Changing cassette this morning and notice my rear hub is all marked, apparently its made from soft cheese.
Any idea how I stop the new cassette casuing more damage?
I assume if this continues eventually I'll need to replace the hub 🙄
Happens on any alu freehub (most decent hubs except Shimano or Hope if you opt for the steel option or possibly pay through the teeth for Ti option).
Using cassettes with a carrier for the bigger sprockets helps as the lower gears will be worse for it, but you'll still get some marking in the smaller sprockets.
So it always the case that the hub will need replaced eventually?
Looks ok to me, file the burrs off, replace the cassette with an XT,SLX or similar (needs to have an alloy carrier) and tighten it, proper tight 40nm.
I asked a similar question the first time I took the cassette off from my shiny new bike.
RTM and it tells you to file the burrs off occasionally and not worry about it*...
* I might have made this bit up.
Not the whole hub, the freehub can be removed and replaced separately.So it always the case that the hub will need replaced eventually?
Thanks guys. I'll dig my file out.
Two months in and the alloy freehub on my Spanks is holding up far better than the Hopes I used to run.
Yeah, likewise DT last better than Hope. Probably different alloys or better tolerancing reducing play, since i used literally the same cassette on both...
Torque your lockring up to 40 nm, this locks the cassette cogs together so they move as one spreading the load and avoiding the problem of individual cogs digging into alloy freehubs.
Seriously I used to be able to weld freehubs and cassettes together in a single ride, got told to do this, now do not have a problem.
It's why both shimano and SRAM cassette lockrings rings have 40 nm clearly etched on them.
Nowt wrong with alloy freehubs so long as you RTFM