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Super, Cheers MSP.
I should probably read the entire thread... but anyone recommend a decent, light, not too expensive hub for a XC build? Default would be DT240 but they are a bit pricey.
I'm not one for mentioning work brand stuff, but the EL Guapo /Selcof Pro hubs are bloody good for the money. Jap stainless bearings, 72POE, very good sealing all round and lighter than Hope (just).
DT350 mrblobby?
Superstar Switch Ultra-Lite front is nice and light. Got one on mine and its been fine so far and only £40 http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/switch-ultra-lite-front-hub.htm
I'd get the Switch Ultra for rear. About same weight as Hope Pro 2 evo.
Just seen that polish seller on ebay. Might do 240's after all.
Superstar ones just rebranded Novatec?
Any feedback on the Novatech hubs?
Are they the same as Superstar Tesla? If so i'll opt for something else as I have nowt but issues with the freehub teeth snapping off and damaging the hub body... 3 hubs so far so need another option.
Nova tech hubs. Yeah I had some on my last bike they were branded as Ibis and came fitted as OE on Some of their bikes. Think they were the same as superstar switch. I had no problems with the set I had bearings lasted well.
On to the LB wheels thread. Mine are in order email from Nancy today one is built the other will be done soon.
Spec is 38mm all mountain rims 27.5 on CK hubs.
The hubs I have had for yonks and sent them to LB for them to build onto their rims. Looking forward to a nice wheelset arriving.
Are there no qualified wheel builders in this country?
Qualified ?
Would you trust the bit of paper anyway ?
Ask about find the best one and crack on
Here's my reasoning.
I asked LB for a quote to supply DT spokes and build the wheels. They quoted less than I could by the spokes for in the UK or Germany from Rose etc.
The other big plus was that they put a lot of emphasis on correct spoke tension and the risk of over tensioning spokes.
Due to the stiffness of the rims it's easy to get uneven spoke tension and the wheel still be straight.
My thoughts were, that I was spending a few quid and thought it was probably a good idea to get them to build as they have the most experience with carbon rims. Rather than be the first customer to send a set to be assembled at LBS.
Also if I have a warranty issue LB will possibly feel more sympathetic if they built the wheels.
It was to me, the most cost effective way to own a very nice wheelset
Pro tip, if you buy from LB fully built, go with spokes that are easily available, I've just had an own fault disaster, hangar snapped sending the mech into the wheel, 7 snapped spokes. The pillar aero spokes are expensive and hard to find in the UK, so go with dt spoke if possible, can't fault the LB service though! Very happy with the rims.
Id agree with that, they offered me pillar or DT. After struggling to get mavic spokes in small numbers before for ST wheels, I decided to keep it simple and have DT. They also agreed to send me 3 spare spokes for each wheel.
You can have half Pillar and half DT if you want. Chuck in a single Sapim and ACI too for good measure! Mavic et al are totally different.
Speaking of spokes for a light XC wheelset. Much benefit in going for bladed (like CX-Ray) over round (like Revs)?
I have just gone bladed on my second LB wheelset, I did it for the aesthetics but there is supposedly some advantage in stiffness under braking/drive. The guy who builds my wheels also likes building with them as he can stop the twisting when winding up the spoke tension.
Depends on the 'blade', some are aero, some are just squashed and offer no aero advantage over a normal butted spoke, but weigh more (because they're not butted).Speaking of spokes for a light XC wheelset. Much benefit in going for bladed (like CX-Ray) over round (like Revs)?
Somewhere (google it) there's some windtunnel/CFD work of a whole lot of spokes. IIRC all bar the most expensive bladed spokes were worse or no better than than the butted spokes.
Depends on the 'blade', some are aero, some are just squashed and offer no aero advantage over a normal butted spoke, but weigh more (because they're not butted).
I'd probably go cx-ray or aerolite, i think they are butted spokes that are then flattened. I think DT Swiss claim the flattening actually strengthens the spoke.
Somewhere (google it) there's some windtunnel/CFD work of a whole lot of spokes. IIRC all bar the most expensive bladed spokes were worse or no better than than the butted spokes.
I'll try and dig that out. Wonder if there's much benefit in rotational resistance?
Do these rims come with staggered spoke holes and/or angled drilling?
I'm about to order a pair of 26"x33mm all mountain hookless rims and this question suddenly occurred to me and is kinda holding me back.
Alternatively do I need to think less and just order? 😯
When I bought fat bike rims there was a choice - what does their site say?
Although my 35mm alu rims have standard drilling.
Mine have arrived. They lol very nice. Quality looks good, finish is really nice. Very well packaged let's hope the reliability is as good and all will be well
wwaswas - Member
When I bought fat bike rims there was a choice - what does their site say?Although my 35mm alu rims have standard drilling.
