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Attempted to fit new brake pads on hayes stroker trail at weekend but straight away it was obvious they weren't going to fit....correct brake pads but too thick. So on the front brake I put the old pads back in and pushed them back with flathead screwdriver and new pads just about fitted.
Ive never really fiddled with the brakes before so it was all trial and error but am I right in assuming when I pushed the pads back I was pushing the pistons back? How far can you push them back before damage is caused to piston? is it possible to file pads down very slightly so that they fit (Im assuming you shouldnt really have to do this if brakes are OK but when needs must....!).
Rear brake....was getting quite fustrated by the time I got to rear brake as foolishly thought it would be straight forward job this time (which I suppose it is if you know what you're doing!)but there was no chance new pads were going in no matter how far I pushed old pads back, was easy to slot one in but no room for second one. To cut a long story short the oil went everywhere and I've got no rear brake this morning!! I knwo what I've done so next job to learn is to bleed and fix brakes!
Questions...1. should the seals(I think thats what they are, round plastic ring on onside of main brake body that pads sit against) be flush with main brake body to allow new pads to fit?
2.what happens if I take these rings out and clean, will pistons retract enough to get new pads in?
3. is the only way to take out seals is by undoing bolt holding two halves of brake body together (resulting in brakes need 'fefilling')
Im sure I will have more questions later!!
Thanks
am I right in assuming when I pushed the pads back I was pushing the pistons back? How far can you push them back before damage is caused to piston?
Yes, leaving the old pads in and inserting a screwdriver is the safest way to push the pistons right back before fitting new pads. The alternative is to take the old pads out and use a plastic tyre lever, but this is much more fiddly and you run the risk of bending the little pillars on the pistons that retain the pads.
Too much meat on new pads is a common problem IME. And compared with my Shimano brakes, I find my Hayes brakes more fiddly to fit pads. The systems should re-adjust to the loss of a little oil I think - pump the lever [u]with everything fitted[/u] - does your lever pull right back to the bar? If not but you still have no braking force it probably means your new rear pads and the rotor are contaminated from the fluid leak 🙁
That's the limit of my experience. Hopefully a Hayes expert will be along soon.
Thanks Buzz
does your lever pull right back to the bar?
Yes, lever pulls right back to the bar and absolutely nothing happens! The caliper was disconnected before oil leak and pads weren't in so I dont think contamination. Sounds like a bleed and replenishing?
Havent bled brakes before but it seems quite easy (famous last words) but I'm just a bit concerned I'll still have same problem trying to fit new pads that just wont go in as seem too thick?
Is it easy to remove piston, clean then erassemble?
Thanks