[Closed] Hope Pro 2 rear problem

Am I cursed or something? Because no one seems to reply to my posts 🙁

Replyed

Happy now 🙂

The freehub should pop off quite easily, if it is really stuck i would take it to you lbs to do it, its an expensive hub to mess up if you try and force it.

Yeah I am very happy 😛 I'll have another go after some WD40 has been on for an hour or so

Cheers

Put the rear casette back on the freehub and use this to pull the whole assembly off by putting both hands/fingers around the back of it,theres more leverage by doing this and it will usually come off easily.

It works best if you hold the sprockets against the pawls slightly as you work it off,remember its best to use alloy freehubs with alloy cassettes,steel/steel,as steel cassettes causes wear on the alloy splines,causing it to jam. 😥

Be carefull not to loose small parts,and remember to fit the washer between the wheel bearing and freehub body,I would replace the plastic free hub to hub seal as well,I would avoid using grease to lube,automotive oil works best or a light three in one oil.

getting everything clean is vitally important,I use brake cleaner as this evaporates quickly, and leaves no residue unlike a dry lube.

Try to press fit new bearings using a peice of threaded bar/nuts/washers and the old bearings,avoid steel punches and hammering on replacment as it can cause damage imho. hth 😉

Right I haven't tried that yet try it tommorow because I've just put it back on the bike for a ride tommorow...

I've tried what you say and it still won't budge 🙁

Shorty have a read of this - Any help?

http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/maintenance/hope-pro-ii-rear-hub-service.htm

I'm sure I've got everything taken off that might be restricting it but it won't budge at all 🙁

When I had this problem I held the freehub in the jaws of a workmate and pulled up on the wheel. Proper job. Just don't lose the spacer washer.

Tried putting it in a vice and no luck 🙁

Wouldn't have problem if you'd bought a King hub 😀

They came on the bike 😛 I don't know how they have become so stuck if it is only a seal holding it in.

Hey. They just get stuck. Give it a really good pull and try not too whack your elbow on anything.

I've hit the thing with a hammer from the none drive side I don't know if there's anything more to do 🙁

I have one in the work shop I'll figure out the best way to take it of tomorrow and let you know what I figure out if you like. Let me know though I don't want to do it for no good reason.

Ah that would be great I don't think I'll be giving it another go until tomorrow night

If you do find anything can you PM me?

Mate they do just pull off, even with my soft office hands - try your LBS.

Yeah If I can't do it tomorow or kaesae can't find a way of doing it, Then I'll send it to 18bikes

16lb sledge mate, its in the manual?

Well if you want to pay for the rebuild of the wheel then you can be my guest 😛

They do just pull off. Stick it all back together with a cassette on and pull on the cassette it will just come apart in your hands.

Doesn't seem to budge at all

Try penetrating oil. bearings may have corroded onto the axle. Plus gas is good, drench and leave overnight.

Yeah that is an idea is it possible to hit the axle out with the free hub still on?

The axles made of alloy and a bit soft to bosh with a hammer!

use a peice of wood if you really must wack it!..you will feel better if nothing else..lol

Its the freehub you need to remove to access the stiff inner bearing thats mounted on the axle,chances are the odd spring will have broken anyway.

,If it still wont budge try tapping gently on the back of the cassette with a flat punch (between the spokes)also try to work the cassette off the splines by doing this in a circular motion around the inner face of the bigger sprocket. hth 🙄

Don't force it gorilla-style but, if you can lift the freehub a bit, then you might be able to squeeze a screwdriver between the hub body and one of the "teeth" on the freehub (the bits you slide the cassette onto). I've successfully done that on a recalcitrant hub.

EDIT: I was pretty late there, and it seems you're already well past subtle methods... good luck!

Haha real it's a real shame because they such nice hubs. I've even tried the screwdriver through the spokes method 🙁

I had [url= http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/hope-pro-ii-frrehub-removal ]EXACTLY[/url] the same problem a few weeks back.

I put part of an old cassette on and used a couple of mean looking Intense tyre levers to force it off. Pop! You could just as easily use a couple of large flat headed screwdrivers.

With the drive side facing you - Place the end of the levers at the edge of the hub behind the cassette at 3 and 9 Oclock. Pull the outside edge of the levers. Jobs a good'n.

Good luck

Hmmmm cheers i'll give it another go tomorrow atleast I'm not the only tool 😛

Hey. I would soak it with the penetrating solution over night. That's a good idea and then have a go at it. I'll have a go at working out some techniques tomorrow.

Ok got it soaking off to bed thanks very much people 🙂

With the cassette attached, tap the back of the cassette (with a screwdriver through the spokes, or maybe one each side). If that fails ............................tw*t the back of the cassette (with a screwdriver through the spokes, or maybe one each side)

If its really stuck then as a last resort smack the axle out from the drive side with a rubber mallet. Though this will probably result in needing a full rebuild, as it could damage the bearings from putting force on the internal bearing race and the hub bearings will pop out of the hub and off the axle. Probably the outer most bearing has rusted onto the axle. Its what the LBS will do if nothing else works.

