[Closed] Lyrics or maybe another frok?

Pike is less stiff than a Lyrik. 2016 model has the Charger damper which isn't as good as the Charger 2.1 (I've ridden both, so not going on hearsay).

Much cheaper to upgrade the damper in your Yari to a Charger 2.1 (£170 from Bike Discount) and possibly the Debonair spring (£38) then you have a 2020 spec Lyrik. If you're worried about bar height just buy a riser bar

JP

The slightly older Lyrik would be a great fork, whilst it might have come out in 2016 it’s only just been replaced

Not sure it’s got high and low speed compression adjust though, just low speed and a sort of 3 way climb switch.

I hate to say it, but they’re better than the Yari.

(Also the Pike isn’t as rigid as a Lyrik, they might both be 35mm but the Lyrik has thicker stanchions)

Yeah - put latest (Charge 2.1?) Lyric damper in the Yari, or even a Charge 2 as a steal from a v2.1 upgrader - its a 2019 or 2020 Lyric now.
Ask Jake at Sprung in FOD.
He's a Lyric fan.
I am linking my Lyric 29 (with charge 2 damper)
Get a riser bar

A lyric select in 170 would be my choice. Give me a call Monday at Bird if you want to talk options.

Totally agree with jjp, plus headset spacers under stem reduce reach, 25mm of spacers = 10mm less reach. I use 5mm spacer under stem with nukeproof 38mm riser.

Higher bar height could be done with a 170mm fork rather than 160 - you don’t want too many spacers under the stem.

Either speak with Ben to see what deal he could do you on a new fork or stick in a 170mm debonair airshaft and see how that goes. If you want it to be plusher after that then pop in a charger 2 or 2.1. You basically have a Lyrik then anyway (what I’ve done on my Aeris 145lt and thre forms are fantastic).

Edit - if you want more bar height after that then get a higher rise bar. I don’t think the Raceface one that came with my Aeris was very high rise and I didn’t like the width or sweep that much.

I have a 2016, had it for two years and never been fully satisfied with it until I had the damper re-worked and the debonair spring put in.

I feel the same about my 2015 pike too.

Take from that what you will.

What was done to the damper?

I would expect you to be happy enough with the charger damper and just upgrade to debonair spring OP.

Bit you won't have high speed compression adjust so it might need a fiddle, as science officer may have had done.

“headset spacers under stem reduce reach, 25mm of spacers = 10mm less reach.”

So does adding 25mm of bar rise if you match the grip position.

I can’t fault the 2019 Lyrik RC2 on my bike. I’m not sure what’s different to the latest version (because as we’re in 2019 the 2019 fork has to be out of date...), it’s got rather confusing!

It depends if you are someone who likes fiddling with suspension to the nth degree or just want an easy set and forget.

If you get the rct3 version of a charger damper you get low speed rebound, and lsc adjust, plus 3 bigger lsc settings.

Rc2 charger loses the large settings but adds hsc as well as low speed.

Personally I like a session playing with suspension settings but I wouldn’t know how to set hsc and I doubt my lsc is optimal as it is.

I’ve got my Yari with debonair and charger 2 to a place where I’m pretty happy with it and feel my rear suspension could do with some more fettling.

Hello. I can't help you with your suspension question but I really want to show appreciation for the excellent typo in your thread title.

Yes, we need photos of you and your froc and suspenders

..while singing a Leonard Cohen song

What was done to the damper?

I had the FAST rebound and compression pistons installed and (obviously) tuned for my weight.

My main gripe was that it always used to choke and stiffen up in chunder. It felt fine on more flow trails and single hits, but was much less composed and harsher when rolling at speed into rock gardens, banks of roots, etc.

I understand from TFtuned that whilst the charger 2 and 2.1 are better from stock than the charger ever was, the nature of their construction means that they are less tuneable for individuals who want to go a step further.

“Personally I like a session playing with suspension settings but I wouldn’t know how to set hsc and I doubt my lsc is optimal as it is.”

I think the Lyrik RC2 is actually really easy to set up, certainly far easier than my DBair shock was.

You start with the LSC and HSC fully open and get your air pressure and rebound feeling good. If it’s diving too much when braking or pumping then add some LSC. If you’re going too deep into the travel on rough stuff or landing drops/jumps then add some HSC. If it starts feeling short of grip after adding LSC then up the air pressure a bit and reduce the LSC. If it feels harsh after adding HSC then add a token and reduce the HSC.

There are only five clicks of HSC so you can’t mess things up. And although there’s more LSC range it’s still a relatively limited adjustment.

