Soz for the biggish pic but smaller ones didn't show the seal so well
[url= http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5197/6922102078_cd7e1018a0_b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/23823661@N05/6922102078/ ]shock seal3[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/23823661@N05/ ]scaredypants[/url], on Flickr
Can I shove this back into line easily or woh ?
(it's a RP23 shock on a trance x FWIW)
Air can service kit is what you need.. Plenty of instructions on how to do it on you-tube.
I wouldn't just push it back in, as if any grit has got behind it then it'll make a mess of the anodizing.
EDIT.. Mind you, it looks like it's been dribbling gunk anyway.. Might be best to just get it fully serviced.
looks to me like the gland it sits on may be distorted, if it is its new aircan time 😥
Cheers
just had it open - can seems fine, wiper and internal seals distorted and poorly seated. No damage apparent, but 👿
Change the main seals as well as it's likely to have become negativly charged and cause the wiper seal to do that.
main seals, Mr loco ? - is that as per the "easy videos" using the 15-20 quid seal pack or do you mean something more
(there was no stuck-down action going on, and the shock didn't try to compress itself when the air was released - is that what negatively charged implies ?)
Thats what mine did, with no apparant stuck down symtoms but it deformed the gland as well at the same time. never noticed until i tried to replace the wiper seal and it wouldnt seat square right around.
FFS !
you're only bloody well right - retaining lip is deformed
new aircan = how much cash ?
Not sure i bought a coil, think loco quoted about 50 quid for an rp2 can.
😥
Then of course you need a seal kit..
could get it done under warrenty if its still within it
It's around £35 for a standard air can and about £50 for a Kashima coated one.
The main air seal is the one on the seal head on the body tube, it's the biggest quad ring in the float air seal kit.
Probably be in touch Simon in that case, i might as well repair the one i have lying about 🙂
thanks seanodav
do you hold cans in stock, loco ?
(I thought the kashima stuff was on the shafts ??)
haven't been able to find out for sure but some googling suggests the shock is 184/44 - presumably shimmed from 190/50 - according to one person. I'm guessing that limits other options quite severely ?
Have some standard coat cans in stock atm, they do Kashima coated can too which are a little more 'slippy' as well as the body tubes.
what on earth is the point of coating this part, except to make it it "bling"? nothing touches the air can except air.
edit: no wait, the seal slides on the inside. so the inside is coated. brain fart sorry! still doubt it's noticeable, i'd get the cheaper can.
there's a larger surface area of seal touching the inside of the air can than touches the outside of the bodytube (although the piston glide ring and ifp seal do internally)
However it does make a difference I can full it too when fitting.
it does look rather good too on matching frames 😀
sorry loco, one further question - be warned, I'll probably be on the phone tomorrow as well 😳 :
Do you think this deformation of the internal lip is somehow possible just due to internal pressures or is it an initial assembly problem that becomes apparent when the shock pressurises enough to let the seals move ?
It's most likely that the shock has become negativly charged due to the main air seal failing for one reason or another (faulty seal/lack of maintainance e.t.c)
Without having inspected and disassembled the unit it is impossible to say for sure though