I can't see anything on their site, plus I reckoned it would be quicker to ask on here...
Any advice on spokes?
Looking at getting a set of the 650 hookless rims built on to DT Swiss hubs and not sure what spokes to go for. The wheels will be used for a bit of everything but mainly trail riding in the Peak District etc.
Was thinking DT Super Comp? Any other suggestions?
I went for the DT spokes. Available from most bikes shops the alternative were pillar aero (I think) there not as easy to get hold of if you damage a few.
Got my pair built with DT Swiss spokes and Hope hubs by 18 Bikes who did a first class job. Just bought another set of rims in Black Friday sale so will be having these built up the same.
Tracey, are the rims in a sale then? I can't find any mention on their site or elsewhere.
A saw on another forum they have a new rim coming out with a more in-between width 27/28mm internal irc. So that will be another wheelset next spring for me. It also had an asymmetrical cross section, I wonder how that will build up, especially on the rear wheel where most hubs seem to be pretty dam close to centering the rim between the flanges anyway.
I also believe they are dropping all the other product lines and just sticking to rims from now on.
My AM spec rims are 27mm internal, 33 external.
Took delivery a few months back. Mine are symmetrical though.
You get more options once you start emailing to enquire and spec up.. The site doesn't show all options iirc.
Got them from Bird MTB
I'd opt for DT spokes and brass nips if buying again, just had my back wheel rebuilt locally in DT with brass nipples as I originally had pillars with I presume ally nips.. Rear mech accident snapped a few and by the time the repair guy could get more pillars it was less hassle just to redoo the whole wheel on DT.
Ta Tracey 🙂
Hers mine fitted tonite look great
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Quick question, is anyone still buying the 35mm 650b rims?
I'm trying to decide on rims for general trail riding (Peak District, Welsh trips etc) and not sure weather to go 35 or 38mm or stick with alu DT Swiss rims (XM481/EX481 combo).
Any input appreciated!
I got the 35mm 650B rims, not got much milage on them at the moment due to the poor weather, look awesome though. I'm really looking forward to getting out some more and testing them!
Another Peaks rider here been running a 35mm one on rear of 29er for last 6 months, very pleased with strength, weight and width. They make tyres look huge and you may need to check tyre clearance on your frame if you run wider than 2.3-2.4. I wouldn't want the 38mm wide as they're overkill for trail riding IMHO.
Almost 13 stone fully kitted, just a few slight scratches so far and it's taken some pretty rocky descent abuse.
I went with DT comp and brass nipples for strength and ease of availability of spokes.
I wouldn't want the 38mm wide as they're overkill for trail riding IMHO.
they are 32mm deep though, which is aesthetically a lot nicer (imho)
The AM 27mm internal width, external 33mm width are also 30mm deep, so not a massive difference in terms of how they look.
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It would seem that 38's could be pushing the limit for 2.3-2.4 tyres.
If you intend to ever run anything less the 35 may be the better bet. You could use the weight saved to up the build of the rim.
26" rim though that
Thanks for the responses.
I've spoken to LB via email and they said the 35mm unless I'm an aggressive rider, then I should go for the 38mm.
To be honest, I've got no idea if I'm aggressive, so I'll probably opt for the 35mm as most seem to be getting on fine with them and I've never broke a spoke let alone a rim!
I originally bought 38mm rims to put 27.5+ tyres into my 29" ht. After I'd decided that wasn't what I wanted I tried to sell them. With no interest I decided to put them in my 'enduro' bike. So out went the hope/flows and in went the 38mm lb/hope rims. 2.35 and 2.2 maxxis fitted, they look huge on those rims.
Considering the 38mm LB rims for my next 29er build. Has anyone had a set built in Leeds or nearby? (Or the 35mm version for that matter).
Just wondered who you had used and who comes recommended?
Would they need experience of building wheels with carbon rims or is it much the sameness as an alu rim?
There doesn't seem a great deal of difference between 35mm and 38mm bar <2mm internal, 7mm depth and a little extra weight.
Just an update on both my sets of 300mm AM wheelsets, both the same with Pro2 and DT Swiss spokes.
Now managed to crack both rear rims on my hard tail and FS, the first one (HT) was my fault for doing a rather crazy drop into a rock garden that would in fairness have tested most rims, the second though (on my FS) happened in late December during a fairly harmless trail ride.
LB to their credit replaced the rim after a short email correspondence within 2 weeks.
I'm not 100% confident on them on the rocky trails I tend to ride here so have gone back to a DT Swiss XM1501 wheelset on my FS, will keep the LB set on my HT however and see how they go, I have a spare set now anyway.
Got pics of the damage Stuart?
They were less than helpful when I cracked mine, i'm pretty sure it was due to the ridiculous spoke tension they were built with