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bikerbruce - Membermy wheels weigh 1800gs with everything on tyres rotors shewers and cassette.....this wasnt a competition it was just to show it can be done.
Bruce
Right then if thats the case - component breakdown - me thinks you spout bollox (or made a humble mistake)
simply_oli_y - Memberbikerbruce - Member
my wheels weigh 1800gs with everything on tyres rotors shewers and cassette.....this wasnt a competition it was just to show it can be done.
Brucehold the phone,
thats not possible bruce, xc3 tubs weigh near enough 600g each, a pair is 1200, that means your wheels/skewers/cassette/rotors come to 600grams.... no hope in hell!
Exactly my thoughts, no chance at all. 2800g at a real push maybe?
Even thinking about 1200g wheels with the lightest clincher tyres, an alu cassette, Tune skewers and Scrub rotors you'd still be well over 2kg without even thinking about sealant and such.
a huge push nick
i didn't know mavic did a tub version of the slr, but standards are claimed at 1520 (without skewers) say 200 cassette, and 140 for rotors (using stans alloy ones)
still puts them at 3100 odd
sorry i meant 2800g all in :S...my mistake.seriosly though i was only highlighting what you can do, this is set up for xc racing and riding.
i wouldn't downhill etc on this.
for the record they weight 1300g ..........
Not suggesting you're wrong or anything, but again... how? Not questioning the build, it looks light, I'm genuinely interested!
1300g + 1200g for the tyres = 2500g?
You appear to be running stock Avid 160mm rotors, c105g each.
What skewers and cassette have you got?
makes more sense! but still seems awful light, looks like a standard cassette (Assume 990 to match) thats another 300g, which with 1300 wheels, and 1200 tubs makes 2800! still gotta add rotors/bolts/skewers.
I'm in that photo but that was just before the nationals so needed vaguely decent rotor,usually its aligator windcutters and an sram 11-32 cassette pg 990 ?i get mixed up with models the red splined one with red kcnc lockring,ti rotor bolts and kcnc skewer and lefty doesnt need shewer so saves weigh has a ti bolt fixing that in.....
so pretty light altho i like the look of the new tune lefty hubs on race7000s with ti spokes 1150gs about
Seriously nice bike bruce!! you are a real weight weenie 🙂 I am abit of a weight weenie myself and have learnt when you go down this track, it is expensive for light and strong components.
Learnt from experience, to have a light bike, it is important that you start with the frame, choose a frame that suits your riding style and purpose then the lightest possible with a life time warranty. Next move onto the wheelset, I normally have several wheelsets, one for training and racing, but again choose a wheelset that suits your riding purpose and then the lightest possible (and have then built by a good wheel builder). Then look at forks that suit the frame and wheelset, I would consider performance before weight here.
ROFL Harris : as say before, I would change out your tires as you can get better ones than you have currently. Look at your stem, bars and seatpost, but upgrading these will not be cheap, but have a look for "syntace" components as you can pick up some good deals on these (stem and bars) also "FSA" for stem.
At the moment I am weight weenieing myself and that hurts 😕
i like the look of the new tune lefty hubs on race7000s with ti spokes 1150gs about
Mmmm, flex tastic! I'd stick with the American Classic/ZTR Race 7000 wheelset, that comes in a Lefty flavour. By all accounts using hubs with smaller, asymmetric flanges with ZTR Race rims makes for a flexy wheel, and ti spokes are awful if you actually want to use the bike! So yes, get that wheelset if you want to hang your bike on some scales, but not if you want to ride it!
As an aside, even with Alligator rotors your wheels still come out over 3kg, I'm going to choose to doubt your scales. Still a nice bike.
ti spokes are awful if you actually want to use the bike!
Would you care to explain please?
They are extremely flexy and make for a wobbly wheel when combined with very light rims.
"njee20 - Member
...the answer to the question 'can I save weight without spending money' is... NO!"
Old trick is to cut off any excess of the seatpost. All you need is the minimum insertion length in the frame. Not such a saving if you're tall.
Aye, tis a good point, also makes the seatpost harder to sell on if that bothers you.
I once leant a 31.6x410mm Thomson post to a stupidly weight obsessed friend to borrow for his road bike. He returned it to me having cut it down to about 250mm, totally needless, he just couldn't bear to make his bike heavier for the 3 weeks he had it or something. I wasn't particularly amused.
buy a smaller diameter seapost (26.8 or 27.2) and shim it up to your frame size, got to be lighter than 400mm's of fat seatpost?
njee20 I trust your "friend" bought the seapost off you?!