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Hello
I have been using a HG- 73 shimano LX, and man, it rusts...
I ride in rainy, cold, some snow, and salty roads in DENMARK,
and even though i keep it well lubed, it turns rusty.
Should i go for a wipperman, or rohloff or ?
Belt Drive?
If it's rusty that means there isn't a good covering of lube on it.
Get some proper gloopy winter lube.
You could buy a Ti. chain if you have a bit of spare cash. That won't rust.
What trb said. Lube it proper
KMC do some anti-rust chains, IIRC in testing it they had salty water sprayed at the chain for thousands of hours. 😆
KMC - I'm using http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=25422 on my hardtail, no corrosion so far with very little looking after.
I find that properly maintained chains don't rust.
Why does it matter if they do rust?
@ Scienceofficer - I don't think you've ridden in the wet enough 😉
Why does it matter if they do rust?
+1
Rust on side plates isn't really a performance issue, even on the rollers it doesn't really seem to matter, so who cares!?
PC971s have zinc coated outer plates, 991s have coated inner and outer to stop them rusting, seems to work!
I've heard that Rholoff chains are excellent for keeping rust at bay, but I don't tend to find it a major issue apart from it's not as shiny.
Wipperman 908 + squirt lube.
I normally whip the chain off after the ride, rinse it in the sink, and then dry it under the grill! Squirt has made this easier as I now don't have to scrub it. If you do this then don't loose half a split link down the u-bend....
Obviously I don't have a wife to tell me off for using the grill like this.
Another really quick & easy way of cleaning your chain is to whip it off (I use link pliers so it really takes about 10 seconds) bung it in an old water bottle with some degreaser / fairy liquid. Lid on. Shake.
I then dry it in an old towel and gt85 it, back on the bike. Lube it later on or before next ride if I forget.
All in all it takes me less than 10 mins.
When you get back give it a squirt with a hose or bucket then run the chain through a dry rag. Takes 2 mins. Stops rust and stops build up of old lube/crud
Connex stainless steel? However I'd echo what has been said already, if it's looked after properly it won't rust...
I use KMC X9 SL chains and they show very little rust even after 100 odd miles in a week and no lube during those miles. I maybe get a wee bit of surface rust showing but nothing major. Quick clean and lube and it's gone though.
Unless you clean your chain after every wet ride, and doing back to back rides for a week makes that not very practical, then you'll get rust on any chain apart from Ti.
I spend my time on the Mendips mostly, which, I can assure your is quite wet. It receives about 3ft of water a year and is pretty muddy too, but I don't dump my bike after a ride and expect it to be ok by itself.
😉
Ti chains seize BTW.
A week without lube in the wet?! Don't you like your bike?
i use sram/kmc nickel coated ones, they don't seem to rust
[b][u][url= http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html ]Sheldon Brown has the answer[/url][/u][/b]
Me, I vote for belt drive for less faff.
Another vote for Sram PC991
[i]A week without lube in the wet?[/i]
Well I ride around 7000 miles a year on it and it seems to be doing fine on a once a week lube in the wet.
If the chain isn't properly lubed then you dramatically reduce the life of the components. If it's rusting it's not lubed enough...
[i]If the chain isn't properly lubed then you dramatically reduce the life of the components[/i]
??
?!
The chains on my bikes usually have a bit of rust on - I have no other option but to store them in a slightly damp former coal cellar. That's despite them having plenty of lube on. They don't seem to wear any quicker than before I or break more. Doesn't really bother me.
I suppose you could have a well lubed chain with dry outer plates but that is easily sorted with an oily rag.
yeah what they said above, i use "winter conditions" lube it comes out green in a small green and black tub, apply this to your chain and stops it rusting 🙂
?! as in where is the proof that a chain showing rust on the outside isn't properly lubed.
It's what's on the inside of the rollers that counts not what's siting on the outside of the chain attracting cack.
I agree, but you seemed to be doubting that lube increased drivetrain longevity...
A week of wet riding does sound like you're pushing it though. Hey ho! 🙂
Yeh but it's a week on the road.
Rusty outer plates are cosmetic and will happen on a bike ridden in winter conditions on gritted roads.
Rollers & pins need to be lubed, if they are the rusty part of the chain then that is [u]a bad thing[/u]
I've found that the more expensive chains (usually silver coloured) resist rusting more than the cheaper chains, but on my winter road bike I fit the cheapest Sachs chain i can get in October, run it through the winter with very little TLC except running it through a rag regularly and re-lubing it and then leave it until the following October when I put a new chain on again (doesn't get much use in the summer). Not killed the drivetrain (yet)
Another vote for Sram PC991
Ditto
