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For some time I've not been able to get genuine chainrings for my Race Face Deux XC crankset(which I have on 2 bikes).
This is pretty annoying, but I guess that's how it is. I mostly use a Cotic Soul for Cross Country. I fancy putting a power meter of some sort(probably the Rotor In Power. Looks like it means going from a 9 speed to a 12 speed, with a single chainring at the front, and something like 11 - 50 cassette at at the back.
I don't know if that cassette will fit on my Hope Hubs or not.
This looks like I'll need new cranks, new chainring, new chain, new cassette, new 12 speed shifters, and new 12 speed derailleur.
So that's a pretty big bullet to bite. Not only that, but I cycle canal banks on this bike quite often, but have some road riding to do on my way to and from where I'm riding. Some of it is downhill. I'd have no chance to pedal downhill with something like 30 tooth front and 11 rear.
I'm just worried that if I go to the trouble of doing this, I'll end up with something not as good as what I have(apart from the power meter).
Can someone explain why the single chainring at the front is better - and comment whether it would still be a benefit to me?
Any advice on power meters for mountain bikes?
Just seems like a fix for something that wasn't broken to me.
I’d have no chance to pedal downhill with something like 30 tooth front and 11 rear.
I'm guessing 26" wheels, in which case you won't want a 30t chainring, probably a 34t or even 36t.
I don’t know if that cassette will fit on my Hope Hubs or not.
Depends on the Hub, they now make a Shimano Microspline and SRAM XD freehub for the pro2 so you've got an older XC or Bulb hub.
10-50 or 10-52 isn't quite the same as a triple, but how often do you actually meaningfully pedal 44-11? At 80rpm that 26mph, fast enough that you'd probably be almost as quick just tucking in and getting aero downhill. The short answer is no, you won't miss the high gears.
If you do the maths on the power requirements, then even a relatively gentle hill at sensible speeds is doing 1500W+ of work for you via gravity, and working against you via air resistance. That's why even at the TDF the "good" descenders are only gapping the peloton by 30s on a 15-minute descent, even if the peloton are just coasting. The aero gains of the group trump any amount of pedaling (albeit they're consistently doing 40mph+).
Just seems like a fix for something that wasn’t broken to me.
So just buy some aftermarket chainrings for the triple. Stronglight still makes them.
Can someone explain why the single chainring at the front is better
It's only better if you have a cassette with the range to replace the double or triple ring setup up front, plus a narrow-wide chainring and clutch derailleur. It gives clearance for wider tyres and bigger wheels and eliminates all the hassles with shifting on the front, plus you can put a dropper post lever where the left-hand shifter used to be.
I'm still running 2x and 3x on my bikes using XT cranksets, some 9 speed, one 10 speed, one 11 speed. Personally, I find a 28-38 double up front with an 11-36 9-speed cassette works for what I do. If you're still running 9 speed, maybe something like that would be worth looking at.
Yes, 26" wheels.
Well I do try and get to 30mph on a few downhills. They are Hope Pro2 They have SRAM PG 990 on at the moment(always have had), because of the alloy spider.
I didn't know the cassettes went down to 10.
The riding I do on it now, 99% of distance is done in the middle ring. I guess it would be OK for me to have 34 tooth, since I'd being going from 34 tooth rear to around 50 or so.
The last chainrings I got were some alloy ones off ebay. They've been OK so far (after about 300 miles). They're not pretty though like the Race Face ones were.
if mostly you ride in the middle, assuming its 32t to 34 rear, on a 11-50 you can go to a 38T comfortably. a lot of XC racers run 40T with a 50T cassette.
12 speed you may be stuck to sunrace or the like, cassettes. 11 speed, you'll have more choice for your HG compatible hub. you can get up to 50T 11 speed, but consider what you need and size accordingly.
(chainring/cassette sprocket)*26 will give you gear inches. you can compare what a, say 22-28 is (20.4" gear) in relation to a 36T up front. It would be the same as running a 36T to a 42T sprocket.
if moving from 9 speed, you'll need a new mech, shifter and chain too.
for me, I run 10 speed still, 11-36 with a 34T chainring works quite well, though I've never really likes super spinny gears. did run an 11 speed 11-42, but found I never used the 42.
Thanks all for the info and advice.
I went for a 21 mile country road ride yesterday(I hate it, and do it about once a month to see how I'm doing). I realise that I'd miss the 44 tooth quite a bit.
I guess if I had 10 tooth rear, I could go down to maybe a 40 tooth front.
At the minute though, my current set up suits what I use it for. It's the granny I don't need much.
So while I'm disappointed to not be able to get genuine chainrings for it, I think right now, that the best option for me, is look for a Stages. That means also buying a spindle, as the left crank arm on my Race Face is locked into the spindle.
I had to do the same last year and had similar concerns. I went from a triple to an 1x11 drivetrain using a 34t NW front ring and a SunRace 11-46t cassette, with Shimano XT M8100 shifter and mech. I was really concerned I'd be spinning out and sometimes on the road (generally at the end of a ride) I could do with the 44t, but it's very rare.
Changing to 1x11 was a complete gamechanger for me TBH, no front mech to worry about, saved about 500grams, quieter and much cleaner on the bike. With the SunRace cassette I had a much better spaced range vs. the Shimano variant, plus it's cheaper and I have found very durable. I was able to use this on my old pro 2 hub with the Shimano freehub.
There is a really good website that you can put your gear range in and then you can directly compare with a new set up to see what you might be missing. Try this http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com/ - I was able to work out the gaps before I committed.
I am using 26 inch wheels too!
I still fancy a Power Meter.
I even contacted stages, but there's just no way I can get one with my current setup which has Race Face Cranks.
There's someone selling a 2 x 11 front crankset XTR, complete with Stages Power Meter for £400(he might take less).
Add to that £100 for 11 - 50 cassette, which I think fits my hope hubs. About £40 for a chain, £100 for a new Bottom Bracket. I have a Hope Ceramic right now, but they don't even seem to do ceramic anymore. £160 for a rear derailleur, £60 for front derailleur, £100 for Right Shifters and £60 for left, and we come to about £1000.
Trouble is, I really want one(power meter).
I really like my Race Face Deus XC cranks, but I can't get chainrings anymore(not genuine). I guess I could sell my old stuff and get a bit back.
Quite a dilema.
Seems that's not possible anyway.
My existing crank is about 140mm total width(Q factor I guess).
The Shimano XTR ones are 168mm, which they're quoting as standard. I don't really get it.
OK, maybe I got that wrong. Q factor is the full width of the crank arms where pedals fit.
How can I work out if it will fit my bike?
XTR will be within a mm or two of the Deus, all standard MTB cranks are (except some boost stuff).
140 Vs 168 might be one quoting chainstay clearance and the other quoting q factor.
As a cheap demo you could stick a 38t on the Deus and see how much you actually spin it out in the 11t. That would then give you a baseline for comparing against 34-10.