KMC Chain Problem
 

[Closed] KMC Chain Problem

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Thought I'd treat myself to a 'Bling' KMC-SL chain as they were on offer.
But have a huge problem with it. While trying to ride it makes a right racket and skips like its falling off the cassette teeth at least twice every crank revolution. Thus making it unrideable.
It runs silky smooth through the gears on the work stand, but once under load its crack-slip-tastic, twang !!

Not ideal, so popped the old chain back on and it runs smooth.

Have I done something wrong, does it only go on one way round.
I have checked it is a 9 speed chain and it states it'll run with any 9speed derailleur on the packaging 🙁

Any help much appreciated.

Its a Shimano cassette and XT derailleur.
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Posted : 29/01/2011 6:25 pm
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You've not done anything wrong, you're cassette is just a tad too worn for your new chain. You'll need a new cassette to get it running smoothly.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 6:30 pm
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New chain on old cassette = chain slip.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 6:30 pm
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No way......really?? You all just trying to get me to buy a bling new lightweight cassette 🙁


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 6:44 pm
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they speak the truth! new cassette time I'm afraid


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 6:57 pm
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:).....right then seeing as Im tring to shift some weight, whats everyones recommendations on a lightweight cassette.

Im also wanting to change my wheelset for a set of 24spoke Hope Pro3 SPXC6 but Im really worried that I'll end up having to ride carefully just to save a few grams.....experiences welcomed. I have a read a few posts that say they are fine, but then again I've read a few posts that keep breaking spokes.

Maybe thats for a seperate thread.

Help appreciated...cheers.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 7:05 pm
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unless its a race bike id just go pro2 on your choice of lightweight rim - crests, 717's etc. light and strong.

you'll need an XT or SRAM X0 cassette to avoid chewing the freehub excessively.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 7:26 pm
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oh and I had that chain in silver, great, but didn't last that long


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 7:27 pm
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Thanks mate,
Pro2's on Crest weigh=1653g
Pro2's on Crest weigh=1603g
Pro3's on Crest weigh=1463g

My wheelset is 1985g on my scales. really trying to shift some weight so ever gram counts....thoughts....still pro2's?


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 7:35 pm
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How heavy are you kitted up, what bike are they going on and what do you typically ride?


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 7:40 pm
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Re cassette - not tried SRAM, but I've got an XT cassette running on my main bike and it has lasted well.
On same bike also have those SPXC6 wheels with 24 straight pull spokes. Haven't had any problems at trail centres. Don't use them all the time, but when i do they seem to be fine - Strathpuffer on a full suss, or GT/Inners for example on Black/Red.
And they're fun.
I had the same worry re how long they'd last, but I've had them a year and they're perfect.
Wouldn't take them on a long mountain route as I'm pretty sure they'd be 'unwell if they lose just one spoke, but trail stuff, fine.
Also beieve that if they're built right, then they'll take as much as anything else. It's poor build that has these going 'off'.
I've got 355's on mine, but would now go for Crests.

Hope that helps 🙂


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 7:43 pm
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Good plan, lets get things into perspective....

weight 12 stone dead but getting lighter slowly, wont go below 11.5st
Kitted up maybe a couple of pounds heavier.

Bike Cannondale Rush Carbon (currently at a chubby 28.5lbs)
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Riding: general local XC trails, the odd trail centre, nowt extreme, just faster the better.
1ft-2ft drop offs max, scared of heights 🙂


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 7:44 pm
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You;ll be more than a couple of pounds heavier kitted up.

Add a good pound for shoes, a couple for clothing, a full camel pack with some tools etc - another 5-6lbs minimum, helmet just under a pound 😉 Don't forget you have an 85kg (187lbs or 13st 5lbs) so you should be OK.

BTW your jockey wheels are screwed too 8)


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 7:49 pm
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BTW your jockey wheels are screwed too

And I don't know if it's my eyes, but the cassette looks like puppys teeth as well.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 7:53 pm
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You may find you need new chain rings too mate depending on how long you ran all the kit for


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 7:55 pm
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If it's the original cassette, rings and jockey wheels u be screwed.

Basically sell it and buy a Single Speed steel HT 😆 it'll be cheaper in the long run.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 7:57 pm
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Puppies teeth 🙁 what does that term mean? guessing not good?

New jockey wheels are on the cards anyway....KCNC bling.
Having said that my derailleur is a little bent, but I may have to put up with it if I need new chainrings 🙁

Feeling a little sicker now than earlier.

