.

Or just stick a charge spoon on.

I went for option 3 in the end, after trying a brooks for a bit.

I have a Spoon that I took off my mtb due to cockpinch'. Coult/would it be different on the road?

Conversely, i'm using a Kore T-rail saddle (and post obviously) on my road bike as it just 'works' for me. The saddle it came with was really painful so i took a punt on the Kore. Even though its a MTB saddle it works for some reason, maybe because its a race saddle?

Could/would it be different on the road?

It's your nether regions, so are you really going to listen to a bunch of opinions on here instead of getting your Allen keys out and trying for yourself?

I assume you've experimented with different angles and fore/aft positioning. If not, try it.

A decent LBS should have a bunch of test saddles for you to try - you get to borrow them for a few days. They might also be able to recommend ones based on shapes of others that are almost right.

Don't forget to buy the saddle you like from the LBS too.

I think it might be fashion but a lot seem to go for Fizik. I started with an Aliante which is their MAMIL's offering. Comfy for my arse (YMandarseMV). I have an Arione on my best bike as it's a bit lighter. A bit more hard core but ok for centuries and more for me.

Trouble is, 'what saddle?' is very subjective and you'll likely get as many options as responses.

Can get expensive as the saddles aren't cheap.

I quite like fizik's way of describing who their saddles are for 'snake' 'bull' etc...cut out/no cut out. Then they started bringing out curved saddles and I'm confused.

I started out on an antares, tried a cutout flite and now on a tri version of the arione (it was cheaper...).

I think you just have to suck up buying / swapping till you find something that works and then stick with it / get a newer version.

On the mountain bike I've never had any issues with several different saddles I've tried.

Don't Fizik do a saddle testing thing?

This app should help you choose the right fitting saddle :

[url= http://flowmountainbike.com/post-all/innovation-saddle-selection-app-unveiled/ ]Saddle selection app unveiled[/url]

Road saddle- where to start?

At the bottom?

Fizik does demo saddles if you can find a stockist, they'll lend you a (garish-coloured) saddle for a day so you can try it for real. They work really well on the road for me though of course ymmv. [[url= http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/velozone/je-james-cycles-are-now-an-official-fizik-saddle-test-centre/ ]JE James for example[/url]] - or try borrowing a saddle or two from your mates.

The other thing that may make more difference on the road than on the mountain bike is a pair of shorts with a decent pad because you're not moving about on the bike on the same way as you would off road. I'm not saying you have to spend millions on Assos, I find the DHB Aeron Pro work really well for example, but it'll help.

Also, baggies aren't such a great call on the road for the same reason, they tend to have seams and folds in the wrong place. And make sure your seat height is right too, if it's too high you'll rock slightly from side to side and that's all kinds of bad.

Finally, as you ride for longer on the road, your butt will simply get a little more durable, though if your saddle is fundamentally uncomfortable that won't change.

I have a scoop on the winter roadie and it lovely on the old ass knuckles.

Don't forget to think about the pad in your shorts as well.Theres a big difference in comfort between the flat foam stuff and better quality shaped pads.

I had a revelation about saddles a few months back when I did a century on an 80 year old bike.

I always simply assumed that a certain level of discomfort was par for the course after 10 or so hours, you know mtfu, this is normal, need to ride more to harden up.

When I stepped of the old bike, it took me a while to realise a couple of things were missing. One was the sore arse, and the other was the lower back pain.

The first was because I was riding on its original sprung Brooks saddle, the second was because the bike was more upright than my usual.

When you consider that previous generations used to do big mileages as routine, maybe we should also consider maybe they knew a bit about setting a bike up for comfort. Almost all modern stuff is based around the racing perspective so that skews our thinking. A saddle is probably the last thing we should weight weenie on unless we are actually racing.

So now I have a shiny brand new Brooks saddle that weighs half a ton on my road bike and I'm thinking of getting another for my mtb. 🙂

(Should add I never wear padded shorts)

hora
I have a Spoon that I took off my mtb due to cockpinch'. Coult/would it be different on the road?

I've Spoons on my three mtb but found it too wide in the centre for road. Different hip position and all that

Knife for the road.

@epicyclo yeah, but, but...

I had Brooks Pro on my tourer when I usually Use B17's. The Pro was purgatory for my arse and normality returned coincident with a B17. The Pro now lives in a plastic box marked 'folly'. I also bought a Day One and the generic Genesis saddle was a killer for me. An Aliante soon had my bottom smiling (and burping) again.

Trouble is, you simply can't put a 4lb saddle on a 16lb bike - it really is heresy.

I use Spoons and Specialized Toupes (143) for MTB. They are a similar width but are padded in different ways.

B17 on the tourer though - weight is less important.

I find I don't get on well with padding and seams/non slippy saddle coverings on a road bike.

Once rode a 45 miler on a stripped SLR with out even noticing!

From my experience (I'm really picky) the Selle Italia fitting 'system' is better than the spesh one. It measures two things, pelvic tilt as well as width.

The width is obviously how wide your sit bones are.

The tilt determines how much pressure is being pushed onto your notcher. It's dependant on the length of your hip flexors. So if you have an office job and correspondingly short hip flexors you rotate more so need a larger cut out in the saddle. Which goes some way to explain why for 200 years of the bikes history it didn't need a cut out in the saddle, but often does now.

The downside is I find the cut out can rub after a while.

Ebay's the best bet IME, stick to nearly new saddles that other people have tried and not liked, old saddles sag and get more or less (usualy less once the initial bedding in is done) comfortable over time. Doesnt matter so much if a £160 saddle doesnt fit if you onky paid £70 and can sell it for the same.

