[Closed] Pedal stuck in carbon crank

Impact wrench?

And are you DEFINITELY turning ti the right way....

Freeze spray and leverage...

My xos were murder for it

You'll never get enough leverage from a normal Allen key - hardened steel bit and a 18" breaker bar. You might be able to do it with the crank installed - pointing towards the front wheel- fit breaker bar facing forwards. Put one foot on the pedal and pull-up with two hands whilst pressing down with the foot.

Anybody here on "the funny side to bike mechanics" page on Facebook...?

There was a guy who'd had this problem on there, decided heat was the answer... Predictable results ensued!

So... DO NOT HEAT IT UP!

Another "are you sure you're turning it the right way" question I'm afraid... Cos as a shop owner, I've seen far too many people who were dead sure, and I've had to fix their problem once they'd messed it up! Pays to be sure... For sure... 😉

But other than that, as above, 8mm hex impact socket and a breaker bar... It'll come loose, trust me!

Use an old seatpost or anything you can find that's similar as a leverage bar, slide it over the allen key and make sure you are undoing the pedal the right way

To undo you should be turning the thing towards the back of the bike. That means clockwise on the left side.

Turn the bike upside-down. Set the crank horizontally and fit the Allen key in the end of the spindle, wiggling it to ensure it's fully home. Set it alongside parallel to the crank so that downward force goes out and back, if you see what I mean. Then welly it with a mallet.

I mean it's a race face carbon crank so it is going to die anyway, why not just put it out of it's misery in a controlled and predictable manner

Piece of metal pipe over the end of the allen key as an extender.

A concern is that too much brute force damages the threaded insert in the crank. Therefore in addition to the force applied we can reduce the force needed through using penetrating lubricants and the judicious application of heat or cold. I would immerse the end of the crank in a thin oil for a day or two, then blast the pedal axle with cold spray and unscrew using a long lever with some impact applied if necessary. Pedals unscrew opposite from the direction of travel and pedaling.

My experience was heat, leverage and strength managed to remove the pedal AND the threaded stainless steel insert from an alloy crank. Wrecked crank.

I once had a pedal where the axle had split from one of the "points" of the allen hex. With the result that as you twisted the allen key it opened up the crack and the harder you twisted the tighter it got. I ground two flats on the exposed part of the axle and it came out quite easily.

Worth checking for?

I suppose if you heat an alloy crank with a steel insert you risk the crank eye expanding around the insert whilst the steel insert and axle remain stuck together. Similarly, heat might weaken the glue in a carbon crank releasing the insert. Cold spray on the axle should be safer.

You've already used penetrating fluid on it?. Ideally laying the arms flat, with the rear side facing up, then building up a lip around the outside diameter of the axle\insert (out of bluetac\silicon sealant or something) so you can let a pool of penetrating fluid sit overnight and hopefully work through the threads.

And remember, WD40 is not a penetrating fluid.

Yeah. should be KY shouldn't it?
we've probably all made that mistake, eh?

As they all said, be sure you're turning the right way (bearing in mind that the allen key's in the "back" of the crank, so what you might expect is clockwise with a pedal spanner becomes anticlockwise and vice versa

Regular Allen keys are too springy. Even if you put a spanner on them to extend them, it's hard to get enough force on them. Hitting them with a hammer doesn't achieve anything because the spring in the Allen key just absorbs the shock. You need a proper 1/2" breaker bar and hex bit to get enough torque on it.

I've got the same issue. Shimano SPDs stuck in RaceFace Cranks (despite copper grease on threads) - both sides! 🙁 Apparently a very common issue? I've had an allen key in the vice with the pedal on it and turned the crank for leverage. Still wouldn't budge.

I'm just leaving as is and greasing the pedals regular. When they are eventually sh*gged I will be in a get 'em out or bust situation so might try more extreme force!

Drill the axle out, start with small drill and work up, it will start to loosen off before you get to the threads.

Thanks guys. I will buy some penetrating fluid this weekend and get a lend of a breaker bar, fingers crossed that will get the b4stard out!

Once got an Xtr pedal stuck in a carbon xx1 crank arm... nothing I tried would work... nothing....

Bought a new axle and crank arm in the end, the two are still fused together to this day, I keep trying after several years.... I've had them in a vice with a 1m breaker bar and freeze spray... I stop when i can see things bending for fear of being killed by the impending shrapnel 😧

But other than that, as above, 8mm hex impact socket and a breaker bar… It’ll come loose, trust me!

On my Brendogs (and the other set of DMR Vaults I own) that would be a neat trick as the hex is 6mm.

Yes. 6mm is an issue that reviewers should mention. In my experience, in any crank, anything other than fresh grease before each fitting means it is touch and go whether they'll come out again. With breaker bar I have had 6mm bits snap explosively on me. I have had one long allen key snap on me putting me in fear of getting the jagged sharp end of it in an artery or eye. On top of which the bearings are shyte and fail to stand up to a month from fresh before they're audibly in need of servicing.

*I* *hate* *these* *pedals*. Overpriced garbage (that I bought twice).

Note to self. Remove pedals on best bike whilst it is laid up over winter and grease them again.

You could try freezer spray on the axle. Wrap some tape around the crank to insulate it and spray the exposed axle by the pedal.

Shocking it out would be better than brute torque as the latter is more likely to destroy the carbon crank. Only shock in one direction - don't try and wiggle it back and forth as this will be worse for the bonding.

If they are in warranty then JRA will be an acceptable excuse for when they break...

How tight are you guys dong your pedals up?!

When I have 2 bikes going in the car I remove the pedals for the journey,  Tend to grease them every so often but not religiously.  Only nip them up - never lean on the hex wrench or spanner.  Never had one come loose in ANY way.  They take a bit of effort to undo, so I'm happy that they are tight enough.

Only nip them up – never lean on the hex wrench or spanner

This.

They self-tighten anyway, so you just need to nip them up gently.

I've seen people put loads of torque on as though they are worried they're going to come undone. Coming undone is never the problem.

Drill the axle out, start with small drill and work up, it will start to loosen off before you get to the threads.

Get a grown up do this for you 🙂

I reckon a saddle post on an Allen key may work but your likely to tear the inseert out if you overdo it or heaven forbid do it the wrong way

I'm in this situation but with a set of mk1 v8s on some square taper FSA afterburnerd, so at a slightly lower budget!
I'm currently at the stage where the steel insert is spinning. I think it might be time to replace everything.

Park pedal Allan key, bike upside down, pedal at 45 degrees. Insert key facing minus 45 degrees and apply sharp bacwards force is down towards chain stay. Make sure key is well seated first. Never fails.

Heat some ATF (automatic transmission fluid) up in a pan, doesnt have to be bubbling just hot.
Whack some freeze spray on the joint between the pedal and crank then pour a little of the above over the joint and leave for a while(overnight) to penetrate.

Then have a go with a socket and breaker bar.
ATF is a old school mechanics trick for unseizing engines and parts.

I really wouldnt be put putting hot oil in contact with any adhesive or resin unless you are sure it's safe.

Park pedal Allan key, bike upside down, pedal at 45 degrees. Insert key facing minus 45 degrees and apply sharp bacwards force is down towards chain stay. Make sure key is well seated first. Never fails.

Was going to say.. What sort of quality Allen key is it op?
I had a similar problem, albeit metal cranks, ended up buying a long park P-handle 8.mm key.. You can tell there's a lot less/no flex and its a much better fit than the one I was using which was part of a cheapish toolkit .. Turned an impossible job into a pretty easy job.