[Closed] Non boost wheels in a boost frame

No need for any re-dishing. I just put a spacer kit from velosolo off ebay on (2 in dropouts and 1 behind disc) and off i went. easy peasy

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382490554480

I have re-dished mine and put all 6mm spacers on the nds. Shifts perfect. A re-dish is pretty simple. Especially if the wheel is good to start with.

if you put two spacers on the non drive side and don't redish the shifting will be fine but the wheel will be off centre.

Re-dishing is actually really simple though

The main decider ime is gearing.
Shimano I find was fine with spacers both sides and no redish. Sram was not as the mech wouldn't move far enough inboard to reach the top of the block.

Personally I'd put 5mm either side on the front and no redish. I'd put 6mm on the nds and redish the rear.

My LBS quoted me £90 for a redish!
Have used spacers and redish and no problems with either.

Depending on how tight the money is, I would recommend the official Hope end-cap conversion route if you don't mind re-dishing, a bit less faff than having separate spacers.

The methods which involve re-dishing will give you more even spoke tensions both front and rear, which in theory results in a stronger wheel. Well, certainly a thing worth having on the rear IME.

If you run spacers each side on the rear, you will/may need to run a non-boost chainline. Many boost frames cope with this, but with some you might find chainring/frame issues depending on the size of your ring.

I have only tried "no dish" rear spacing with 10 speed and it shifted fine with that.

@greyspoke, I’m pretty sure the ‘proper’ hope end caps are offset/redish on the front and symmetrical/no redish on the back.

I’ve both, they both work fine. I’ve also used a spacer kit on the front hub without a redish. That also works, for the slight extra faff of longer bolts and taping the 5mm spacers to the normal ones.

Biggest decider for me would be- do you want to swap the wheels between boost and non boost bikes? If yes, don’t get a redish adapter. Otherwise, just get the proper hope ones, they’re the easiest to live with. There really isn’t that much in it though.

Side notes
- if you’re aiming for a lightweight xc wheel I built up a crest with the offset spacer on the front and had near perfectly balanced spoke tension which seems like a plus.
- if you have a torque cap fork hope now do their boostifying front spacers in torque cap. Minor thing, but stopped me swearing enough to be worth an upgrade- recommended.

zippykona

My LBS quoted me £90 for a redish!

Mine charged 15 euro. You might want to try elsewhere.

My LBS quoted me £90 for a redish!

Mine charged 15 euro. You might want to try elsewhere.

Likely the fuel cost of travelling from gbp to eur will offset that though, then there will have to be a thread on here about how much vat and duty zippy owes on a wheel he already owned but took to the EU for redishing, whether he needs to pay in both directions and claim it all back afterwards from each or just as he returns to UK.

If its a sram rear mech check the limit screw can handle the extra 3mm, depends on the frame and hanger I suppose, I've used the Hope conversion kit with shimano and with the chainline around 50mm, no probs, but if I had to re-dish I'd go for boostinator instead of loose spacers.

I've done it both ways. Putting the spacers non-drive side and re-dishing is better in my opinion.

Had some chainline and shifting problems when running a spacer either side. A 46t cassette was just about ok, but couldn't get the shifting right on a 50t for some reason.

I was just being lazy, and re-dishing didn't take long at all.

Not a fan of redishing wheels it wouldn't recommend it get the mrp kit for the front and get the genuine hope one for the rear it's plug and play

I've got both the velosolo kit and some of the redishey type and basically, the redish approach is obviously a bit more work to do, but the velosolo washers are a pain in the arse when fitting/removing the wheel. So do you prefer your hassle in one up front dose, or in small recurring attacks?

The velosolo's great if you switch wheels between bikes though and for that reason I've ended up preferring it despite its inelegance

Re-dishing is actually really simple though

Yes, if you both know what you're doing and the spokes are long enough...

Mine charged 15 euro. You might want to try elsewhere.

When, in 1985? Seriously how can any retailer make a living if only charging 15 Euro's.

Front's are easy, if the boost kit is basically swapping out both R/L spacers and adding a rotor spacer.

Rear's are harder as the drive side needs to stay in the same place so it's a double spacer on the non-drive side and a rotor spacer - this is when a re-dish is required, otherwise you're riding a 'pi55ed' bike.

To be fair, redishing is one of the easier wheel alignments, so 90 quid is a bit of a joke, a competent wheelbuilder would have it redished in 20 to 30 minutes, unless it was pretty out of true to start with.

I'd avoid the 3mm spacers either side, as others say, you end up saving the redishing, but at the cost of the wheel/frame alignment, plus it's a pain if you remove the wheels often, such as putting in or on a car.

Not a fan of redishing wheels it wouldn’t recommend it get the mrp kit for the front and get the genuine hope one for the rear it’s plug and play

+1 - that's exactly what I did, MRP front, Hope rear. Works fine. No redishing needed, though it's not a hard thing to do anyway ime.

intheborders
Free Member

Rear’s are harder as the drive side needs to stay in the same place

Not really. I mean, yes there's an ideal location for the cassette for driveline etc but it's 4mm difference, so less than shifting front chainring.

I have run the velosolo adapter front and rear and they are spot on although I haven't had to change anything whilst elbow deep in crud and with freezing hands then I could see the spacers being a problem
Saying that i ended up biting the bullet and buying a boost wheelset but honestly couldn't tell the difference