Okay, I understand that there's overlaping ratios in double and triple setups, and I understand that by removing a chainring, mech and shifter, you save a little weight, but surely by adding something like a 42t rear spocket, a massive cage rear mech, and the requirement for a chain guide (not always, but often) that the weight saving is negligible?
Also, and this is purely a personal thing...but they look gopping, no?
There are a lot less design restrictions if you don't have to account for multiple chainrings, a front derailleur and somewhere to mount it.
1xX is a boon to folks who want short stays and fat tyres.
Also very good for designing rear suspension because you don't have to worry about mounting a front derailleur or the effect of different chainring sizes on bob.
It is personal. I think single front rings look way better than multiple, and so does a nicely designed chainguide.
It's not just about weight either, simplicity is a big factor, less bar clutter too with only one shifter. This is especially true with a dropper post as I can put my reverb button where the front mech shifter used to be under the bar.
A 1x will generally tend to be quieter too. Enjoy the silence..
Someone will be along in a minute to tell you it's only a fashion thing.. 🙄
Simplicity?
So much easier to maintain cadence when you're just shifting up and down a cassette rather than that horrible jump when you shift down the front ring.
by adding something like a 42t rear spocket, a massive cage rear mech, and the requirement for a chain guide
You don't have to add a huge rear sprocket. You only need a medium cage mech with one of those big sprockets. With a normal cassette you can run a neat little short cage mech. More often than not you don't need to run a chain guide if you have a narrow-wide ring and a clutch mech.
It's simpler, lighter and more intuitive to use. Plus you get fitter because you can't pedal uphill so slowly!
less crap to go wrong
Almost all of the frame damage I've ever sustained and most of the chain breakages have been due to shifting at the front. If I can get a usable range of gears without a front mech, that's pretty compelling.
I now use my dropper-post at least as frequently as I ever used my front shifter, so making space for that control is a real advantage too.
Ground clearance is a real thing.
Also, the riding I actually do has long since not really needed the very tall gears. I'm not absolutely sure whether I can do without the very low ones permanently yet.
🙂
I'm crap at setting up front mechs.Come to think of it I'm not great at the rear ones neiver.
I'll stick to single speeds.
Functionally there is no Advantage at all...
They were invented purely so a different halfwit (unable to use any of the internet's various search tools) could post pretty much the same question on this forum every week, and get the same answers as the previous Morons....
That makes you this weeks winner OP!
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Genuine question here: where do you lot who run single rings tend to ride? What are the gradients like?
I reckon it'd be a non-starter for me. I live on a 25% gradient, and I reckon I'd be as likely to make it up there on a 1x10 as I would on a single-speed (which I sold 1 ride after I moved here). There is basically nowhere remotely flat where I live
So… do you regularly ride up stuff like that? And if so, have you got thighs like Chris Hoy?
I saved 1.2 lbs by going from a 2x set-up with a chain device to a 1x with a clutch mech, narrow wide ring and a wee top guide. It runs quieter, smoother and although I initially looked for the lower gears sometimes, I was never actually forced to walk instead of riding, so I clearly didn't need them. I'd not go back.
I'm about to install my 1x10 setup in the next few days. My reasons for changing are pretty simple. I rarely use the granny ring. I will be able to position my Reverb lever, I'll save a bit of weight (not bothered), a lot quieter than my current 2x9 with roller tensioner, and the chicks love it*
*unconfirmed
Long cage mechs are not necessary to successfully go 1x10, a zee rear mech will work with a 40t sprocket, probably pushing it for 42t, though I am happy to be proven wrong.
+1 soulrider
For what it's worth, I didn't ever have functionality or reliability problems with front mechs but the bike runs more smoothly without it.
What are the gradients like?
Pretty steep in places around Aberdeen. My lowest gear now is equivalent to just a touch higher than the granny ring and second from largest sprocket, and I was running a 22t granny and an 11-36 cassette. You can cope with that without too much trouble. I'm running 11-42 and a 32t front now and it covers what I need no problem.
So… do you regularly ride up stuff like that? And if so, have you got thighs like Chris Hoy?
Yes to the steepness but it doesn't go on for that long around here because the hills aren't as high. No to Hoy-size legs but yes to bigger legs than many MTBers of similar height/weight.
I can see where Binners is coming from here. I ride a single ring set up (11-36T) as I get the benefits already mentioned (weight loss, simplicity, silence, under bar dropper). I don't regularly ride long/steep ups or terrain where I would spin out regularly so 2x or 3x is overkill. If I lived elsewhere I may have a different outlook (or probably just add a 40/42 upper sprocket).
