Removing spring fro...
 

[Closed] Removing spring from Rockshox - do I HAVE to use a socket wrench?

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Or can I use a spanner or adjustable spanner? Any ideas? To buy a socket wrench is quite expensive, even if I could find a 24mm socket.

Thanks!


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 2:37 pm
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I always use an adjustable but do it very carefully and make sure it's adjusted tight to the flats so it doesn't round them off.


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 2:41 pm
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Well, a 24mm socket would be the best tool for the job. Less chance of slipping, and rounding off the top cap. A 24mm spanner would be the next thing, but I'd stay clear of adjustables, as they have a nasty habit of slipping at the crucial moment.

One thing that anyone should learn about maintenance, is that it's better to do the job propply, than bodge it, and suffer problems later on. I should know, I've done enough failed bodges.

24mm socket shoont cost more than about £5, and a plain drive arm about £10-15. So, £20 for the tool might sound a tad spensive, but new top caps cost a bit more, plus the labour for a mechanic to get the buggered one out, etc...

If a job's worth doing....


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 2:43 pm
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shouldn't be a heavily torqued bolt. I'd say chances of rounding the bolt are minimal. More likely to mark your crown on first turn with an adjustable.


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 2:47 pm
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As rudeboy says, plus be sure to get a socket that's 6 sided, not a star, so it drives the flats properly. Halfords sell them.

BUT I've done it before with an adjustable when needs must, top caps aren't done up tight, but they have a long soft (alu) thread. Just be very careful. And if you round it off, it's your fault not mine 😉


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 2:48 pm
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Torque should be 60 in-lb according to the service instructions...


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 2:49 pm
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As a side note. When changing the spring on fox forks an adjustable is actually preferable due to the low profile top nut, the socket slips too easily rounding the edges


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 2:49 pm
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try a (well-adjusted) adjustable on one bit (ie 2 opposing sides) only of the top cap. If it works, fine. If it slips you should be able to use a proper socket on the remaining "corners" even if you've rounded 2 of the six.

(calling grown ups: I imagine it'd be hard to actually break the cap, wouldn't it - rather you might round-off 2 corners??)


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 2:51 pm
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Lots of good advice. Anyone know how tight 60 in-lb is in terms of hand-wavey tightness measurements?


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 2:58 pm
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Here...
[url= http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/24MM-1-2-DRIVE-SOCKET-CHROME-VANADIUM-STEEL-HEX-SOCKET_W0QQitemZ120406756732QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item1c08cd4d7c&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1683|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50 ]CLICK[/url]

£3.30 posted.!!! Bargain.

A new top cap will cost more than that should you shag it up.

If your near Lichfield I've one you can borrow.

PT

To convert lbs/in to Nm divide by 10.
60lbs/in = 6Nm, about as tight as you could get it with the short end of an allen key.


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 2:58 pm
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Thanks takisawa... but... but... i'm going riding tomorrow and wanted my nice new firm spring in...!

Must remember to plan more thoroughly for maintenance.

Unfortunately not near Lichfield!


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 3:03 pm
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I successfully removed mine with an adjustable but the risk of slipping is high and if the thread is tight you might well find it hard to remove. Proper tools are always best. Spanner slips you can damage the nut


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 3:04 pm
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Adjustable will be fine if you're careful. It's a big nut and not that tight, so you'd do well to round it off.


 
Posted : 10/06/2009 3:49 pm