Thanks for the wheel advice Scoob, they may have to wait with the pending spending.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 8:19 pm
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Want to loose weight of it fast and cheap?
Ditch the rear mudguard! Cant believe you are being that fussy over weight when you have extra things on the bike like that 🙄


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 8:40 pm
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You aint wrong the chubby weight was without all the extra's. I just hate coming home covered. Winter aint pleasant riding 🙁


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 8:42 pm
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Puppies teeth what does that term mean? guessing not good?

Sharp 😛 In your first pic the teeth look like sharks fins (or puppies teeth) and are therefore very worn. Unworn teeth should have a large flat spot at the top.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 8:48 pm
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invest in a chain checker, when it gets to .75 change the chain and you should be ok to keep the rest of the drivechain.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 8:53 pm
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I know what you are saying but invest in some Altura waterproof shorts instead, they will not hold as much weight in mud and this tie of year you no doubt will still wash your bike however dirty it is.
As for the rear mech I had been using XT rear mechs but the derailleur cage seem to be made of monkey metal-they bend way to easy and the last one bent the pin on the bottom knuckle too rendering it proper fubarred. I bought an SLX instead and there is virtually no difference in action/feel/speed and the cages are alot stronger (and only a bit heavier, a packet of crisps I believe).
Beware KMC chains do not seem to be compatible with SRAM Powerlinks, the pins are not quite wide enough to connect so carry a Taya Link or another KMC version.
Now if you want to shed some serious weight, go SS 😛


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 9:02 pm
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Thanks for that advice mate. I hate having a soggy muddy ass, and carrying a super muddy camelbak which is crusty at the next use 🙁

check out these nashers.
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Posted : 29/01/2011 9:17 pm
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My wheelset is 1985g on my scales. really trying to shift some weight so ever gram counts....thoughts....still pro2's?

The Rush frame even in carbon is no lightweight so to lighten it up get some 1,400g - 1,500g wheels at 12 stone you'll be fine with them, budget around £400, lose the Thomson seat post and stem they look nice but they are hefty, budget £100 to £150 to replace, KCNC do some nice lightweight stems and seat posts Ebay is the place to look for deals look out for seller yan_kelly. Change the saddle as well that Fizik Ninsene weighs around 300g, £30 will get you a 200g carbon saddle from Bioflex for £30, fit foam grips instead of lockons that will save another 100g or so, Bontrager Xlite are great value at £8.99.

HTH.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 9:19 pm
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That does help mate, really just at the start of the weight saving OCD stage. started with the tyres, which were Intense 2.35 404's chubby little fellas. Then the skewers which are super light and were a bargain.

I'll have a look in to the KCNC stem and seatpost.I've seen a very nice set of Ritchie super logic bars and seatpost in the Merlin cyles sale. 145gms for a set of riser bars, mega.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 9:32 pm
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Cassette looks a bit worn, KMC chains are pretty good IMO. hard to tell from pic, but top jockey looks ****ed - change it anyway and dont waste time and money on XT or aftermarket bearing jockeys - just get the cheap deore bushing ones - work fine, or if you want a bearing one - the BBB ones are fine.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 9:51 pm
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cheers for the advice there. take it the jockey wheels shouldn't be sharp and pointy either? 🙁


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 10:04 pm
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Nope. sharp & pointy = dead parts & replacement time


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 10:07 pm
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Spend some of that budget on a chain checker maybe, if you replace chains on time you get a lot more life from cassettes. It's not infallible though.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 10:18 pm
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cheers, good to know.
While we are getting it all out in the open, these need to go too?

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Posted : 29/01/2011 10:19 pm
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Middle looks like it's on it's way out, you will tell for sure if you get chainsuck with the new chain. Try it with just a new chain + cassette if you want, and have a new middle ring as backup.

Granny and big rings look OK to me, worth a second opinion though.


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 11:04 pm
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much appreciated mate. If pointy is bad then Mr Middle ring is not looking too good 🙁


 
Posted : 29/01/2011 11:12 pm
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Both granny and middle are showing signs of being hooked, even if it works then it'll wear your new chain out more quickly.


 
Posted : 30/01/2011 8:58 am
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Looking at that I'd replace the lot tbh as your new gear will wear faster with the old rings and buy a chainchecker too.


 
Posted : 30/01/2011 9:04 am