Saves 15 seconds from cleaning your bike 😆
binners a 32x11-42 setup only loses you 1 or 2 granny gears, it'd be reet. Recently put a 1x10 on my CX bike and really like it, seriously considering switching to 32x11-36 when my current (brand new) 9spd drivechain wears, for local riding (will be keeping a granny ring on my lakes bike).
plain old sales guff.
I am just speccing a new build, trying to find some good quality cheap 9 spd stuff is getting a bit easier.......long live 1 x10 and 1 x11... 8)
binners a 32x11-42 setup only loses you 1 or 2 granny gears,
In rough terms I reckoned that I lost about 1-1/2 gears at each end, going to a 30t ring would make it one at the low end and two at the high end. I certainly don't miss the high gears and even as someone who only gets out once a week I can easily manage without the low gears. For me, the big sprocket adapter is definitely necessary, some of my much fitter mates can manage 32 front with 11-36 rear, but round here, I would struggle a bit.
to answer OP, lighter, simpler, no big ratio jumps, what's not to like?
Medium cage mech works just fine, and I only really start to miss anything lower after 6hrs+ when I'm knackered.
Genuine question here: where do you lot who run single rings tend to ride?
Dartmoor, and other local stuff, occasional trips to Wales or elsehwere...
What are the gradients like?
20%+ and rocky/slippy/pebbly etc.
So… do you regularly ride up stuff like that? And if so, have you got thighs like Chris Hoy?
Yes,no not really
34t front ring, 11-34 10speed cassette on HT, 11-36 on FS
36t front ring, 11-34 9speed cassette on XC race bike which to be fair is often ridden on slightly flatter courses, or when it is that steep it's not for long as the races are only ~1hr so MTFU for racing required.
*all 26ers
1x10 - nope
1x11 with a 30T ring - yes I think this would be better - but not enough to upgrade until my current drive train packs in.
One of my friends just bought a XL carbon 29er with 1x11 and a 28T chainring. The wopping frame and wheels with the minute chainring does look a bit odd.
Advantages (IMO, obviously):
Less to go wrong
Single ring set up looks better
Can 'hide' a right hand reverb adjuster under the bar on left hand side
Shorter cage rear mech possible (less chance of going into spokes and ballsing up the mech hanger - the true reason I went to 1x10 if I'm honest)
Quieter if run with a clutch mech
Makes your legs stronger
Moderate, but still worthwhile weight saving
Disadvantages:
You need stronger legs (see above)
Chainring wear accelerated
Might need to add a top guide (very small weight penalty)
Truth be told I went for 1x10 because I badly mangled my integral mech hanger by putting a long cage rear mech into the spokes under load. I figured that anything that could use a short cage mech would minimise any leverage of chain flap on the hanger, but more importantly the smaller the mech, the less chance of twotting it on something!
Most of my local riding is rolling hills with a few steep, but short bits. It hasn't hampered me on away days too much, though - you just need to adopt a 'shut up, legs' attitude.
I understand why people may want to go to 1 x 9/10/11... however what I really don't understand is why people would want to go from 3 x 9/10/11 to 2 x 9/10/11.
What is the reason for that? (slight hijack I know..)
i'm a luddite, in all the worst senses of the word.
i've learned to love the new 10spd shimano stuff simply because of the increased cable-pull; it's a much more reliable system.
while i'm still convinced that i don't need 10 gears (5 would be plenty) the new 10spd stuff is very reliable. and if the large + light cassettes grant one all the gear-range one desires, why not ditch the front mech?
...I really don't understand is why people would want to go from 3 x 9/10/11 to 2 x 9/10/11.What is the reason for that? (slight hijack I know..)
the 40+ tooth chainring is more or less pointless*; removing it allows you to shorten the chain, making it lighter and less flappy. And you can use a short or medium cage rear mech as you don't have to take up so much slack.
(*it only adds a couple of extra gears, and they're gears that you only need if you want to pedal to over 30mph - most people never do this. If you DO, then great, crack on, etc.)
old fashined 2x9 was just to get rid of the big ring which hooked up on steps and rocks and stuff, loss of top end speed was not really a worry. Newer 26/40 doubles with a wider cassettes are, I assume, just to reduce front end shifts.what I really don't understand is why people would want to go from 3 x 9/10/11 to 2 x 9/10/11.
surely by adding something like a 42t rear spocket
They're pretty cut out so they don't add a lot of weight and if you use one of adapters from Hope and the like then they're aluminium rather than steel anyway.
