I've just had a new chain fitted to my SS conversion along with all the necessary alignment etc..
The work was done at a very reputable bike dealer. I've just taken fit for a test ride and its fine on the flat and downhill. But on inclines or if I get off the saddle to put some power through, the chain skips like mad. All the components of the drivetrain are brand new. I think it's skipping on the front chainring. Does it need a bit of time to bed-in or should it be fine from go? I'm no expert on SS and would appreciate some advice.
Ta.
I'd quickly check chainring bolts are tight, chain tension is adequate. Would also check that there isn't a broken or bent tooth on the chainring, but unlikely if brand new! EDIT oh and no, it shouldn't need bedding in
I had this on an on one I had and the 9speed Chain they surplyed didn't mesh with the cogs! Totally fine in the stand etc but under load up hill it slip't on the rear cog. We had to fit a half inch bmx chain in the end and it all meshed together fine and worked with out fail. Worth looking in to.
Bats.
Just check it's not your freehub pawls slipping. Mate of mine had the same thing and it drove him nuts trying to work out what was going wrong.
Freehub is brand new too. It is a BMX chain.
IS there enough chain wrap assuming you have a tensioner ?
It should be fine from go, pop back to the dealer for tweaking. Are you using a tensioner? Could be set up wrong. If all parts are new, you may have a faulty part out of the box, it does happen. I would expect a dealer to ensure all parts are compatible (or to advise if not if you specified them).
Do these pic's help?
And no. The chain is not skipping because there's a brush staff stuck in it!
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A non-ramped chainring would help. Can you shorten the chain at all?
get a couple more links round the sprocket if you can by bringing the tensioner up ,may need a half link .I had this problem
Sorry breadcrumb. That meant nothing to a dolt like me! Can you elucidate? Ta.
Way too much chain there, whip a link out
I thought the tensioner pushing up was the preferred route.
Might need to reverse the sprinf inside.
And indeed looks as though you could lose a link.
Or work out the magic gear.
I have single speeded for years on magic gears..
Some killer advice already from the others.
Your front chainring appears to be a geared one not a SS one.
Geared rings have shallow teeth and shift gates/ramps/lift pins to allow slick fast shifting between front chainrings.
SS rings, have no gates/ramps/lift pins, they also have deeper teeth for a better engagement, which is much safer for you and your knees when honking uphill.
First rule of SS club !
Consult his highness of which whom speaks beyond the grave, God bless his soul, the master of all SS and Fixed Sheldon Brown
www.sheldonbrown.com
Crack open a bottle of red, or a cup of tea and biscuits, go read through the site, Sheldon will enlighten you.
🙂 damn good website and held in awe around the world by SS and fixed riders.
Second rule of SS club, get smashed and berate geared riders 🙂
What ^^ he said!
which bit 🙂
Primarily the chainring part, but all of its good advice, especially the last sentence!
I had the exact same issue with virtually identical setup. Even shortening the chain as nuch as possible didn't completely cure it. Going to push up singulator instead of pushdown totally fixed it.
Thanks very much chaps.
Chainring first I think. Where can I get a 36T SS ring?
Try push up singleator first, easy fix. Or do what jerome said. Magic gear.
Charlie the bike monger is a well known SS specialist retailer.
I have used Downhill racing spec Chainrings from E13 and Gamut and DMR and Halo or Renthal with no issue, these are available from most good local bike shops, there are many more brands out there, Blackspire, Shimano, Hope etc etc.
The big difference is the rings are not made to shift chains, so have no ramps, but more important have deeper teeth which is better for singlespeeding.
Surly do a nice a range in steel.
Really have a good root about on Sheldons website, so many unasked questions will be answered for you there. There is some very good tweeking your set up advice in the thread already.
Remember, we all started somewhere 🙂 taking the SS path of enlightenment via Sheldon Brown will open your mind (if you drink a bottle of red first)
If you get the urge to go fixed and wear lycra tight jeans, you have gone beyond help and must relocate to London.
I don't think a new chain is likely to slip on a new chainring, whether it's ramped or not.
Slipping on the rear sprocket is far more likely with that set up.
How many teeth on the rear sprocket ? If it's an even number, put a marker pen or tippex line by a wide link of the chain.
Ride up hill until the chain slips.
Look at your line. Is it now by a narrow link ? If so, that confirms the chain has jumped a tooth on the sprocket.
As others have said, a push up tensioner, giving more engagement between chain and sprocket, would cure it.
Yea, something like 16 teeth engaged at the front and maybe 5-6 teeth at the back... It's going to be the back slipping surely! If you can remove a link do. Might not be able to though so hopefully someone will post a link to a suitable half link you could use to shorten the chain...
Suitable half link - the only one worth bothering with, in my opinion.
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