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I have a few problems with my Juicy 7's that I'm hoping some people can shed some light on...
Firstly - the pistons in the rear caliper wont go back fully into the caliper, they both stick out a bit less than a mm. I've tried pushing them back in hard but the seem to bottom out. I've cleaned the pistons and check they both move out freely. Even with a part worn set of pads and the contact adjuster right out it still drags really badly (enough to stop a wheel in about 5 rotation when spun by hand at full force). A bleed today fixed nowt.
Secondly - the pad separator/h-clip/butterfly... Am I the only one who eats these? they keep getting caught up in the rotor making a heck of a racket. I'm considering supergluing it to the pads! Anyone know of anywhere to buy them on their own, without pads?
too much brake fluid - open the bleed valve or take the reservoir top off them push the pistons back. Beware fluid flying everywhere
My clip thing rattles a bit on the back but doesn't (and shouldn't) get caught in the rotor.
When you fit the pads, are you fitting the clips properly? I.e. the thin stalky bits on the inside of the pads, square onto the lip/edge? if these are getting caught you may have them slightly skewed, or crushed them slightly meaning they don't push securely enough against the pad edge. These help keep the pad off the rotor when pedalling along. It wouldn't take much to crush/bend them slightly, and it does make a difference.
Alternaively, my Hope M4's used to wear the spring clip when they got down to bog all pad. So just check you have enough meat left on the pads.
Alternatively, Juicy are pretty hard to bleed; I've had them since they came out and i still have "issues" getting them how I want them. What I mean is, if you have some air still in the system this can push the pads out slightly. However, this doesn't usually feel rock solid to push in - there's normally some give, then they move back out. Ensure you have the pad contact adjust fully wound out when bleeding.
what TJ said
i had this problem the other day and found the answer by googling. releasing a bit of fluid seemed to work. unscrew the torx T10 grub screw on the lever 1/4 turn and tie a rag around to catch the drips
as for the butterfly thing, i presume you mean the spring, rather than the clip which goes in the top of the caliper? the spring shouldn't ever touch your disk, so either it's bent or you're putting it in wrong. the legs should sit either side of the pad material, but it can easily end up in the wrong place as it is so damn fiddly to get the pads in avid calipers
mildred - mine do the same thing, and they are definately in need of a bleed
alex - i had a similar thing to your issue #1 with my rear J7 - seemed to spend time after 'every' ride freeing up a sticky piston, finally fitted brand new seals and pistons and all is well....
ref the spring clip thing - given how they fit I'm struggling to see how you are getting them to catch the rotor,
check the sram site for service instructions to be sure you have them seated correctly. It may even be shown here [url=
bleeding on you tube[/url] ?
Cheers for the advice everyone, Im very sure that the pads are fitted correctly with the clip - i'm baffled how they manage to get tangled up in the rotor.
Ill try letting a bit of fluid out of the system as im confident that i've done everything else you have all suggested - marsdenman - i followed that exact video!