, a massive cage rear mech,
a 1x10 with 11-36 uses a short cage mech so shorter than a triple mech.
and the requirement for a chain guide (not always, but often) that the weight saving is negligible?
for those worried about weight, a NW chainring removes the need
Also, and this is purely a personal thing...but they look gopping, no?
How? Most people don't even notice. If anything they're that much neater since there's no front mech.
Or to put it another way, why don't you ride with a quadruple front chainset? Answer is obviously because there's no need and it would have downsides. That's the same answer for many people as to why they use a 1x
however what I really don't understand is why people would want to go from 3 x 9/10/11 to 2 x 9/10/11
that is a far far simpler question
When do you use the big ring off road?
Replace the middle with a 34T and fit a Medium cage rear mech
Job done
I am debating changing my girlfriends bike to 1x10. She doesn't really get on with the concept of gears and will get off and walk despite having gears left anyway, so it will simplify the issue.
However, the last time I changed something involving the gears on her bike, it went down like a Camelbak full of cold sick. Apparently removing the gear indicators (to get the brake levers inboard for one-finger braking) renders a bike unridable. So I am undecided.
binners a 32x11-42 setup only loses you 1 or 2 granny gears, it'd be reet.
Have you ever been out riding with me? 🙂
I'm quite surprised you only lose that, actually. I'd assumed it'd be more. I still think I'd struggle. As I know every ride from home starts on a 25% gradient, and when I've done however many miles I do, finishes on one too. Heres the profile of my road…
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How does that look on a 1x10? Its a bloody nightmare with a granny ring!!
Cheers everyone (apart from Cookeaa - you Sir, can go and swivel!)
1x10 because I can't be bothered setting up a front mech, and I've found I can ride everything my friends do on 2x10 whilst I'm on a 36t chainring. I am from Kendal so ride the Lake District and Scotland, some times Yorkshire. Done 35 mile rides across fells no problem, and never struggle on shorter ones really.
There is less to go wrong, they look better, and they force me to exert myself more, which I like. Yes I could get a 2x10 and sit and spin on the climbs, but I like to make my self feel sick...
11-36 cassette, and all is good.
Everyone is different though, people I ride with won't go 1x10, and I'd never go 2/3x10. Horses for courses and all that..
How does that look on a 1x10? Its a bloody nightmare with a granny ring!!
A 30T ring with 1x11 probably gives you the same gears as with a granny. 28T is probably even more (and too much)
Everyone is getting all huffy and defensive about their low ratios but is the high ratio enough? Do you not spin out going downhill?
Why not MTFU and go SS?
however what I really don't understand is why people would want to go from 3 x 9/10/11 to 2 x 9/10/11.
The reason I did this was because the only action my big ring ever saw was taking chunks out of the back of my calf.
I swapped my triple for a 2x9 (22/36) SLX chain set, complete with bash guard, and am now much happier.
I'd be interested in 1x9/10/11 however i'm not fit enough to do away with the granny ring yet.
Do you not spin out going downhill?
No, as far as I remember, dropping the 44T, and going up to a 36T on the middle only looses you 2 or 3 gears...
The reason I went 2x was I kept bending teeth on the 42 so went bash/36/24 with 11-34 cassette.
Now running bash/36 with 11-40.
The way I look at it is the only reason behind the large ring and granny existing was because they could not generate a full usable range of gears with only a single ring and cassette.
Now they can, thus rendering the front mech obsolete .
As soon as you can buy a 10-42 11 speed cassette for £50 I think front mechs will be a thing of the past for many people on here.
Binners' graph looks more like 10% not 25%. Plenty of hills in-between these gradients on SDW here with 30T 11-36 on 26"
Do you not spin out going downhill?
No, it's almost always possible to avoid descending anything open enough to need gears that high around here. The good stuff, there's no way you are pedalling. In some places I can see an issue though, but you aren't losing all that much really.
Why not MTFU and go SS?
Because there's a very big difference between the 20" ish lowest gear on a 1x10 with a 42t sprocket and the 50" ish single gear on a SS and there's no way I could push one single gear everywhere.
I'm a complete lightweight, and have always been a "spinner" and not a "slogger", but even i am managing fine with 1x10 using 32 front, 42 rear. It's only a gnats whatsit off the 24/36 i had before (when i was 2x10) and so far, the only time i'm going fast enough to "spin out" is downhill on road, when frankly, i enjoy not pedaling for a bit 😉
If i were doing multi-day adventuring with a heavily loaded bike/pack, somewhere hilly like scotlandshire, i'd probably put my 2x10 back on, but other than that, i'm enjoying, and staying 1by 😉
Binners' graph looks more like 10% not 25%.