Hey. Hopefully this will be of some use.

Kaesae - that looks like it's worth a try 🙂

It works you just add in more 2 pence pieces and it pulls it off. make sure you catch as many threads as possible. I'm off up arthurs seat to feed the birds, day off and I'm knackered.

Thanks very much included a video aswell 🙂 I'll just go give it ago

Cool shorty121 I love solving problems, I know if I want to be a fully fledged single tracker I should argue over nothing and talk crap. Getting stuff done is much more fun. Let me know how you get on.

Sucess gosh it was tough the bearing was seized to the axle I think. So when the axle got near flush with the bearing I used a nut with the 2p's and it came off 🙂

My Pro II has had new bearings twice now and both times it's had to go to the shop just to get it apart, and both times it's apparently been a bit of a mission for them with bearings seized onto the axle.

(I don't have a vice or know anyone handy with one.)

Hey. Sounds great. Now that I have proven my worth, do you want one of my bearing kits for free to top of your accomplishment?

I can show you how to service these hubs with what ever is lying around I can also sell you superb bearing kits. Upto the riders really but I'm all about biking and I don't have a penny in the bank, so I certainly am not a banker!!!

Just about to ask about the bearing sizes 😛

Got some new bearings ordered and now some springs and pawls where can I get that set?

Ring 18bike sin hope and speak to si - 01433621111 - will cost a few quid 🙂

Or £10 pawls - http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/176/hub516/hope-pro-2-pawls-set-of-4.html

or £3 for springs - http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/176/hub515/hope-pro-2-pawl-springs-set-of-4.html

Free P&P - UKBikeStore is very reliable IME for hope spares 🙂

If you've soaked it with penetrating fluid like WD40 or GT85 you'll need to replace the bearings, you'll have stripped the grease from inside them.

or simply repack them with grease

I can give you a performance kit for your hub that will out last the competition by years. They are also performance bearing as well, the problem with direct replacement bearings by hope and most other bearings is that they don't get weather proofed so don't last too long.

Upto you but my kits sell for £19.50 plus postage so getting the best kit on the market for free doesn't sound like a bad thing to me!

kaesae - could you mail me some details of your kit please. Are you talking about tools to replace the bearings? If the OP isn't interested in your offer, I'll be happy to verify their usefulness.

Yeah that's what I'm thinking

WOT a tooling kit as well. I've been giving the kits away recently anyway. email me your address both of you and no one else. I'll send out some kits and show you a guide on changing the bearings.

I really do have the best kits in the industry. why do you think descent world ran the story on them. I gave them kits for some of their own bikes and some to give away as well.

http://www.descent-world.co.uk/2010/03/10/katec-bikes-custom-bearing-kits/

Mailed you, thanks.

Sent you an email

Would love to take you up on the offer of the bearings. I accidently ordered some you're bearings off youre ebay site before I noticed youre offer is it possible for you cancel it?

Hey mate. Yes I'll send you a cancel transactin request other wise I'll get charged 10% by feebay. I'll get the bearings out first though and let you check them out.

Ridefree!

Can I just say Kaesae that this thread has changed my opinion of you.

You do seem to be someone who genuinely wants to help and believes in what he's doing rather than just (and this was my previous view to be frank) someone who was chancing his luck on ebay.

Not wanting to inflame the situation here but see:

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/htii-bearing-help/page/2#post-1335892

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/gegging-on-a-ride

?

@wwaswas I've spent 5 years helping everyone I can get out biking. 90% of the frames I've sold have been on the verge of collapse. Because of me and a lot of hard work also ingenuity they are now still in circulation.

Hundreds of bikes that would have been destroyed are getting used, if that's not a good thing then what is? My prices are higher than most peoples on the bay, however for the amount of work I do and the ride quality of the frames, they are all good value for money.

This is a Kona stinky from 05 that was completely ruined. Check out the back end action and what I've done to get it back out into the MTB scene.

Off course all of you see me as a complete and utter pr1ck, how could you treat me the way you have and still for a lot of you do! if you didn't?

I do find it hard to hear what you are saying on your you tube clips of late Kasease - could you talk a bit slower and be mic'ed up a bit better - unless my hearing is going?

I did like your 2 pence piece clip to try and get the Freehub body off though 🙂

Hey. The rattling in my lungs is from exhausion and inflammation in my lungs. I wouldn't even do those clips but it's easier than doing photo's and emails. Once my exhaustion passed from working all the time and the inflammation from my lungs is gone I should be able to talk without drawing in gulping breaths, hopefully that will clear the sound quality up.

As long as riders can understand what I'm saying if only barely and it helps them sort out their bikes, I'll continue to do my clips that make me look like a numpty.

