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Shimano ep8 motor. Cranks attach, on both sides, with same basic principle as a shimano hollow tech crankset. Central 'preload' bolt which should only be done up to a couple of nM (and on Shimano is plastic to stop you over doing it). Then a couple of pinch bolts on the crank to hold it onto the splines.
Should be simple enough, but it seems a few E*Thirteen cranks have been coming loose and the preload bolts falling off. So they issued a recall, upped the bolt torques slightly and advised thread lock on the (aluminium) 'preload' bolt.
I need to remove crank to remove motor to swap (interally routed) brakes on two bikes. First preload bolt comes off with some difficulty. Second the 6mm hex socket just completely rounds off. Looking at the two non-drive side ones, and the one I have managed to get off, whoever mounted used far too much thread lock and massively overtorqued - they've almost rounded them off putting them in. And the amount of thread lock used is ludicrous - see images for the one I removed (and this is after I'd chipped some off.
How the hell do I get it out? I've tried a reverse thread screw remover but no joy. Then drilled the hole out to 8mm, cut a thread and tried to red threadlock a bolt into it. But after 18 hours the bolt just undid - I thought red thread lock was meant to be impossible to remove without heat? Do I need to do some prep to a steel bolt and ally thread first?
Currently trying to superglue the bolt into the thread I've cut. It's going to be nightmare to Dremel it out. Yes, returning bikes to shop and making it their problem is likely next step but I'd rather get it done at home...
left hand drill?
Heat ,although maybe a hair dryer, not a heat gun
Hammer and Punch to drift it round? Once you break the threadlock it should undo reasonably easily.
Heat, though I'd probably also dribble in some Plusgas the day before. I'm not sure if Plusgas definitely works against Locktite (I imagine it should), but even if not it'll lubricate the rest of the threads.
I’m not sure if Plusgas definitely works against Locktite (I imagine it should)
I tried dribbling some superglue debonder round the rim of it but that didn't make any difference.
I don't understand why I can't get anything to bond strongly enough to the cap to get some torque on it. Trying superglue now (on thread and under the bolt that iv'e put into it)
I've taken out both non-drive side now. But there must have been c30degees of movement on the Allen key when I put it in. FFS. and on one there still seemed to be liquid thread lock so luckily it hadn't gone off properly.
Hammer and Punch to drift it round? Once you break the threadlock it should undo reasonably easily.
I would try this. Or, if you can hacksaw a slot in the face, you could probably use that to unscrew it.
@thois2
@sobriety
You win. flooded with acetone, heated with mini blowtorch (the blue on the crank is heat protector paste), another go at red thread locking a bolt in (and heating to set it) .
But hammering it round with a punch is what moved it. look at all the damn thread lock all over the crank though!
@b33k44
Nice Job! Percussion Engineering for the win 😉