You sure? You're welcome to come and try riding up it on a single speed? Then when you've got to the top, you can tell me its only a 10%.
One weekend in October, people from all over the country come to do this….
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You should come and give it a go 😉
Binners CBA checking now but my current setup is 9spd 22/32x11-32 and using sheldons gear calculator pretty sure I figured switching to a 10speed 32x11-42 just lost me the lowest gear. If you're running an 11-36 cassette with a double/triple you may lose more than one gear.
How often do you ride? I was working on a theory that people get used to their local trails and after a few weeks could probably adjust to 1x10/11 setup for their local riding but struggle with steeper stuff. So people who live in the flatlands would struggle when they go somewhere hilly, lakes locals would only struggle if they went to the alps and alps riders would be demigods 🙂
Just an idea and based on regular rather than occasional riders, thought you were a regular commuter, maybe it doesn't work like that.
Soz but 900 horizontal m divided by 90 vertical is ... 10.
Anyway, no ta to SS but 1x10 will be fine.
Rake Hill?
Length: 875 metres
Height Gain: 98 metres
Average Gradient: 11%
Max Gradient: 22%
Yeah, not impressed with the 25% *road* excuse to be honest.. 😉
I miss the top gears more than the bottom of the road, but it takes a bit of mental adjusting to not to race along and chill out.
How often do you ride? I was working on a theory that people get used to their local trails and after a few weeks could probably adjust to 1x10/11 setup for their local riding but struggle with steeper stuff
Donk - I reckon that might have been the case 20 years ago. Oh that it still was. 😥
Now I'm just fat and unfit, no matter how often I ride (I do ride a lot - 30-odd miles today, by the time I'm home). My problem is that its that kind of hilly all around me, so I just thought I'd struggle with the 1x10. Even with the ratios as described. Its alright saying I could get up that with a 1x10. But what about the one after that? And the one after that? And….
Edit: And to those [s]Pedantic bastards[/s] quoting the gradients figures. My point is this. Its psychological as much as anything. You go and ride 20-30 miles, up some big hills, get to the bottom of your road, then look up that ****er. Believe me, that would be when you're asking 'would a granny ring be a good or bad thing in this circumstance?" I reckon I could guess your answer 😉
I don't just ride up the Rake every once in a while. As well as stuff like Rooley Moore Road, I do it all the time. And I'm just being honest and saying I reckon 1x10 would lead to my premature death with a massive coronary!
The first couple of rides, your left thumb will occasionally wave around where the front shifter used to be, then you'll push your rear shifter again, just to be sure you don't have a gear left, then you just get on with it and it's fine. After the first couple of rides you don't ever notice other than you are slightly quicker up hills than you were. It never actually gets to be a problem. Whether the advantages are enough that you'd prefer it overall, only you can tell, and even then, only after trying it for a bit.
BTW, on my 1by setup i still have a "granny ring". It just happens to be large and fitted at the back, rather than small and fitted at the front....... 😉
I may be pedantic (if that's what you call being able to do arithmetic), but it's not me whingeing about being too fat and lazy to ride up hills in challenging gears in an effort to not be, err, fat and lazy :smilie:
Edit: And to those Pedantic bastards quoting the gradients figures.
hi! 😀
My point is this. Its psychological as much as anything. You go and ride 20-30 miles, up some big hills, get to the bottom of your road, then look up that ****er. Believe me, that would be when you're asking 'would a granny ring be a good or bad thing in this circumstance?" I reckon I could guess your answer
My answer would be "right then, I'll 'ave you this time Hilly boy!" I flippin hate having to get off and push and love a good climb 🙂
That's it in a nutshell though, it is psychological, but I bet you could do it if you were in the right frame of mind!
I went 1x10 because I'm a tart and thought it would look nice. With a weekend in Wales looming, including riding Snowdon, I'm beginning to think I'll regret that decision.
I have 11-36 on the back and just went from 34T to 30T on the front in the vain hope it might help. All this talk of 42T on the rear isn't helping 🙂
Genuine question here: where do you lot who run single rings tend to ride? What are the gradients like?
No idea what the gradients are but my typical locations are Quantocks, Mendips, Bristol, Dartmoor, Plym/Cornwall. That's with a 34t x 11-32t. Also went to Afan for a weekend not too long ago and didn't feel undergeared.
The only issues I find with steep gearing & steep gradient combo is keeping traction which means I have a minimum speed to maintain otherwise i'll wash-out on a pedal-mash. That, and blowing up somewhere near the top of Weacombe hill.
