[Closed] A hardtail that does it all? Exists?

Salsa Timberjack complete if you push the budget. www.keeppedalling.com will be getting some in. Or you could get a Timberjack frameset and see what bits you can recycle from your collection?

^thnks will take a look. Bits need to be sold to fund full bike, they're also 26er, wheels, forks, and old school (9spd) shifters so none of any use for a build.

Could you not use a single speed tensioner? If you could would that not leave open almost any hardtail?

Would selling stuff of get you enough for a custom frame to your exact speck from Marino? You would have to wait, but you could have exactly what you want. E.g. 26" wheel of/ fork compatible to save selling your current bits and buying new ones.

I've liked my pikes locked out bike packing. When I've forgotten to turn the lockout off. But I've bike packed and toured on forks without lockout with no real problems.

My cove stiffee did it all. I had it down fort William, raced an xc race, toured Sweden for a couple of weeks, rode half way round Ireland and had it round lots of trail centers. I'd suggest almost any alloy frame you can buy now would be better for almost all those things, it was very short in the top tube!

The on one hello Dave I have now would do all that minus the single speed bit, you could probably build a second hand one in budget.

I take it you're aware that aluminium is not real?

So you have two nice steel bikes and you want an aluminium hard tail?

Get out!

And the answer is a 2nd hand Stooge MK3 with an optional boing fork.

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBOOSCGX/on-one-scandal-sram-gx-mountain-bike

Over budget and wheelsize, but ticks some other boxes.

I can't think of any SS aluminium frames? You can usually rig some sort of BB mounted tensioner, although the thick chainstay yolk would probably mean it would have to push down not up unless you were very close to the perfect ratio, so not quite as neat.

My 2016 dartmoor hornet 150mm fork 26 inch wheels.

Wait for the scandal to go back to a grand.

Or Sonder Frontier

2nd hand Alu Chameleon will do all that for you.

Never really understood the dissing given to a simple tensioner, it just works, and opens up opportunities to use pretty much any frame. Especially as an 'only MTB', when you might want to run gears sometimes.

Not entirely averse to running a tensioner just would prefer to keep things neat.

Chameleon crossed my mimd. Few and far used though
Frontier looks hohum but sensible
Scandal possible, what about the fork, anyone used one?

Other option is going 29+ plus/mid-fat on the Longitude and single-speeding it but

1. Is QR dropouts so might slip?
2. Is steel so would have to store on interior wall, and already pulled a fist-sized chunk of old brickwork out of a chimney breast last time I tried it 😬
3. Wouldn’t be as versatile as a decent fork w/lockout option

How about a Vitus Sentier 27 VR? w/tensioner?

How about a Vitus Sentier 27 VR? w/tensioner?

Not a slack up front, or as steep in the seat angle as the Scandal (can you tell I'm really liking my Scandal at the moment). Fork looks really good though. 11s Deore Vs GX drivechain, bit heavier and harder to upgrade, but if you plan to SS it then it doesn't matter.

Wait for the scandal to go back to a grand

Wouldn't hold my breath this year. The "piss off we're busy" pricing of the frame only to me gives the impression they're struggling to get stock of frames and focusing on higher margin full bikes with existing stock?

And it's got a different (much more expensive) fork now, and I think wider rims too. Both things that I'd suggest the original builds could have improved on. The 35 is a fantastic fork on a £1k bike, and the fulcrum wheels likewise, but both are a bit heavy and the freehub peeves me off towards the end of a ride when my peddling gets choppy and I get a clang at TDC, and the rims could be wider. Tyres aside, for £1400 I'd say it was good value right now.

A hardtail that does it all?

Yeah, every year since the 90's we've had the same question, and the same answer too on whatever's been current the last couple of years.

a 2nd hand Stooge MK3

Vitus Sentier 27 VR

Sonder Frontier

dartmoor hornet

cove stiffee

Rearrange in order of year for an approximate timeline 😆

Other option is going 29+ plus/mid-fat on the Longitude and single-speeding it but

1. Is QR dropouts so might slip?

I've had no issues with this on my longitude. If you're worried go solid axle and track nuts.

