Slight hiccup - the 170mm OneUp post turned up - I had measured the clearance in the frame but not inserted a post as a test (stupidly and despite using a rigid post hold the frame in the stand).
The Oneup post doesn't go deep enough, it goes to 190mm when I need 230mm, which in turn defeats the object.
There seems to be more space but the post hits what looks like 2 tabs, but they look like off-cuts rather than being there on purpose. But I am not sure actually as there are 2 of them !
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Does anyone know if they are there by accident (I doubt it actually). I guess they may protect from damage as the tube eventually changes shape.
I had exactly this with my carbon Dune. the dropper post wouldn't go in far enough. After lots of swearing in the garage I found if I turned the saddle 90 degrees I could wiggle it in further as the cable connector was at a different angle. then when I turned it back to straight I heard a worrying snapping sound! Whatever was in the way is now gone and my seat post fits....just!
I don't think whatever broke was structural - probably just left over from the moulding process. It seemed a very thin flap of carbon. That's what I'm telling myself anyway!
ndthornton
Very tempted to go for it but it's not the connector thing that is being blocked, it's both sides of the walls. Very tempted to try and snap those things with force but then again it's £1,675 and you can't find them at that money anymore...
My next step was going to be to contact Mondraker to ask how far the seat post is meant to go in...and if mine was out of spec send it back. Having a 150 dropper was a deal breaker for me. I think this piece of information should be available before buying a frame so you can work it all out from the seat tube length. I was certainly surprised it didn't go in further even given the interrupted seat tube.
I don't know how carbon frames are made but leaving excess material in a crucial place like that seems sloppy to me....don't they ream them out (or carbon equivalent process?)
Does anyone know if they are there by accident (I doubt it actually). I guess they may protect from damage as the tube eventually changes shape.
Just a suggestion but do they line up with the intersecting top tube and upper pivot? Are they where it's been glued together and were part of the manufacturing process?
I agree it should be in the specs. It does correspond to the intersection of tubes indeed and the start of a vertical "seam/weld" where the tube gets wider going towards the BB shell. My friend has the same frame in the same size and has a Reverb 150mm all the way in. I doubt those have less than 190mm stack. I have written to Silverfish. I am about to go out and buy a nice round file from Toolstation if I get the all clear as I don't want to return the frame as I bought the last one at that price.
Could the tabs be there to stop a regular post being dropped too far down and damaging the shock?
Could the tabs be there to stop a regular post being dropped too far down and damaging the shock?
There is no hole for the seat tube to fall through into the shock
They could be to stop you damaging the carbon at the bottom but my Dune does not have these and its exactly the same design. The flap of carbon I encountered was pointing vertically upwards - the sides were smooth.
It looks like it could be to do with the interface between the top tube and the seat tube. It they are less then a couple of mm in thickness I would be tempted to file them down as they are unlikely to be structural.
Yes they are probably 1mm.
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It was going so well. No idea how to position the rear mech - it either hits the chainstay (see photo) or putting the tab the other side of the hanger result in an even more impossible position.
Could anyone point where I have gone wrong - is it possible that the frame/hanger is SRAM only or should that make no difference ?
All sorted - the mech bolt came loose.
So the Oneup component 170mm deffo doesn't fit but not due to the tabs but due to clearance - I need another 20mm or so of penetration and it's not there as bending the outer - I'll try the 150mm if they agree to swap...
Main problem is that the existing rear hose is too shorter : I had bought an olive and plunger thingy but what else so I do know in addition to new longer hose ? How do you swap hoses at the caliper ?
Main problem is that the existing rear hose is too shorter : I had bought an olive and plunger thingy but what else so I do know in addition to new longer hose ? How do you swap hoses at the caliper ?
For Shimano XT? Make sure you buy the correct hose with a banjo on the end, just unbolt the old one and bolt the new one on, then cut to length.
Thanks : does that work ? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xtr-m9000-m9020-m987-disc-brake-hose/rp-prod130934
One of the Q&A says "please re-use your original banjo bolt" - is that in line with your explanations bigyan ?
Edit, actually this seems easier: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xtr-xt-slx-alfine-bh90-disc-brake-hose/rp-prod67212?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=Default&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default
Nick, is your hose long enough to go external ?? (Just as an interim?)
Buy two rear hoses... (at discount)... then keep a spare. you can always cut down the rear hose for a front.. sods law is the day you damage a hose you end up paying full price... and waiting.
I always try and leave a bit of slack when fitted as well so if you have to change the olive you don't run out of hose.
Useful if you want to play with bar length or add 10mm of travel etc. (I have one mate who's hose is so tight he can't even play with brake lever angle)
Swapping is pretty easy... you just unscrew the banjo... stick on the new one (not forgetting the little rubber seals come with it)... when you undo it it's actually real obvious...
