I've been playing about with this over the last few years and the only way I've managed to get this to work is to use brand new pads, but I'm thinking there must be a way to do this.
The contact Adjuster does work, but all bleeding says it should be all the way out when bleeding. If I put it all the way in and do a bleed, would I then have less throw so that when the contact adjuster was screwed out that would reduce the lever throw?
Before I had brakes with an adjuster I used to remove the wheel and give the brake a squeeze as that would then advance the pistons - which would work, but that seems a bit lame with an adjuster on the lever.
So, my current thinking is to screw the contact adjuster all the way in so I have maximum lever pull, bleed the brake as normal - bleed the hose from caliper up, then lock the lever syringe off and bleed the caliper (pulling syringe back to remove the air bubbles then give the a wee push on the syringe and closing bleed nipple); then do the same with the lever; finally replace bleed nipple on lever and then do a final wee push on the caliper before properly closing the bleeding edge port. I'm thinking this should then have a shorter lever pull, then when I screw the contact adjuster all the way out, it should reduce the lever throw even more.
Does that sound like it will work? I really like the Codes as they work very well and have plenty power, but I don't like the large lever throw...I reckon I'm getting about 30mm lever throw and I'd prefer 15mm or 20mm...
Yes, I'm aware this makes me sound properly fussy!
I’m fussy too.
I don’t actually have throw adjusters on mine, but in searching for a solution to my excessive lever throw on my RS brakes, I’ve definitely come across people doing exactly what you’re suggesting and it working. Can’t find you a link right now but I’m sure I’ve heard it said that the SRAM bleed instructions are wrong and what you’re suggesting is correct.
edit: and good idea, I’m gonna try advancing the pistons on mine and go for a lunchtime ride right now cos it’s too sunny for work.
Cheers!
Using a thinner bleed block can also help a bit
Yes, setting the contact adjust contrary to the SRAM instructions works. You could put it all the way the other direction but I find around half way gives you plenty of room for adjustment (and you don't have to remember which way to wind in/out).
Already using the thicker rotors...ta.
even with the thicker rotors, you might just have over fill the fluid
Unsure overfilling with fluid would mean the lever throw increases (or remains 'massive') - I'm saying massive but the tip of the lever moves 30mm, which feels far too much for me and I can't reduce it. That is with the contact adjustment fully wound out...if I wind it in, then the lever throw is even larger.
So I'll do another bleed but with the contact adjuster fully in...I'd hope this results in a setting that means when I wind the adjuster outwards, the throw reduces.
I'm unsure about the overfilling...I can sort the caliper end as the bleeding edge thing means zero fluid loss...but my lever always leaks, so doing that last seems to remove fluid and therefore 'pressure'...so I'll see how this new method goes.