Yeah, every year since the 90’s we’ve had the same question, and the same answer too on

The answer isn't a bike of any sort, the answer is rider expectations or willingness to compromise. I'm quite happy riding most stuff on my Longitude because I don't mind the fact that it's not ideal on a lot of terrain, I just accept I'll be a bit slower on some bits.

2. Is steel so would have to store on interior wall

Is this a thing? I've never even thought about which wall bikes should be on other than not the side of the garage where my wife's bikes are.

^

Is this a thing?

Being blasé about having a garage? Apparently so 😉

One of my (albeit dwindling) aspirations is to own a house. Specifically one with a garage. Until then I’m wrestling with bikes in a flat and it drives me mad. Every muddy ride = a full wash + brush + dry.

I lost a treasured hardtail last year to (unseen) internal rust having stored it in a friend’s less-than ideal barn/cellar (which is also 5 miles away, so also not ideal to grab and ride whenever)

I’m quite happy riding most stuff on my Longitude because I don’t mind the fact that it’s not ideal on a lot of terrain, I just accept I’ll be a bit slower on some all bits.

FTFM

And yet I’m still quite happy on the Longitude. I seem to do a lot of descending though (primarily ride in hilly/mountainous country West of England and Wales)and forearms/hands always seem more quickly pumped and knackered on the Longitude than on the old P7 (130mm forks) by far

I have one hardtail/rigid MTB - Smokestone Henderson fatbike....

Two sets of forks/bars and wheels....
It can be set up for bike packing/xc/trail or uplift days.

It's a really versatile bike. So much so, I've bought the ti version recently (just waiting on delivery...)

Marin elroy?

What’s driving the alloy over steel suggestion - keeping it outside vs inside? Where do you store your current 2x steel bikes - surely if selling both and getting 1 bike to replace would improve your storage issue anyway?

In terms of alloy and the budget then the On One Scandel is defo worth a look if you can go with a 29er.

I sold a Vitus Sentier 27.5” last year - it was a really fun bike but I found it was great for playing but my lower back would tighten up after an hour or so as it was quite direct. I’ve swapped to a Marino custom build (Reynolds 725 steel) and running bigger tyres and I seem to be fine riding for 3 hours without any back issues. Possibly more the change from a 2.3” DHR2 at the back to a 2.6” Forekaster - but the steel flex could be helping too.

If sliding dropouts is a requirement then you could design a Marino with those in place and the exact geometry you want to cover everything. I avoided the hugely long reach / extremely slack headangle a that seem to be the trend at the moment and went for something modern but not mental. I knew I liked the Vitus so I started with that as a base, slackened the head angle a bit, extended the reach and shortened the seat tube to fit in a decent length dropper. Your only issue with the Marino option is how long it will take to be built. I think they’re charging £399 ish delivered for a steel hardtail to the U.K. at the moment.

I got the last 19 inch Sensa Merano from Merlin last week, with pretty much the same set of criteria. I sold my Vagabond..

https://www.merlincycles.com/sensa-merano-evo-race-mountain-bike-2021-217010.html

I can’t think of any SS aluminium frames?

Specialized Fuse

Never really understood the dissing given to a simple tensioner,

Because it looks like a crappy bodge and it is simply NEVER as good as a proper single speed frame that doesn't rely on a tensioner.
Nothing wrong with them if you like using one but I wouldn't have one on my bike.

What’s driving the alloy over steel suggestion

My reason for getting the Scandal over the Big Dog was after trying a few bikes and concluding that Steel was real 10 years ago, significantly less so now. Aluminium frames were actually more comfortable and felt sprightlier and obviously slighter.

I've never worried about rust, CrMo doesn't rust anywhere near as quickly the cheap steel cars are made from, and I park my car outside.

The only thing I miss about steel is it's toughness. My steel bikes I'd happily throw on the bike rack with no extra padding, drop on the ground, bash around and generally mistreat. My aluminium bike get's wrapped in blankets before being put in the car, it just wouldn't survive 200 miles being shaken against the metal back of the seats.

Specialized Fuse

Not available as a frameset outside the USA.

Because it looks like a crappy bodge and it is simply NEVER as good as a proper single speed frame that doesn’t rely on a tensioner.
Nothing wrong with them if you like using one but I wouldn’t have one on my bike.

Depends on the frame, the one on my Vagabond always skipped, I think it was a mix of frame flex and the chain length being too long to get sufficient wrap.