Peace foxy I have too much on and I would rather chase the dream of us riders controlling the industry rather than argue.

Farewell.

No Probs Kaease - only a bit of contructive/positive criticism that I would expect form the STW massive if I posted a clip up 😉

I heard him fine 🙂

Off to get new speakers and a hearing aid................. 🙂

Foxy a Rab C Nesbitt DVD might help 😉

SV a rab c nesbitt dvd always helps just like all comedy, it's called fun try it sometime, when you,re not having a strop of a time.

Two sets of bearings for hope pro 2 rear hubs on the way should be there tomorrow or the next day.

If you don't get them by friday let me know posted something from Edinburgh to Edinburgh on sunday and it's lost???

kaesae - what's the thing that he screws into the hub in that video?

Cassette locking ring.

Free bearings AND extra punctuation - so kind to the biking world. The 'industry' must be worried by these super greased bearing kits. Remind me the percentage performance gain you claim for suspension linkages using Katec bearings.

Over chinese or standard generic bearings 5% to 10% the same amount that Stendec AKA Intense, Specialized and Giants race teams claim, it's also the reason they run them.

I'm not kind to the biking world sunshine I'm kind to the bikers you and all the other bankers out there can go to hell!!!

😆

👿 😈 :D:lol:

This is a Kona stinky from 05 that was completely ruined. Check out the back end action and what I've done to get it back out into the MTB scene.

I don't understand your video - are you saying it's good that the bearings resist movement?

 

Hello retro83, I hope you are genuinely interested and sincere in your question as I have a limited time in front of the computer and a lot to do.

I believe that subtle manipulations to the rear end on full sus MTB frames can improve both the efficiency and subsequent ride quality. On the frames I sell and with the bearings my back ends run, energy is actively being absorbed by the action, as there is less energy for the dampening unit to deal with the whole bike performs better.

Look at it this way if a proportion of the energy that is created when the back end moves is absorbed by the actual back ends action then the shock is better able to do its job. As long as this process doesn’t interfere with the movement of the rear end or shocks dampening there are benefits to be gained.

Say we have 100% pressure or energy in the transfer of movement from wheel contact to shock. With standard bearings there is no energy absorption and also as a result of the loose tolerances play either from the beginning of the bearings life or later on. The rear end will move on a very slight arc, and is therefore not as efficient at dealing with these forces that are being applied to it.
However in contrast my bearings or teflon thust spacers and other mods actively absorb energy without interfering with the function of the back end or the shocks dampening characteristics.
How could this not be a good thing? That said the proof is in the pudding.
Any three riders on here that want a bearing kit for their rides for yet again free!

As long as I have the bearings in my performance range they will be posted out to you.

First come first served. All past disputes are suspended, let fate decide who gets a freebie!!!

You have to show me a photo of you with your frame and a piece of paper with today’s date on it. You also have to prove that your bearings are goosed, let’s say a short you tube clip with your back shock off and the bearings condition. Or play at any of your pivot points.

Only the photo of the frame and piece of paper with the date are needed to qualify however you do need to prove the condition of the bearings later on.

Win the best bearings in the industry for a few moments of your time, install them and forget about them for years.
That said the thought of giving away another £100 worth or more of bearing kits isn’t a good one. Please don’t call my bluff.

Kael.

I don't understand what you are saying - you want the bearings to damp the action of the suspension?

Look at it this way if a proportion of the energy that is created when the back end moves is absorbed by the actual back ends action then the shock is better able to do its job. As long as this process doesn’t interfere with the movement of the rear end or shocks dampening there are benefits to be gained.

Those statements seem to contradict one another.

I want the bearings to absorb and channel the energy that is transfered from the back wheel through the suspension and shock.

I want to force the energy through the close tolerances of the bearings thus having a percentage of it be absorbed by the bearings design and having what energy is left over to be transfered more efficiently or with greater control into the rear shocks dampening.

Hopefully that will make sense if not I cannot say it any simpler.

retro83 - Member

This is a Kona stinky from 05 that was completely ruined. Check out the back end action and what I've done to get it back out into the MTB scene.

I don't understand your video - are you saying it's good that the bearings resist movement?

Yes but only if it is a small percentage of the movement say 5% to 10% and if the energy is reduced proportionally, that is after all what the shock is designed to do anyway, is it not?

I don't understand what you are saying but would like to.

Do you have the test reports of trials you have done? Are you saying that the bearings should act as mini dampers? That is surely incorrect?

In all seriousness - can you explain with diagrams and science...

I just watched the video... even more confused now...

Are you honestly saying a back end with loads of bearing resistance is a good thing? If so then you need to have a look at why you think this as it is wrong.

Suspension needs to move as freely as possible... or its not acting correctly. Example - if it was the fork are you saying there should be MORE stiction engineered into it? That doesnt make any sense.