I'm doing some very long gravel rides at the moment (doing GBdivide in 3 weeks) and I've started developing quite severe pain in my left palm after about an hour of riding. This is almost certainly because I'm putting too much pressure on my hands, so need to move my saddle back further. Problem is, it's already set back as far as it can go.
I have a BrandX Ascend II 100mm dropper post on my bike which has zero setback. It's internally routed and activated on the left lever.
I'm just wondering whether there are any ways of moving the seat back further? Adapters or special saddles which can be moved back further? I'd even consider a different dropper post if there's no other option, however, they _all_ seem to have zero offset.
The only possible option I've found would be to buy a Rockshox Reverb and this adapter
BIKERUMOR.COM Would love to hear any other (preferably less expensive and labour intensive) solutions.
Can you not alter the saddle angle to reduce the load on your wrists?
Specialized Command post is laid back
how is moving your saddle back and increasing your reach going to reduce the load on your hands?
Surely this will also have a negative effect on your pedalling position?
personally i would set the saddle so that it is in the best position for pedalling then adjust the front end to suit. with too much weight on your hands i would suggest your bar height might be a good place to start.
Surely moving your saddle back will make you lean forward further and put more weight on your wrists? Wouldn’t a shorter stem or one with more rise relieve the pressure?
just another thought but if you are planning to do the divide a quality bike fit probably wouldnt be a bad investment.
Surely moving your saddle back will make you lean forward further and put more weight on your wrists?
I'm pretty sure the saddle is too far forward in relation to my bottom bracket. When I take my hands off the bars I struggle to maintain that body position (I feel like I'm going to topple forward), even though I have reasonable core strength. By moving the saddle back, more weight should be transferred through my legs, meaning less weight through my arms and hands. That's the theory anyway.
just another thought but if you are planning to do the divide a quality bike fit probably wouldnt be a bad investment.
I did one back in November (at Surrey Cycleworks) and it completely sorted out my back and knee problems. The fitter at the time switched the saddle for one with longer rails which could go backwards further, but he also said that because of the zero setback on my dropper the saddle was still a bit too far forward but to "see how I go" as I was unwilling to change my dropper at that time.
Got an appt on Friday to investigate further. I'll be properly gutted if I have to switch for a normal seat post as I use my dropper on pretty much every descent.
Not quite the answer you're looking for but I found a mix of Ergon GP1 grips and Specialized Grail gloves really helped with spreading out pressure across my hands. Definitely make sure you haven't got those gel gloves that can actually concentrate pressure on certain areas like the outer bit of the palm where, I think, it's the ulnar nerve running.
Given you only have 3 weeks you may need something like that as well as sorting out the weight on hands issues.
they are pretty minging and heavy, and load a dropper in an interesting way, but sjs sell saddle things that push the saddle futher back.
I think others are available too..
moving the saddle back will put mre stress on your core and arms
as your torso will move further towards horizontal
moving closer to the bars forces you to sit more upright making it easier to self support
i can't take the weight off my hands on any of my bikes in the seated riding position.
my solution to pain in the hands is decent grips (tempted to try the AMS tapered grips) and good fitting carbon bars.
I also tip the saddle back, until i cna feel it (where i dont' want to feel it) then fractionaly tip it forward again until i don't feel it
Friend uses one of these:
[url=
https://flic.kr/p/2nkUcwb ]Saddl" rel="nofollow" >e">
shifter[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/brf/ ]Ben Freeman[/url], on Flickr
they are pretty minging and heavy, and load a dropper in an interesting way, but sjs sell saddle things that push the saddle futher back.
I think others are available too..
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Nice idea, unfortunately these adapters (aside from the FAIR bikes adapter for Reverb droppers
all seem to attach using a single both whereas my dropper has 2 bolts.
moving the saddle back will put mre stress on your core and arms
as your torso will move further towards horizontal
moving closer to the bars forces you to sit more upright making it easier to self supportMoving the saddle forward would put even more stress on my hands because my torso will be pushed forward into my hands. The bike fit I had in Nov confirmed this and the fitter wanted to move the saddle back further to correct it but couldn't because of the dropper. This article explains why moving the saddle back makes sense:
https://www.cyclingutah.com/tech/bike-fit/shaking-off-numb-hands/
FAIRBICYCLE.COM Friend uses one of these:
I would not trust that offroad. All your weight is levering against one fairly small bolt. If you're lucky, it'll just bend. If you're unlucky, you'll get to choose new pronouns.
