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So literally just the same. Rim strip using something like stans tape. A tubeless valve, some sealant and a proper tubeless road tyres?
worked for me, although I will say that with it not being a proper tubeless rim and pressures/speeds being higher, I did a bit of research to make sure other people were using the rim ok & hadn't died horribly!
i've got Schwalbe Marathon Plus (35s, i think) on mine. No punctures in 5years on the same tyres.
But they are very slow rolling
[i]Mavic Ksyrium Elite rims (not tubeless specific). [/i]
You sure? - they've been tubeless specific for a good few years.
Hmm... I didn't think they were, but it's possible I suppose! Stock wheels on my 2012 Cannonale Synapse.
Happy days... checked when I got home today (took the car today) and my Bontrager rims are tubeless ready. But disappointed the bike didn't come with valves and tape though.
So now my new question is...
Should I go tubeless and if so what tyres/sealant/rim strops would people recommend? Commuting twice each week and one long Sunday ride each weekend.
I've heard a lot about Gatorskins being unreliable in the wet so I'm running mine at 90 psi + riding very carefully. They're 28s too so hopefully I'll stay upright.
I did look at the Continental Gatorhardshell too - they don't seem to have the same reputation for poor wet performance but they appear to have the same rubber as Gatorskins - the only difference is an additional layer of puncture resistance.
Anyone got experience of both? Are Hardshells grippier than Gatorskins?
I'm probably going to regret having posted this on tomorrow's ride but... been riding GP4000's with latex tubes (25's at 80/90) this winter on some pretty shitty country lanes and I've not had a problem yet. I'm a bit surprised TBH but I reckon the suppleness of them actually makes them less puncture prone. I was prepared to put up with a few punctures to run nice rubber as the ride is so much better, but so far it's been fine. YMMV.
+1 for marathons. No point fannying around with summer tyres in winter. They are heavy though.
I've still managed to puncture them twice in the past 3 years - once was a 2 inch nail and the other was due to the tyre being overworn (I do a large amount of miles)
Marathons.
The slow rolling issue isn't an issue, I'm commuting not racing, think of it as resistance training. Current cx commuter bought in August came with maxxis mud wrestler, I'll run them til they die and then get the marathons on.
The marathons will seem fast by comparison.
Going to throw a curve ball in, what about Tannus Solid tyres?
I had to ride a lot of rural roads for commute and with so much mud and a lot of flint in the area i live, i had a string of 4-5 punctures a week, often having to repair them in unlit area with no pavement.
I put Tannus on my commuting singlespeed and have had them on there for about 2500 miles, so have quite a bit of experience with them.
POSITIVES.
- They ride a lot better then you expect a solid tyre to ride, actually grip pretty well and have less rolling resistance and less weight, than something like Marathons.
- You do not have to carry spare tubes, pump, levers etc.
- They are barely worn at 2500 miles and are supposed to last for about 8000-9000.
NEGATIVES
- Git to fit at first, but you get used to it.
- It takes about 300 miles to get them to "scrub" in, they have a harder outer layer which is a bit slippy, after 300 miles they become a lot better.
- Whilst they do roll well and are better than many normal tyres, they are solid tyres, so you do feel the bumps in the road more, but not as bad as you'd think.
- Cost
So all in all, i think they are perfect for shorter distance, urban commutes and it is great not having to carry pump etc. But my commute was 28 miles each way til recently and by the end of a long day, i'd find them a bit physically wearing due to the vibration.
Interesting that solid tyres are getting usuable, scud - thks for posting that. Reckon they will become steadily more popular as materials improve.
Are they glued on, out of interest? Wondering how the 'bead' works for a solid tyre, if in fact they have one.
That is interesting! Even with tubeless you have to keep them pumped up once or twice a week - not having to do that would be good. And to eliminate the possibility of punctures = win.
Conti GP 4 seasons if you want road bike sizes.
My bet is that either you haven't removed the original debris or you've not pumped the tire up hard enough and pinch flatted.
I wouldn't bother with 2 tubes, just one plus a puncture repair kit for the odd time this happens.
Also, when you get a puncture, don't just feel round the tyre to find any debris. I used to do this but after a couple of spates of punctures commuting, I found that tracing the hole whilst there's still some air in the tyre (or reinflating the punctured tyre) makes debris removal a lot more effective and faster (Under 10 mins to carefully remove debris, new tube and reinflate).
2 tubes would just mean getting another puncture the next morning if the debris is still in the tyre.
I would add a length of duct tape around your pump in case you rip a tyre though - this has saved me a walk home once or twice, plus you can use it if there's any damage you're just not sure about on the tyre.
@Garry_Lager - article here shows fitting procedure http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/product-news/puncture-proof-install-solid-tyres-146970
Garry_Lager - Member
Interesting that solid tyres are getting usuable, scud - thks for posting that. Reckon they will become steadily more popular as materials improve.
Are they glued on, out of interest? Wondering how the 'bead' works for a solid tyre, if in fact they have one.
They are held on to the rim with a number of plastic pegs, so you strip the the rim tape out, choose the plastic peg that will be tight in the rim and place the pegs through holes in the bottom of the tyre, so you place one side of the plastic peg into one side of the rim, then seat the inside of the tyre into the rim, then there is a supplied tool that pops the second side into the rim, can be a bit fiddly for the first 10, but you then develop the technique.
Takes no longer (and a lot less cleaner) than setting up road wheels tubeless.