Have you tried altering your saddle position; height, fore and aft, tilt? I've recently converted back to drops on my road/commuter bike and the set up and position is a little bit different from my MTB. I am having success with a Brooks team pro after a ride to fiddle with my position. I did have a read of Sheldon Brown's page on eliminating bike pain as well first.

No lower back pain at all. Lucky there.

I can only recommend what i have, i'm a big unit at 16stone, but have a Fizik Aliante, has been by far the best and managed 250 miles in 24 hours on it.

Try the more padded Fizik'z (can't remember thier names) I can only suggest as I've always used Fizik'z because they suit my bottom shape well.
The slim versions for Race days are fine for a couple of hours hacking but if your bikes a bit stiff at the back end (never ridden your P-X)then the more padded saddles will help out.
New or S/H? good question, eBay will help you out, lot's of folks change saddles straight away on new bikes (like me) and end up with a few saddles kicking about, I eBay them stating they're new never used but came on a new bike, sold all so far, so a bit NOS really or BNWOT

boblo - Member
@epicyclo yeah, but, but...

...Trouble is, you simply can't put a 4lb saddle on a 16lb bike - it really is heresy.

At any time in the last 40 odd years I would have thought the same.

Now my thinking is 16lb bike, 4lb saddle, WOW! a comfortable 20lb bike! 🙂

Here is my comfortable saddle in all its glory...

[url= https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7428/12913493594_13d35aa205_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7428/12913493594_13d35aa205_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url]

The saddle is one of these and it's "only" 1,120gms 🙂

[img] [/img]

I have a Fizik Gobi currently on my mtb bike. Its there because my beloved WTB saddle literally fell apart. The Fizik causes numbness no matter how I position it.

would it be bad-form to fit a WTB? Then again what works on a mountain bike wouldn't translate to a road..

The one thing I do like about the Gobi is its narrowness to allow more movement in baggies.

baggies.

You'll never be comfortable, horrible flappy chaffing things.

hora - Member
...Then again what works on a mountain bike wouldn't translate to a road..

Very true, because what I use on my mtb is the polar opposite - an SDG I-Fly I-Beam - which is about as hard as it gets. I can happily ride that for 24 hours without discomfort, and again without padding. But that's because on a singlespeed I'm out of the saddle a lot. I can't go more than 3-4 hours on the road on it without starting to feel sore.

Could the Gobi work on the road bike? Will have a play.

molgrips has lots of saddles in his garage, go round and try some out 😀

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/which-cheap-saddle-sdg-madison-flux-spoon

In true 'recommend what you have' style a Specialized Toupe+ works for me, though I've not ridden it more than 7 hours. Charge Spoon was horrid.
Have a Planet X team saddle on another bike and that is ok for 50 miles.
If you take the Specialized sit bone/saddle recommender I would almost put money on you needing a 143mm saddle.
I tried the snappily named selle italia max flite gel flow and didn't really like it, just haven't got around to selling it, because you never know...

I went with the Fizik demo program, which worked out nicely. Got to try two saddles for a fortnight each, then picked the one that felt nicest. However, I did have to pay retail for the saddle. IMO it's worth it for a comfy bottom on long rides.

Give the Spoon a try. It's a favourite amongst Audaxers, right behind Brooks, so it can't be that bad.

I've used one on and off for about three years, swapped around 3 different bikes, and whilst at times I've cursed it, I'm currently getting on with it very well, riding anything up to 10 hours on the road bike. Position is very important with it, I've found. There's little margin for error. I'm still certain there's a comfier saddle out there for me somewhere, but for now, the Spoon is satisfactory.

hora - Member

would it be bad-form to fit a WTB? Then again what works on a mountain bike wouldn't translate to a road..

Only thing will be position, you will sit differently on your roadie and the wtb maybe made for an upright position.

Only thing to do is try it, bet it gives you numb balls..

From memory the Gobi and WTB saddles are completely different shapes,Gobi's have more of a rounded top whereas the WTB's normally have 2 raised sections to the rear not unlike a Charge Sppon.

My arse suits saddles with a more rounded top, currently using a Turbo on the road bike and a Concor lite(for extra liteness) on my rigid MTB, both have similar rounded tops,got a spoon on the Hardtail which is Ok for rides upto 1hour but then discomfort sets in.

Sounds like you need something more like the WTB's if that was previously comfortable on the mtb.

B17. Can ride one in jeans with absolute comfort.

For something lighter test a Fizik Aliante.

My favourite is a Flite Ti original, but I am happy on an Arione as well. The testing is helpful, but different saddle coverings have different feel. The smooth white/black Arione on the commuter is much firmer than my other two.

So..I took the chunky WTB idea and ordered...a slightly slimmer WTB Silverado at 14quid sale. Bikeradar hated it, mtbr reviewers are good.

But then when did UK mags like WTB aka non-mag advertising company..

I fitted my old Charge spoon. I didn't even notice it. Weird. I hated that on the mountain bike. Tonight I'm experimenting with the new WTB- if I don't get on with it, I'll order a new (not tatty) Charge Spoon in black for the road bike 🙂

The one thing I do like about the Gobi is its narrowness to allow more movement in baggies.

Get some proper shorts and a decent road saddle. (Specialized/ San-marco/fizik/pro-logo/selle italia etc).

No. I've found that I like my padded inner lycra under green cargo shorts. It doesn't flap etc either. Sorry if its not 'road' and its probably abit american or amateur but I think grown men in lycra shorts should either be elite/top club riders/pro's.

Anyone else- it looks creepy as ****.

It's a strong look
[img] [/img]

I think grown men in lycra shorts should either be elite/top club riders/pro's or teens.

You will understand once you have done some proper cycling 🙄