Some one posted on here with pics not so long ago on the options of how to do the above. I cant believe how flexi the back end of my bullit is with a hope QR in it. I know you can get the 150mm drop outs for it but as I only use it once in a blue moon for uplift days or alp trips, I cant be arsed at the mo to get a new hub and build. Any advice much appreciated.
You want a 10mm bolt up conversion..
what about a 10mm bolt thru axle - any better?
beat me
Just had a butchers at crc and it looks like £19.99 for the hope kit and £12.99 for a saint 10mm axle. Does that sound about right?
Sorry to be jumping in but what can be done to a Prophet? The hub can be converted to a 10mm thingy, but will it fit?
Saint axle is no use unless you use a Saint rear mech.
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=11825 ]Axle[/url]
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18758 ]Bolts[/url]
10mm should fit in regular QR dropouts no problem.
Forgive my ignorance but what has the axle got to do with the mech?
The older Saint rear mech bolted directly onto the threaded end of the wheel axle- giving a strong and stiff setup with no need for the frames mech hanger to get damaged.
Ah ha.
So any recommendations on an axle or just make one out of stainless.
are the bolts the correct size for "normal" dropouts?
Which bolts?
the ones rock3 linked too
What would they thread into and I dont like the idea of the thread being load bearing on the drop outs. Surly a solid thru axle would be stiffer which is what Im trying to achieve.
Just a thought, could I not drill out the existing adapters and just get an axle?
think about the dropouts - how big are they?
Uh?
jeez
If I convert the hub to 10mm axle, what should I use to hold the wheel in dropouts? The bolts?
yup - got it
Cheers, Ralph. BTW Is it difficult and messy? Do I need any special tools?
big hammer and socket should be about right - same as servicing the hub. see the hope site for instructions on that
Thanks a lot!
Try this..
http://www.dtswiss.com/Products/Components2009/RWS/RWS-thru-bolt.aspx
I'm about to do the conversion on my Orange 5 but will need to wait a couple of weeks until Hope have more conversion kits ready.
Hey swede.
Just get the bolt in rear axle and the Hope bolts.
Much cheaper.
swat's on me Nomad. 😉
To confirm:
You can convert the Pro2 to take either a 10mm bolt thru, or a bolt-on (two bolts screw in from each side).
For the bolt thru option you can use either a 10mm DT RWS (which comes with the axle and a nut for the drive side, or a Hope 10mm Saint axle an old Saint mech, or Hope 10mm Saint axle and nut from the hardware store for the end.
10mm axle fits thru standard QR dropouts.
OK so I get the bolt thru option. But could you spell out the bolt on option for me?
SS Stu do you have a Hope 10mm Saint axle......and what?
Ed.
It's a bolt [b]up[/b] axle and 10mm bolts.
Different to the bolt [b]through[/b] axle. 😉
It was posted up earlier on in the thread.
rockthreegozy - MemberSaint axle is no use unless you use a Saint rear mech.
Axle
Bolts
[img] 
[/img]
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=11825 ]Axle[/url]
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18758 ]Bolts[/url]
This is the set up I used on my heckler (135mm spacing)with proII hubs:
This conversion kit:
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18761 ]10mm bolt through[/url]
This bolt:
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18759 ]hope 10mm saint bolt[/url]
and a track nut from my local halfords to tighten it all up.
Using the 10mm bolt through option means you could use the [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21670 ]RWS Thru bolt[/url] but at nearly £40 it struck me as a bit overpriced....
OK thanks I get it now. Stu that looks like the best value option you've got there. A good upgrade for the Mojo I think...
surely the flex is in your spokes, what tension have you set them to?
Ed.
Now i've shown you something easy to understand perhaps you could show me how to ride a complex problem like the steps of death. 😀
I'm sure we can sort something out Stu. I'll be in touch soon 🙂
picking up a new hope bolt up axle today - will report back
Just got it from 18bikes in hope (2 day delivery from order 🙂 ) looks beafy!
Ralph, did the bolts come with the axel?
Is it noticeably stiffer than qr?
yes and not sure yet - only fitted it yesterday. Ring si on 01433 621111 and ask fro the "Bolt up kit that now exists :)"
"I love it when a plan comes together"
[img] 
[/img]
the left hand bolt keeps coming undone - grrrr
Specialized SX Trail comes with a 135x10mm rear end with a hollow alloy bolt through bolt and nut. I use a Hope Hoop rear with the 10mm through axle mod. With this in mind, the Specilaized 10mm bolt should fit any 135mm rear dropout with no problem, as long as you have a sutable hub.
10mm 135mm BOLT THRU conversion, and an NC-17 10mm QR (from CRC) rather than the DTswiss one as its quite a bit cheaper.
£50 it cost me to get it all done and its made the back end of my pitch pro much stiffer.
job done
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31831 ]NC-17 QR axle[/url] from CRC
any idea where these are in stock?
[img] 
[/img]
i got one from CRC very impressive increase in back end stiffness on my kona quite light too
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31831 ]crc[/url]
Saint rear mech closeout at [url= http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/RD703A04-Shimano+Saint+Rd-M800+Rear+Drlr+135Mm.aspx ]Jenson USA[/url] for 12, yes 12 USD.
Are you a big heavy chap?
A flexible back end is not necessarily a problem. A bit of sideways deflection helps the rear wheel deflect a bit when whacked, a pseudo lateral suspension if you like?
Also, flexibilty in the hub is going to be a small component of the flexibility of the whole rear end.
Like some other poster put; check the spoke tensions? Check the trye pressures? Is the rim too narrow for the tyres you have? Check your main pivot bolts?
Just bougth the Conversion kit 10mm with bolt through and a DT Swiss QR axel not for any stiffening but because my rear QR combinations have not sured movement on my Orange Five. Think going up to floating 203mm rotors and M4's make the QR's shift. Hopefully the ratchet will make a bit of difference - didn;t want the bolts as want to still have teh QR functionality. Thats my Five pence anyhow. NOt fitted it yet - get it tomorrow hopefully.
I wouldn't touch the DT Swiss RWS system with a bargepole, they invariably strip the splines on the inside of the lever rendering the whole thing useless in a very expensive way, really, they are absolute cack.
Well looked at most peoples comments and most of the reviews of the DT Swiss RWS and they all say expensive but good - although with a plastic lever. I want to set it and forget it as have tubless so just still want a QR instead of a bolt through - if it breakes I'll get the NC-17 QR axle if needs be but I like to give things a chance even if a few people slag things off. I have bough a fair few thing in my time that people have stuffed up, broken or couldn't fit properly and have found them to work well and last! No disrespect BadlyWiredDog - I also do mostly XC and freeride and ride within my limits mostly so don't like crashing and wrecking my pride(s) and joy.
Unfortunately, it's not crashing that knackers the splines on the DT Swiss RWS it's just using the thing! Sod's law it'll go when you have a puncture miles from home too.
I went 10mm thru on my Hope 2, with a 10mm QR (similar to the picture above). Stiffer than normal QR, and it was cheap as chips.