Hello folks.
My first post here, though I've been lurking a little while and learning.
Hoping for some sage wisdom on groupsets.
Me and a pal are going to ride the GB Divide this summer. I'm building a bike for this and other away-from-the-main-roads touring in Scotland and EU and as a general daily bike for shopping and smashing around bridleways/towpaths and whatnot in rural Wales. I'm not rich, so aiming to build a decent, capable bike from the ground up for not too much cash.
I've gotten hold of a cromo 2001 Marin Bear Valley frame and I'm going to put some rigid Exotic forks on it. The original sus forks (Manitou Magnums) apparently measured 445mm A2C and had 76mm travel, so I figure I should get some 42.5mm AtC rigids (accounting for 20% sag). Will probs use a canti on rear wheel and cabled disc on the front. Please tell me if this sounds wrong!
As I'll need to acquire everything I need, I figure this is a good moment to make an informed groupset choice. Unfortunately, while I love bikes and the World at large... I don't know much about this.
I've been looking at the SRAM GX as a middling set, apparently more robust than the SX Eagle.
Budget-wise I'm looking to spend under £300 (ideally much less, but I think it's not worth scrimping here). I want it to be as light as possible (as this bike can potentially be pretty light -- (frame is around 2kg, forks 0.7) -- but also get me up the climbs under load. I'm not an SRAM fanboy... equally happy with Shimano. The choice seems a bit bewildering, so here I am.
Also, there are guys on AliExpress selling SRAM sets with the serials scratched off.... I imagine this is a thing to be avoided... but it is interesting.
Cheers all!
Nice one, thanks 🙂
I'd personally go for a 10 speed groupset with a double chainset and a "normal" (i.e. 32t or 34t) cassette. There must be loads of lightly used or NOS parts kicking about on ebay, I imagine you could put something together for half your budget.
It might also be cheaper to buy a pair of second hand rim brake wheels, than looking for a rim brake rear/disc front. I'd probably keep my eyes peeled for a different frame though, the Bear Valley is likely fine, but you could find something more suitable for very little outlay.
I have to admit, I am slightly enamoured with the simplicity of single chainring thing. It's quite possible to make a 1x10 setup with older parts... but seems to me worth making a little more outlay for a well-matched drivetrain with the big range.
That said, this might just be my consumerist tendencies... which are what I'm attempting to avoid with this build :p Any recommendations on where to source NOS? Ebay seems pretty pricey for parts at the mo'.
I'm also a little unsure about the microspline freehub and which hubs I could attach it to (can I attach it to any hub that accepts the older Shimano freehubs?)
Would but up for hearing suggestions on frames.... the Bear Valley was cheap, is the right size for me and isn't too heavy for a chromoly... pretty sure I want to stick with steel for this bike, which is going to be touring and pretty heavy utility.
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I recently opted for the Shimano 12s XT groupset, having come from a 3x9. I'm not a fan SRAM generally, and so stuck with Shimano. So glad I did, the shifting performance on the new 12s (XT and SLX) is epic, best I've ever ridden.
The SLX fits your budget, just make sure you go with the full package including Shimano chain and cassette, you won't get the full benefits of it otherwise and some that skimp here often run into issues with it not working correctly.
There are some decent hills on the GB Divide route and I'm guessing you'll be carrying some luggage and looing at reasonably long days. For that I'd run a 2x drivetrain.
Thanks guys.
I'm looking at the full package from Merlin, which seems a good deal given the Deore set that's just been released is about the same price.
@Scotroutes, would you run the 2x for the higher speeds on the flat and downhills? When I look at the SLX 1x I see a max 0.6:1 ratio... so I figure climbing won't be the issue. We will have luggage, though not too much...sleeping in hedges and the like. I am a little concerned I won't be able to get a high enough speed on flats though, with the best offered by a 32t chainring being 3.2:1
I'm looking for recommendations for hubs to build wheels around. I'm new to the 10 and 15mm axles. Any opinions on building around something like the SLX M7110 Rear Hub and then either using the pretty pricey DT Swiss conversion to make it QR compatible / using a cheapo adaptor that reduces the effective inner diameter of the hub to accept a QR skewer?
TBH it sees, like your trying to build up an almost 20 yr old old frame around modern standards. Your rear wheel will be 135mm QR. Since than rear hubs spacing has gone to 142mm and now 148mm (boost). I’m not sure what hubs are made in 135mm QR that will take microspline (which is a new shimano standard). For SRAM GX and above you need an SD driver free hub. 135mm QR hubs are most likely going to be the ‘old’ shimano standard. You can still get 11 or 12 speed cassettes for these but will be older generation shimano, SRAM NX (heavy) or Sunrace etc.
If you are set on building this frame With 1x I’d be looking at the previous generation XT or STX with the 11-46 cassette, there must be some bargains around still on full group sets and this will build onto an older standard hub.
Other option (given that it seems that you’re starting with the frame, is look for something more modern second hand, which hopefully has some useable wheels etc and will probably end up being cheaper and better.
When you have to get all the other components, I'd abandon the frame, and get something that will take a rear disc, at least.
Hey, thanks all for your help.
I was aware of boost, but not the 135-to-142 change. (Now I understand Surly's clever dropout designs!)
I'll have a look out for some newer frames or perhaps just go full older tech and try to ignore the urge to get the new thing (on the two-decades-old frame!)
I’m not sure what hubs are made in 135mm QR that will take microspline (which is a new shimano standard).
Shimano make a 135mm spaced, QR, microspline hub for 30 quid!
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-fh-mt500-center-lock-rear-hub-135mm-847093
Perfectly possible to upgrade those older bikes to 12 speed and a 10-51 cassette!
^^^^^. That's told me then!
Anyhow, my point still stands that it's a lot of new kit being bought to revive an old frame when it would probably be more cost effective building up a newer frame unless the old frame is an absolute diamond. I also agree with Aidy about getting something disc compatible. The extra braking power will be appreciated, especially if carrying a load.
For a limited budget, I'd definitely go for a slightly more modern frame and 9/10 speed over 12 speed.
Can you even buy decent 26" rims with braking surfaces any more?
Try selling the frame as others on here have suggested. retro bike forum will be a good place to sell. If you decide to keep the Marin retro bike would also be a good source of retro advice.
Echoing others on here though you are currently mixing old and new standards. I would strongly recommend getting a 2nd hand frame that will accept more modern standards, will almost certainly perform better and will be future proofed with regards to the availability of parts.
Hey, thanks for all your advice.
My basic intentions had been to build a 12-speed chromoly utility/tourer similar to some of Surly's offerings but for much less. I figured a decent but older frame could be paired with a new drive train superior to the likes of the Bridge club (SRAM SX Eagle) for quite a bit less.... lacing my own wheels and using 2nds or older parts etc. I figured mechanical disc on the carbon fork I got cheap for stopping power could be combined with calipers on the back (both apparently have the same pull distance). Or, failing that a local framebuilder might weld a mount on for me.
Other than having slightly narrower dropouts and no disc mounts, is there a reason the 2001 Marin would perform worse than a more modern frame? (I'm unlikely to be doing anything particularly full on with this bike, other than loading it up and smashing along bridleways).
Perhaps daft, but it seemed a better route than dropping money I don't really have on a new bike..plus (and mostly) I like the project.
I think you're all on the ball though. The logical route is to only use old tech on the old frame and save the ol' spondoolies. That said, I'm not known for being overly logical!