Could anyone help with this please?
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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/cunningphoto/7020963251/ ]City of Bristol-20120327-00032[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/cunningphoto/ ]cunningphoto1[/url], on Flickr
This only happens when the chain is in the two biggest rings and the mech only returns when the gear is changed down either front or back.
Could the chain be to short?
Could the chain be to short?
you think?
also compress the suspension that'll make the chain/mech/dropout very happy
also why are you even riding biggest/biggest?
Thanks. Was just asking as I'm no expert 🙂
Just compressed the suspension and the mech didn't pull back.
also compress the suspension that'll make the chain/mech/dropout very happy
he was being sarcastic, compressing will worsen usually the situation.
Best solution is to get with the times and swap that 44T for a bashguard.
Thanks Sugdenr it was silly of me to ask a question. Not actually my bike but I'll tell him to get with the program and get a bashguard!
Whilst you are at it, tell him not to ride that Genius with lockout on anything rougher than fireroads. Scott dont make it that clear but lots of people end up shearing the top shock bolt which is obviously made by the same people that make the yamaha playdough bolts.
they don't need a bashguard just
a) a slightly longer chain - have a look at parktool.com for how to get the length right
b) some mechanical sympathy - never ride big/big you'll knacker your drivetrain in no time.
Scott dont make it that clear but lots of people end up shearing the top shock bolt which is obviously made by the same people that make the yamaha playdough bolts.
They are indeed rather crappy. Had a not very happy customer in the past as I told him it was bent, and he should get a replacement from a Scott dealer.. It snapped a week later, expensively!
As for the OP problem, is that a medium cage rear mech? Chain is too short anyway.
Nothing wrong with the chain length.
You should never put the grears in the largest sprocket and chainring. Mainly because it'll strain the mech plus the angles the chain has to go across put sideways strain on the chain.
I always figure that it's easier to accidentally find yourself in big-big than small-small, so having a slightly longer chain will prevent an expensive disaster if you're in that gear and hit a big compression. If the chain overtightens then you could easily bend the chainring and cassette, and probably the mech too.. It'll go slack on small-small but so what? It'll change gears no differently otherwise.
Thanks for the advice guys much appreciated.
It'll go slack on small-small but so what? It'll change gears no differently otherwise.
Dont agree, it'll then slap around like a b*******d on the really rough downs and signigicantly increases the risk of suck or jumping. I run my chain as tight as I can get away with, and go 2x9 to minimise how long it has to be first off. I hate all that slapping around, esp. on a Genius where you are constantly worried the rear bolt is about to snap 😯
I digress but, reminds of my old Ducati, once accurately described by a mag review as always sounding like it was about to have a major mechanical event at any moment. I used to ride with one hand covering the clutch at all times just in case, locked rear wheels are not fun esp. at speed, ask Bazza Sheene. It was only when I put ear plugs in and blocked out all the treble engine noises that it sounded OK, then I could enjoy that unique Duke bass exhaust sound.
As said by others, the main issue here is running big-big. IMO you should never go into the last couple of rear rings while in the big at front. Just asking premature wear and mech trouble.