Cheers Steve. Appreciated. I am probably going to wait until I get the hose this week. My friend has lent me his old Whyte 130 29 in the meantime so not too bad
Bike now completed. Sat on it for the first time having pre-set the shock carefully and a lot of pink liquid gushed out of the shock. Not impressed.
Does anyone know what it could be be and what to do ?
I though those were quality products but the CF bit in the seat tube that obstructed and that I had to file and now this tells me otherwise - are Silverfish a customer friendly company ? I hate the word but I feel like I should get some compensation after spending so much money and not having a product really fit for purpose...Or perhaps the discount reflected the fact this was just an duff frame and shock ? Good job I didn't pay £3k. Still I miss my hardtail lol!
Clearly talking to myself now but it would appear that the shock is second hand. At best.
Pretty shocking as I would not have considered it if I had known that
Send the shock back for warranty. Not a big issue.
what makes you think it's s/h?
This:
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Actually it would have been a big deal for me had the shock been new but now it probably explains why it did what it did after travelling 3 inches in distance indoors. I never noticed until I took the bike outside for the first time today.
Will have an interesting conversation with the supplier on monday. Difficult to guess at what stage of the supply chain this could have happened.
might be s/h might not be. i'm going for ham fisted fitting of the shock (not you) unless you fitted it. My mate did the same to his shock when he got back from a service, it's far enough down on the shaft not to cause issues.
Must be so disappointed!
Hopefully you'll have a good outcome with Silverfish!
Was the pink liquid you mentioned not excess grease just coming out the shock?
Has anymore come out since?
Fox uses red damping oil, float fluid in the air chamber is blue.
If you have issues with a brand new product I would contact wherever you bought it from. Frame issues are not that uncommon, depending on the issues I would request a replacement if unfit for purpose or with cosmetic issues the manufacturer would often offer a discount or free product and the customer could choose.
As you filed the frame without contacting them I dont know what they will say.
Just don’t mention that you filed the frame. No one will probably know. They could be arses if they want to saying the warranty has been invalidated.
I thought it would be excess grease but then at eaxh slight compression more oil comes out. The shock came fitted. I don't see how those marks got there apart from it being in a vice ?
I would find it a bit of a coincidence that I have effectively 3 separate issues (bizarre marks on shock, the shock blows immediately and the seat post thing). It's the last one available in the size anywhere I think. They probably put together any old crap they had, flogged them cheap and hoped for the best. That really gives the brand a great image lol. It's still a very immature industry in terms of customer centricity.
I'll update the thread with the proposed outcom, if any.
I just won't be happy with a shock repair / warranty claim.
OP, stick with it! IME, Silverfish are pretty decent, they sourced parts missing from my Mondy (anti-chain slap rubber protector) and a spare Derailure hanger in very short time without any issues!
When you build a bike from a frame, especially when you are using "non-standard" parts as compared to the OE build they you need to expect the odd issue.
When it's built, you'll soon forget about any of these minor teething problems!
(i'm not going to even try to count how many hrs i spent on my custom XTR/XX1/Di2/SharkCog drivetrain install. I was told it was impossible, but went ahead and did it anyway.... 😉
They probably put together any old crap they had, flogged them cheap and hoped for the best.
They probably didn't and Silverfish are a pretty decent company. I know you're disappointed, but they'll see you right.
I just won’t be happy with a shock repair / warranty claim.
bear in mind that if they can fix they are allowed to offer you that as resolution to the problem, and TBH why wouldn't you, if the shock works after they've sorted it?
They probably didn’t and Silverfish are a pretty decent company. I know you’re disappointed, but they’ll see you right.
I just won’t be happy with a shock repair / warranty claim.
bear in mind that if they can fix they are allowed to offer you that as resolution to the problem, and TBH why wouldn’t you, if the shock works after they’ve sorted it?
For absolute clarity Nick. I bought a new frame and shock.
If you're happy with second hand when you buy new, I have no issues with that. Doesn't work for me though.
All the evidence that I have points towards my theory of grade B parts put together, but if it doesn't then that's even worse, and means they have extremely poor QC.
As I said, it's impossible to say at what point of the supply chain this may have happened : factory ? Silverfish ? Shop ? Someone quite clearly put a dodgy shock in that frame. The only thing I know for sure is that it's not me, as I don't even know how to do that (the fact that it took me 2 weeks to build a bike should be testament to that LOL).
If it's sorted to my legitimate satisfaction then I am sure this will be a distant memory but if not then I'll regret not buying an off the shelf Spectral. No wonder this industry is moving towards a shorter supply chain model....