Every other frame I've stuck one one has been flawless. And arguably less faffy than anything that needs tensioning.

Looks? Singlespeeds are for riding, not looking at in the stand.

My reason for getting the Scandal over the Big Dog was after trying a few bikes and concluding that Steel was real 10 years ago, significantly less so now. Aluminium frames were actually more comfortable and felt sprightlier and obviously slighter.

I agree completely. There're still some decent steel bikes about, but they do cost.

There's an XL Chameleon on the Pinkbike classifieds for £1200.

CrMo doesn’t rust anywhere near as quickly the cheap steel cars are made from, and I park my car outside.

It’s also to do with where you live/humidity. Up here in the Hills there is a lot of rain, no sun on our (North) side, and also a lot of fog cloud/precipitation.

I bought a 2008 P7 a couple or three years ago and the chainstay is now rusted through in holes.

Was stored in neighbouring outhouse but humidity drips from the ceiling. So moved it to a friend’s barn for a year as I was off riding/injured anyway. Got it back last autumn to clean it and then ride/test my rehab and found that the rustworm had done for it

Car too. Took possession of handmedown (grandad) car in silly good grandad order just two years ago. The sills have taken a major hit since it moved here and are now advised to fail on by corrosion next MOT. I have algae growing on my head if I spend too long changing my shoes on the doorstep!

The Longitude is already showing some of the red devil under the gussets and that’s stored in an indoors room (albeit unheated). It literally drives me insane.

What’s driving the alloy over steel suggestion – keeping it outside vs inside? Where do you store your current 2x steel bikes

Indoors shared living/workspace/a hallway/on carpet. I have to loosen the stems, twist bars, remove pedals etc to fit as flatly as possible against wall. That’s after getting a bucket of water outside, brush etc and have cleaned the muddy tyres/bike and dried it before wheeling in over carpets etc. A 40 minute muddy ride from the door becomes a major enterprise.

The 2nd mtb is currently a frame hanging up on my study/studio wall awaiting build. Once ready it will effectively block the access walk-space once built and stowed alongside other 2 bikes.

I can use neighbouring damp storage and have an aluminium shopping hybrid in there which is still going strong 10 years later. Except for the steel handlebars which look like measles.

2nd hand Alu Chameleon will do all that for you.

Was going to be my suggestion too.

In normal times there was a second hand surplus of them, bought and barely used by SC fanboys for winter who then discovered they didn't like riding hardtails or in the mud anyway.

Others get absolutely adorned with top end parts and ridden hard and fast year round by hardtail fans.

There seems to be no middle ground.

Surly Karate-monkey? A little Over budget but does everything you're asking, plus comes with a rigid fork as well as a RockShox Revelation. 27.5 but will run 29er too, rack mounts, sliding drop outs etc etc.

It's steel, but has a special internal tube treatment to prevent rust.

Rode one recently, lovely bike. Nearly went for one but wanted 29er and Shimano over Sram, bought a Sherpa instead.

My On One Whippet built up into a very nice to ride SS.
No vertical drop outs but worked perfectly as was and flew around the woods.

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Then made it 1x10 and then put some suspension forks and a dropper on it. Not ridden it as that yet as I'm thinking of selling it.

Also have a carbon Chameleon set up in 27.5+ mode. That handles more abrubt trails very well but I think for all day bimbles and general XC riding, the Whippet would give it some good competition as it feels like a newer take on old school biking. Pedal and thee accelerates rapidly.

Not available as a frameset outside the USA.

What is this?

https://www.pristiwanicyclesstore.com/specialized-fuse-m4-29-frame/

Looks? Singlespeeds are for riding, not looking at in the stand.

I ride mine a lot, it is my only bike. I also like it to look nice and a tensioner looks shit.

That Fuse looks the business

Surly karate monkey is a good choice, great ride, great finish, including a coating inside the tubes.
I have a 2018 model, bought as a frameset to go with some spare tyres i had.
I use it for bikepacking, and generally ****ing about.
I’d happily buy another.
Sliding boost dropouts, so can run ss without tensioner, and comes with a really nice rigid fork. (Edit)

Sonder transmitter, they sell shop soiled/ 2nds frames direct from the shops sometimes for decent money