Have two FS's now both running secondhand RS forks - and on both maxles, the made of cheese shoulders are bent back and on their way out - even got my LBS to check and yes need to be replaced, I've dremelled them both - so
I can get the maxle out and the wheel off.
But the cost of a new made of cheese maxle has really irked me 😉
Googled for alternatives - but not had much luck - do the experts here know where you can get a 15mm and 20mm maxle ? That doesn't cost forty bl@@dy quid a pop ?
Fingers crossed someone here does.
XCRacer do some.
Or, I have 2 I don't use which I can sell you for £39.98 😉
How many times have you filed/dremelled them square again?
Can you not just keep doing that for a while (and be more careful when undoing them)?
Si
Never had an issue with mine. they don't need to be done up tight - the screwing in only removes endfloat. the flipping of the lever is what keeps it in place.
I've dremmeled them once and can keep,doing it, but the most recent second hand RS fork purchases with the 20mm axle, that's the one the my LBS had a problem with too, not sure if the issue is with the maxle, or the thread on the fork, but you need to tighten up the maxle "tight" to elimate play in the front wheel, to the extent that it is damn hard to undo.
FWIW I'm relatively mechanically sympathetic and don't over tighten these things.
On my Prophet with the 15mm maxle, it is only the last few punctures where the shoulders have bent, and that's after 2 years or so, and the forks were 3 years old when I bought them. I've had a lot of punctures too, I really should have gone tubeless by now.
£39.98 for the two sounds like a deal 🙂
I had this issue with my new bike. Completely broke the collar recently. My local bike shop went through their 'every axle we've ever taken out of a frame' box and surprisingly few fitted, though even with a read tap lining up the various axles it was hard to tell them apart. In short, be careful what you try to fit!
A saint 150mm fit my threads lovely so I used that with a spacer while I ordered the newest maxle; the ultimate. This ain't cheap but it is a far superior design; no collar or twisty lever at all. Pretty much like a 'proper' QR, really can't see how it's going to fail now
Bl@@dy hell - http://www.xcracer.com/shop/viewproduct.php?productid=347
£70 a pop. My eyes are watering.
walowiz - Member
Bl@@dy hell - http://www.xcracer.com/shop/viewproduct.php?productid=347£70 a pop. My eyes are watering.
But they're soooo purdy!! 😀
But they're soooo purdy!!
They are but I may go for the cheaper maxle ultimate, since there are no alternatives 🙁
Broke a virtually new Ultimate a month or so back!
Went for a Stealth to replace it but I know that's not an option for you unfortunately. 20mm and all.
The ultimate lever can break off, it's a bit delicate. Stealth is a good option for your 15mm.
(tbh I never really understand how people have so many problems with these older maxles though? I had the shoulder-type maxles for years and never any bother, is it not pretty much the equivalent of stripping a screw head by not fitting the driver right?)
(tbh I never really understand how people have so many problems with these older maxles though? I had the shoulder-type maxles for years and never any bother, is it not pretty much the equivalent of stripping a screw head by not fitting the driver right?)
I agree - I've. It had an issue for the last two / three years, then the shoulder buckled whilst I was undoing the maxle the same way I always have. I stopped when I saw it, then dremelled the shoulder straight. Which is working now and the shoulder edge is smooth, but I don't want to be out on the trails and find it's happened again.
The 20mm maxle I refer to may have not been the issue, it might have been the threads on the forks, or something else - as it has to be too tight to elimate all play in the front wheel - it's all working, until you want to remove the front wheel. My LBS had done it all up by hand, but couldn't undo it without the use of a rubber mallet. Don't know if it's the maxle or something else.
I cannot remember how old the lyric forks where when I bought them, or how it all looked when I fitted them.
it depends on how far 'out' the qr is adjusted when you turn the lever. if it's close, the lever rests against the inside of the shoulders (with lots of strength). if it's loose, it pushes on the corners which bend. You can move it in or out, either by using the 3mm (?) allen key, or by pulling the lever in the same direction as the axel and pulling it out a little. this engages the allen bolt, and you can twizzle it tighter before undoing.
You shouldnt have to do this. the design is rubbish, but it does work