If the shock is knackered already without having been ridden they should replace or fix. I haven’t bought anything from Silverfish but I have come across them through work and their warranty process seemed pretty good. They’re the sole uk distributor for Mondraker I’d have thought and they’ll be paid by the manufacturer to look after uk warranty claims. Imagine they’ll go back to Fox (who they also distribute for) relating to the shock indirectly or directly.
Fair comment Joe and the sheer fact that SF are also Fox UK helps although my issue is not related to warranty arrangements but to the fact the shock is not new. I genuinely thought I was buying new as no where did it say otherwise in the collateral or invoice.
I have no interest in having a second hand shock repaired under warranty as it shouldn't have been there in the first place.
define "new"
All you know is that there has been a seal failure on the shock. No more, no less.
Send it back, get it fixed, ride it, enjoy it!
(btw, a shock is "second hand" the first time it is compressed, so a new shock becomes s/h the first time you pedal the bike out of the shop, does that stop you riding the bike again? no, of course not! )
What a stupid post. You perfectly know what I mean by new.
Many thanks for the useful and constructive contributions from others though.
Hate to say it, but if it's the "marks" around the eyelet you're complaining about, that's just how they are I'm afraid. Every Fox CTD/DPS/Float X/DPX2 shock I've seen has been the same. It's just how they're finished. Have seen shocks blow before they've even been ridden, not uncommon. Silverfish should warranty the shock, but yeah those "marks" are completely normal and it's in no way a second hand shock.
Some of the marks are probably from fitting around the eyelet etc - I wouldn’t worry about those. Less keen on what looks like a bit of costing missing on he shock shaft - at max compression is that inside the shock seal? That one shouldn’t be there - but it’ll be hard to say if it was done posting tonyou, or whilst in your possession. Tricky.
If the shock is leaking considerable oil / grease I’d think it needs warrantying either way. With a bit of luck they’ll just swap it out for a new one.
Lawma91, I thought that as well,. I thought the OP was referring to the flakes of metal around the bushes?
I don't think it's S/H either but OP is probably pretty disappointed with what's turning into a bit of an epic, and is clearly upset (as would we all I think)
I will compare to another Fox shock and remain impartial about it. There seems to be a mark / line where perhaps the machining stops and the material is therefore "raw". So I will gladly admit it is new. The shop will have it collected to service it although I assume this should be done by SF ?
Taking the emotion and disappointment out of it, it may be that I simply have to accept this is just coincidental and I have been unlucky. I find it difficult however to adjust my expectations down to what remains in my opinion an immature industry in terms of customer care.
If I buy a RS Monarch RT3 in the same size 200x57, does it fit straight in ? Perhaps I could do that and start riding. And then sell the original new/used/god knows shock when it's back from repairs ? How much would I get for it ? £50 or £250 ? I don't know this market but I know I can get the RS shock for £225 and I have never had issues with RS over the past 25 years.
have you spoken to silverfish yet?
OP, just get it repaired, you don't need to buy a new shock, silverfish should be able to sort it out for you.
My contract is with the shop, not Silverfish. The process is for the shop to organise the warranty work with SF I believe hence them asking me to return the shock to them (the shop).
A moot point as the shock bolts are not moving, however much force is applied.
I am not prepared to apply more force even using a longer lever and I don't even know why I would have to do that.
I have just emailed the shop to organise my LBS to do all the work (that shop is also a EVIL dealer so they probably have an account with SF anyway). We'll see what they say but not prepared to take a risk to break something after the hassle I have had so far for no fault of my own.
I really don't care anymore tbh. I was joking about missing my HT. I am not joking now :-).
You won't get a Monarch in there, not with a DebonAir air can at least, the shock shuttle is super tight so only fairly slim shocks will fit. Just get the shock warrantied, if it's completely borked as you say they should resolve it quickly. Kudos for building it yourself, but to be fair I think taking it to the LBS from the start would have been a quicker, less stressful route to take, these issues would have been spotted earlier and it could have been sorted and you could be riding by now.
The 2017 entry level bike using my frame had a Monarch RL but not sure if that's smaller than a Monarch RT3.
Does anyone familiar with my frame know if I should mount my M8000 XT rear mech direct mount or conventional ?
Shifting is poor so hoping it should go direct mount.
Shock is with my LBS who are sending back to supplying shop or SF so fine tuning the bike in a anticipation lol.
I would have thought that a flagship brand new crabon Mondraker would be Direct mount, but nothing would surprise me any longer with this build so who knows! haha
right so, You can modify a direct mount mech to conventional by removing the b knuckle (or link) but I don't know if the opposite is true (ie fit a B knuckle to an older conventional mech to make it direct mount) Seeing as direct mount has been a thing since ohh, 2014? or so, I'd be surprised it you could find a mech old enough to try.
If the mech you have is conventional, and you've said it may be bent anyway, buy a new direct mount one?