I would look at different saddles to see which ones have rails that run furthrest forwards. That way you'll just bend the saddle rails instead of ripping yourself a new on on the jagged broken end of the seatpost.
However, before doing that, I would try raising the bars and running a shorter stem, as suggested above.
It's a funny thing, all droppers seem to have zero layback and a variation of the 2 bolt clamp.
Maybe there's an issue with rearward stress on the workings if there's any layback in the clamp ? - if that is the case, then any adapter (if there was a compatible one) would be a bad idea.
Longer railed saddle would obviously then be the best option - I've found some fizik (Antares?) seem to have the most adjustment as the seat part is higher over the rails.
An expensive option - This dropper post is available with 25mm offset - 9point8
What sort of terrain is the GB Divide?
If you are used to using a dropper, perhaps it would be a bit of a pain to go back to a normal seatpost but is there anything in the route that really requires one?
If it puts you in a more comfortable position, that will probably be more of an advantage than being able to drop your saddle every now & again?
It will save you a bit of weight too.
Why not buy the cheapest seatpost with setback you can find and see if it makes a difference?
What sort of terrain is the GB Divide?
If you are used to using a dropper, perhaps it would be a bit of a pain to go back to a normal seatpost but is there anything in the route that really requires one?
The route is a mixture of gravel, bridleway, single track and roads (55% offroad). It's also very hilly.
Having a dropper would be a definite advantage. I just did King Alfred's Way which is similar terrain and used it on most downhills, even on roads it allows me to bunny hop over potholes and speedbumps, and generally just control the bike better by shifting my weight around.
If it puts you in a more comfortable position, that will probably be more of an advantage than being able to drop your saddle every now & again?
This is it exactly. Even with all the dropper advantages I'd prefer not to have severe pain in my left palm for hours a day! I could always fit a normal seatpost with a quick release seat clamp and just drop it for any steep technical bits, just like in the good 'ol days 🙂
Why not buy the cheapest seatpost with setback you can find and see if it makes a difference?
Great idea. At my last bike fit my LBS actually gave me a new saddle to try for 30 days. If I didn't like it could return for refund no questions asked. Maybe they'll do the same for a seatpost.
It’s a funny thing, all droppers seem to have zero layback and a variation of the 2 bolt clamp.
Maybe there’s an issue with rearward stress on the workings if there’s any layback in the clamp ? – if that is the case, then any adapter (if there was a compatible one) would be a bad idea.
Longer railed saddle would obviously then be the best option – I’ve found some fizik (Antares?) seem to have the most adjustment as the seat part is higher over the rails.
Ks Eten has layback
Ks Eten has layback
Well, surely then that's an answer to the OP, not me! 😛
Eten seems to be a lever under the saddle one. Eten-R maybe?
It sounds wrong but a riding buddy told me to tip the nose of the saddle down quite a bit. It works for me. Apparently it encourages your core muscles to engage and hold you more upright.
KS Eten-i is internally routed and has 20mm layback.
I have exactly the same requirement as the op and bought one of those KS droppers off Amazon for $220 Canadian dollars (about £140).
I only bought it on Friday the 13th 🥺and it hasn't turned up yet, so don't consider this a recommendation!
On my eternal search for an ideal saddle I’ve just got a bontrager verse saddle. Has very long rails. So far v comfy too.
Also Trek (Bontrager) do an unconditional return within 30 days. I swapped after 5 rides to a wider version. No questions asked.
A cheaper option may be a slightly longer stem..
How long is the stem you're using at the moment, and how much lower are your bars vs saddle?
Great idea. At my last bike fit my LBS actually gave me a new saddle to try for 30 days. If I didn’t like it could return for refund no questions asked. Maybe they’ll do the same for a seatpost.
Mate, you can buy a seatpost for a tenner...
How are your grips? Have you considered something that allows you to swap hand positions a lot more over the course of the day?
Also, left palm only? What is it about your riding position/physical condition that produces pain there but not on the RH side?
The other option is a bar/stem combo with bigger rise.
As above, am trying to see why you aren't just trying out a higher bar position?
Sorry for not answering your question! :-/
You need a new bike 😉
Are you on drops?