[Closed] Re-lacquering carbon frame

I'd be more worried about finding a way to remove the paint without affecting the carbon.

That's already been done. Simples 🙂

I Got a half decent finish using a spray can over some mods I did to a cf fork using sheet and epoxy. Finish had potential but I'd not prepared it that well. Pic may be on an old thread.

I reckon you could get a very good finish if you start with a smooth enough finish.

No idea re. durability, it is IME rubbish with spray paint.

I actually fancy the matte look lacquer as on some of the BMC frames.

take it to your local automotive refinisher, they will be able to use 2k matte/glossy lacquer whatever you want.

if you just use rattle cans (acrylic) it will chip easily and then you'll get water ingress.

Great. That's the sort of info I need.

To protect the downtube, the rubber Trek carbon armor that comes on their carbon bikes can be bought seperately. About a tenner iirc. As long as your tube profile is similar it should stick on no problem and give you some protection.

bueller just a quick question where have you seen the protection rubber for sale ?

The marine industry has been using carbon for a long time, it's typically lacquered (clear coat) or painted to protect it from UV damage. This has to be done periodically. Plenty of boat builders etc on the South Coast.

Shredder, I saw it at my LBS listed on their Trek dealer computer thing. I ordered it as the one as my Remedy is starting to peel. They had 2011 and 2012 carbon armor listed. Any Trek dealer should be able to order it. Mine should be here Thus.

If you want one and have any trouble finding it, let me know and i'll order another and post it on.

Do you need to finish??
Or could it be raw carbon??

found the pic FWIW

[url= http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6064/6057915501_f2c10da8c2_z.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6064/6057915501_f2c10da8c2_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/7693620@N05/6057915501/ ]IMG_1396[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/7693620@N05/ ]alan cole[/url], on Flickr

Speak to Daz the carbon repair man [url= http://www.carboncyclerepairs.co.uk/index.html ]Carbon Repairs[/url]

He repaired a crack in the lacquer on my top tube for £50. Nice bloke as well.

Argos cycles wanted £150 before even looking at it!

A rattle can job may be ok, but the quality of lacquer may be shabby on such a large area. I did an ok job of a carbon seatpost after giving it a rub down.

Thanks but as the Op says, I don't want to have to post the frame away and ad this cost.
I've spoken to a few carbon frame builders and I'm going to do the spraying - I may have to wait a while for the temperature to increase.

What kind of fork is that? The brake mounts are on the wrong side!

globalti - Member
What kind of fork is that? The brake mounts are on the wrong side

Looks good though IMO

What kind of fork is that? The brake mounts are on the wrong side!

Looks like cynic-al has added his own disc mount to a road / cx fork. Added on the right to stop the disc forces pushing the wheel out of the dropout - see 3rd article done here: http://www.cotic.co.uk/geek/

http://www.boeing.com/commercial/aeromagazine/aero_07/corrosn.html

"For example, graphite fibers, which are used to reinforce some plastic structure, present a particularly challenging galvanic corrosion combination. The fibers are good electrical conductors and they produce a large galvanic potential with the aluminum alloys used in airplane structure. The only practical, effective method of preventing corrosion is to keep moisture from simultaneously contacting aluminum structure and carbon fibers by finishing, sealing, using durable isolating materials such as fiberglass, and providing drainage. Figure 14 shows the 777 carbon fiber-reinforced plastic (CFRP) floor beam design and corrosion-protection methods. An aluminum splice channel is used to avoid attaching the floor beam directly to the primary structural frame. "

As above, def get a clear coat 2 pack over the top rather than an acrylic job from a can. A good place should be able to allow you to spec the percentage of gloss from 0% to 100%. I'm lucky to have access to a bay & breathing kit to do my own but it's not easy to get it right I've found - overspraying one tube whilst doing the next and trashing the surface finish. Fun trying though.

I'd invest a few quid in a pp3 disposible mask or two if you are going to be rubbing down the carbon or the 2 pack any more.

Re lacquering can be done easy. As said the marine industry has been using carbon for masts, hulls etc. for over 20yrs now and most use 2pack. If you are fussed about it West Systems a good start, it's a teeny bit expensive but is UV protected and proven in the marine industry for length and finish.
That car stuff in cans will go on thin, you'll need lots of coats, but the West System stuff is thicker in that there is less thinners in it, but you can mix it yourself to whatever ratios you see fit.

I've re coated many masts and hulls, spreaders and the like, it's lasted well, tends not to crack unless near fittings under compression.. I've tarted up my winter carbon roadie with it and it's blended well with the original factory finish (no idea what it was sprayed in)

Aladdins Cave at the top of Swanwick Marina sells the stuff.

"RE-PAINTING
Modern frames not only have very thin walls, but have thermal and surface treatments that could be damaged when removing the old paint and preparing the surface for the new paint; moreover carbon frames could be subject to structural damage due to the possible damage to the outer carbon layer. This is why re-painting is generally not recommended and is prohibited for carbon frames. In any case re-painting, even partial, voids the warranty and, if re-painting causes a structural failure, Pinarello would not be responsible."

Plastic boats tend to be polyester.
Plastic bikes tend to be epoxy.
But both will degrade with exposure to UV light.