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How do you determine the 0 point for preload? I'm decided I should see what all the hoo-ha was about and jump aboard the latest band waggon so find my self faffing with a coil shock for the first time. I'm fairly sure I'm at the upper limit of the coil I've got on it, that in itself isn't the end of the world as I can borrow a heavier one and if I'm honest I don't think I'm keen on how it plays and I'll probably go back to air.
However in order to form a valid opinion I'm trying to set the preload appropriately and get a decent indication of how a coil plays on the bike, so far so easy.
Set preload between 0 and 2 turns max, should be very very simple, but where the hell is 0 turns? The difference between in a) contact with the spring b) preventing vertical play and C) loaded enough the coil no longer rotates independently of the preload adjuster* is about 6 bloody turns, which is about 3/4 of an inch so a lot of additional load.
So is there actually a proper reference point for 0 or do I just have to guess? (several skims of the dhx2 manual reveal nothing beyond, set to 0 then...)
*more to the point this is the amount of load required so the adjuster ring doesn't move on its own when not additionally loaded, which seems the sensible "0" to me.
I would say preload would equate to how much the spring is being compressed by the lock ring. Therefor if you tighten it so it touches but doesn’t compress that would be zero? I just tighten mine until it doesn’t rattle then swap spring rates until it feels good. Probably not the right way!
doesnt matter so much
coil is linear
at full suspension extension, wind the preload adjuster to contact the spring, then an extra 1-2 to prevent rattle etc
As loose as it can be without rattle, basically.
As mentioned above, just enough to stop rattle. My springs will all move up and down a little when the bike is unweighted. When the bike is loaded (with fat ass) the spring does not move against the pre-load collar.
If you get the spring weight right, on the bike with a good suspension curve, you'll be unlikely to go back to air.
turn the ring until it touches the spring (no rattle) and give another 1/2 turn.
My zero point for preload is the point at which the spring doesn't rattle between the spring collars.
The spring will spin on the collars, dont worry about that.
Well at least there is some sort of consensus!
Yep, just tight enough so it's not loose, then another half/one turn. Simples!
One great test you can do with an coil shock to show their suppleness, is to press on the seat with your little finger, you should be able to move the suspension a few mm. Try that with an air shock!!
One great test you can do with an coil shock to show their suppleness, is to press on the seat with your little finger, you should be able to move the suspension a few mm.
The issue comes when the leverage means you could do the same at 80% of travel though!
The issue comes when the leverage means you could do the same at 80% of travel though!
Yes, if your bike had some kind of massive falling rate linkage. Which none do.
Yes, if your bike had some kind of massive falling rate linkage. Which none do.
My 1998 Marin Team DH says hi... 😀
My 1998 Marin Team DH says hi… 😀
Hah, well yes.... historically there have been exceptions to that rule. Marin bikes seem to be an exception to most of them at some point.