New pistons didn't push back enough for new pads, so opened bleed nipple and pushed them back. Zero braking now. Maybe another cup of tea first...
How did it go?
I'd previously said on here that I was very happy with my Strokers but I'm going to have to take all that back.....
I'd now say I was very happy with the [u]performance[/u] of my Strokers...right up to the moment when I replaced pistons/seals and needed to bleed.
I failed. My freindly LBS faired better but nowhere near as good as new.
Flogged 'em on fleabay and bought XT instead. Happy now.
Sorry, hope you have more luck than I did.
After stripping these master cylinders, i've found they have a very shallow fluid reservoir so it seems it's difficult to keep the transfer port submerged and air free. I'd try removing the lever from the bars and holding it vertically if you're having no luck the normal way.
Looking forward to bleeding mine then 😥
I had to do this recently after fitting a set of Goodridge hoses, i spent well over an hour trying to bleed the front brake before i ignored the Hayes bleeding instructions and did it another way.
The way i did it you can leave the brake levers/calipers on the bike and leave the bike on the ground (remove brake pads though) I used a 30 ml syringe with the plunger removed connected to the brake lever with a short length of tubing, get an assistant to hold this. Then i put another length of tubing from the caliper bleed nipple into a bottle to catch the fluid. Get your assistant to fill the syringe with brake fluid then open the bleed nipple. It'll gravity bleed to a degree but i found it helped to get your assistant to slowly pull the brake lever a few times to clear all the air bubbles. Once no more bubbles appear close the bleed nipple as your assistant is pulling the brake lever so your tightening it as fluid is being pushed out. After this replace the grub screw on the brake lever.
Took me about 15 mins per brake doing it this way.
Also if you have access to a lathe you can make the adaptor for the brake lever, its just a short M5 bolt with the head machined off and a 2.5mm drill run down through it!