Hello. I can’t help you with your suspension question but I really want to show appreciation for the excellent typo in your thread title.

While we’re at it, it’s Lyrik, not Lyric, it’s making my teeth itch. 😬

Ha thanks folks for your advice and apologies for my careless typos!

I don't have any steerer left to play with and I have some riser bars fitted already although not as high as those Nukeproof ones. Last time I shopped for riser bars I couldn't find ones with a really good amount of rise.

The XL Aeris fits me better than any bike I've ever ridden but because I'm long in the leg I feel the bars are maybe a couple of cm's too far down when I'm stood up going downhill otherwise it's spot on. My Yari's came off my old bike so the steerer was already cut.

Would 170mm forks make a big difference to balance and handling of the Aeris? It might be a good option and It would be one less cm of steerer tube sticking up I suppose. If it didn't upset climbing too much. I generally let the forks sag for climbing then add a bit of compression for downhill support anyway.

I’m running 170mm forks and the 160mm link on my Aeris 145 and can’t say I’ve noticed it’s any worse than when it was 160/145. It’s poppier overall and I prefer it. Not been tempted to switch back at all.

Move to a debonair spring with 10mm more travel and you won't notice much difference.

It will sit a bit lower anyway.

Great feedback guys thanks!

Chiefgrooveguru what are you talking about, "so does adding 25mm of bar rise". No it doesn't, higher bars move vertically, check out enduro-mtb.com article by Trev Worsey, if you're going to correct me, be correct. I'm giving good advise. Do your research.

If I was the kind of person who did stealth ads I'd suggest you need a set of barely used (5 rides, poss not even) 170mm Cane Creek Helms...

“Chiefgrooveguru what are you talking about, “so does adding 25mm of bar rise”. No it doesn’t, higher bars move vertically, check out enduro-mtb.com article by Trev Worsey, if you’re going to correct me, be correct.“

I read that article at the time. It’s completely wrong on that front.

Stems have length and rise. Bars have width, rise, sweep and rotation. Steerer spacers can be added or subtracted.

Steering feel (for a given head angle, wheel size and fork offset etc) depends upon the position of the hands vs the steering axis, both laterally (bar width) and longitudinally (effective stem length). These measurements are perpendicular to the steering axis.

If a bar is rotated so that the rise is parallel to the steering axis then adding spacers or changing to a higher rise bar (that’s otherwise identical) will move the grips higher and will not change the steering feel. If the bar rotation places the rise ahead of the steering axis, then changing to a higher rise bar will increase the effective stem length and slow the steering feel.

You cannot keep the same steering feel whilst raising the grips without reducing the effective reach, it’s impossible.

The geometry of all this stuff is quite weirdly 3D and most people misunderstand it.

Hey chief, we are here to help the guy with his problem, my solution is viable thus helpful, loads of spacers will reduce his reach, agreed. A higher bar at roughly same position will solve his problem, let him try it, I guarantee it will help. I know because I've done it and measured, I'm right, the article is right and you must be a real joy to live with. Now go and have a drink and chill.

It's an interesting subject that I've also debated at length with friends. Personally I like to adjust reach and height with the stem and spacers (which I can't because I've run out of steerer) and stick with the bars I'm happy with. I would happily swap out a 40mm stem for a 60mm one if it put me in a better position but that's just me. I find there's just too many variables with bars as listed above and I'm quite fussy about backsweep and stuff like that. Not so keen on retiring my nice carbon bars that feel nice shape etc either.

I was in a similar position, I was running 19mm Raceface sixc bars and felt the front was too low, I'm also long of leg with a short body. Got myself some 38mm rise Nukeproof bars and I'm much happier with the feel of the bike, especially on steeper stuff, drops and jumps.

I agree about having a higher rise bar. I lowered the stem back down the steerer and fitted a 38mm rise bar (up from 20mm) and it definitely has the desired effect. I gained back the reach and didn't sacrifice bar height. This was on an Aeris am160 with 160mm fork.

“I agree about having a higher rise bar. I lowered the stem back down the steerer and fitted a 38mm rise bar (up from 20mm) and it definitely has the desired effect. I gained back the reach and didn’t sacrifice bar height.”

I’m running a 40mm rise bar on one bike and just about to fit one to my other. Long legs seems to prefer higher bars.

If you already like the shape of your bars but need more height without losing effective reach (and your steerer is long enough) then swapping to a longer stem and adding spacers under it will have the same effect.

If i fitted a longer stem it would still have to be at the top of the steerer as it already was. By changing bars I could lower the stem and give myself room for adjustment either up or down to fine tune things.