Ordered some new sliding dropouts for my 2008 P7 this week. Stripped the thread on the old ones trying to tighten them up on the trail.
Fitted them this evening - and they're noticeably thicker than the originals, and also have a cut out with a third nut and bolt that I don't need on the disk side.
Looking [url= http://www.orangebikes.co.uk/components/ ]here[/url] beginning to think they've given me 2009 ones.
I had to ease the dropouts apart a bit to get the wheel in, but all seems to work. Or is using these in my 2008 frame a no-no?
Have a look on Orange's website under 'components' and all will be revealed!
From what you've described it sounds as if you've got the 2009 version 'though.
Dropout spacing should all be the same at 135mm, so there's no reason they shouldn't work ok.
they are much better!
Yeah, the Orange web site is where I ordered them from. I'll ring next week.
My dropout spacing is now a few mm less than 135mm - as the material used for the dropouts they sent is thicker. Wheel only goes in if you ease the rear triangle apart.
Better MrNutt? In what way? 'cos more material?
stronger, the old type are made of cheese, had one break, replaced it with the new one, I think the tighter fit also helps stop the sliding problem the old ones suffered from occasionally.
I don't want to sound critical but that sounds like crap tolerances on Orange's part. Irrespective of year/model they all should be exactly 135mm. Maybe worth quizzing Orange when you call next week?
To be honest, they've faffed around with these dropouts for ages and still they don't seem right. The 2010 model still uses M6 bolts which don't seem man enough for the job. Instead of triangulation, why not just use M8 like Paragon and others?
Best of luck chap.
Yeah, think the dropouts are the P7s achilles heel.
My originals were fine for a couple of years, but the disk brake side started slipping under heavy braking - which needed regular tightening up until I stripped the thread a few weeks back (was getting fed up with it).
Not sure the difference in the thickness of these is poor manufacturing - they look thicker on purpose. Perhaps the spacing between where the dropouts mount is slightly wider on the newer frames (if you see what I mean) resulting in 135mm.
Good point. To get a definitive on that one you'd need to compare your frame's spacing (without dropouts) to a 2009 or maybe 2010 model to see if there's a difference.
Did you order 2008 dropouts? If so, it sounds like Orange have supplied you with what they've got in stock (or currently in production) rather than necessarily the correct model.
I'm sure your conversation with them will resolve any issues. They've always been very helpful when I've 'phoned.
I did the same as you (stripped dropout), spoke to a guy at orange and he sent me the thicker dropouts with advice to drill out the rack mount on the disc side for the third bolt, use torque wrench to tighten and use threadlock. Never budged since. The dropout is designed thicker so you need to spread the frame a little when putting wheel in.
Drill my frame? 😯 I get nervous hanging a picture.
Used threadlock and my torque wrench last night. Out of interest, what torque did they recommend? Set mine to 8Nm, which is my usual for alloy components.
I think it was 9NM IIRC, the drilling was no big deal, use a sharp bit and you cant go wrong- youre only enlarging the hole thats already there
Och...arse!
I'm so close to ordering a P7 frame as it seems to suggest longevity and adaptability, but this chat is sowing seeds of doubt.
Should I leave it or live with it?
Im no expert, but i'd buy another. Might not if i was wanting to move the dropouts tho.
I think the new drop outs sorted the problem to be honest, If I was after another HT then it would be between the P7, a cotic or the sweet as hell bluepig
The dropouts on the 2010 P7 are solid in my experience, they haven`t budged. Worth getting the SS specific drive side dropout though if your running SS, comes with bigger bolts so you can tighten up much more.
Well, so far so good. Easy local loop (Crooksbury Hill/Tilford/Hankley/back home) just to ease the bike (and me) back in.
Enough rattly descents to shake down the rear end a bit, and nothing budged.
Beer and tinker a bit this afternoon. Need to re-adjust my rear mech properly (did it in a rush last night), as it's all moved a bit due to the different dropouts.
MikeT, up to a few months back, had no issues at all, P7 seemed bombproof. I would have recommended it to anyone.
Then all of a sudden, the non-drive side bolts seemed to just lose the ability to stay done up, even though they were threadlocked and not overtightened. Then all it took was a few grumpy ham-fisted trail-side adjustments with a multitool to kill them off!
Think I'll hold off the extra bolt for now and see how I go. From the pics of new P7s, looks like they have this as standard, so guess new frames may not suffer so much from this.