Makes sense coming from SS.
I have a SS road/cross type thing which takes gears. Commutes more than it does anything else. I stayed SS 48/16 for a while, then put a cassette on the back for a Guildford - Brighton, Downs link/SDW ride. Moved house to the top of a hill shortly after and kept the gears on. SS would have been doable, but sometimes you want to twiddle after a long day at work/feeling ill/ carrying a load of shopping.
Just gone 10 speed so I can get a clutch mech and ditch the not-always-that-secure Paul's chainkeeper.
I'll stick knobblies and a smaller chainring on every now and then for longer off-road rides (hilly 100 miler coming up), but I like having less faff, so I probably won't get a double unless I go loaded touring.
Also went to Afan for a weekend not too long ago and didn't feel undergeared.
Afan isn't that bad at all though, Whites Level/Wall is doable in the big ring quite easily (apart from one 20m stretch that is a pig in the big ring but still doable).
I reckon there's some truth to it being what you're used to, if you ride in a hilly place you get used to it, stay on the flats or do mostly trail centre climbs (decent surfaces and overall not that steep or long) and you'll struggle when you're on natural and steeper trails.
You would be surprised what you can do if you except a little more pain.
Not so long ago I fitted a mucky nuts to my chainstays to shield the front mech.
Out on a local ride started up a hill dropped into the granny to here horrendous noise from chain rubbing the muckynuts.
Went back up to the 36 fully expecting to not make it as had never tried to get up that hill out of the granny, but suprisingly did and did the rest of the ride without the granny.
There was nothing mega steep or long but I would normally use the granny often when I discovered I did not have to.
So what it boils down too is the fact that you're all clearly mental, and have recently developed a new found masochism? 😀
Anyone considered the long term consequences that pushing big gears will have on their knees, your muscles will adapt but will your cartilage?
So what it boils down too is the fact that you're all clearly mental, and have recently developed a new found masochism?
Mental maybe, but I've always been this way it's not a recent thing! Some of us were running 1x8 and 1x9 before it was a 'thing', it's actually a lot easier now with bigger cassettes.
I think you'd be surprised by what you could adapt/cope with, it's just too easy to bail out to the granny gear if you have the option.
Fashion.
I think 1x set ups look crap. Small chainring at the front just looks odd.
Anyone considered the long term consequences that pushing big gears will have on their knees, your muscles will adapt but will your cartilage?
You could well be setting yourselves up for premature onset of osteoarthritis.
Oops sorry, double post.
Source? SSers would presumably be at much bigger risk so you're mentioning that to them, I assume?
Besides, most of use are losing top gears that we don't use rather than easier ones.
So what it boils down too is the fact that you're all clearly mental, and have recently developed a new found masochism?
I've been running 1x8 for ~8years. Before that, 2x7 and I only used the granny ring for doing flatland/trialsy stuff.
One weekend in October, people from all over the country come to do this….
To ride their bikes and smile? And he's not even on a fatbike!!
Source? SSers would presumably be at much bigger risk so you're mentioning that to them, I assume?Besides, most of use are losing top gears that we don't use rather than easier ones.
Not got one it was just a thought.
I would presume the more pressure you put on your joints the more wear they will see, could be wrong I'm not a doctor or anything.
Yes presumably ss would be more at risk, I thought I'd ask on this thread as I have no interest in ss threads, sorry if you thought I'd singled 1*10 out.
Isn't there a doctor in the house?
So what it boils down too is the fact that you're all clearly mental, and have recently developed a new found masochism?
Yes. And that I'm inherently lazy but also impatient - so going without the lowest gears stops me from getting too unfit due to lazily twiddling up climbs and also gets me to the top quicker so I can fit more descents into a ride.
It can be somewhat challenging. If I lived somewhere with proper mountains and/or sometimes thought "[i]bugger, I'm going to have a heart attack if I don't change gear[/i]" I'd probably have a granny ring.
🙂
I'm starting to suspect that SRAM developed XX1 because their front mechs are a bit shit.
There is only a psychological component in all of this if you are weak minded. Otherwise it's just pedaling harder, or pedaling easier.
Afan isn't that bad at all though, Whites Level/Wall is doable in the big ring quite easily (apart from one 20m stretch that is a pig in the big ring but still doable).
I put that in as that's probably the longest hills I do. Quantocks are probably the hardest for me despite being considerably shorter though Dartmoor on a bad day can be worse on the flats.
Any of you guys ride in the lakes with x1 ? My 9sp double and bash drivetrain (36/22f, 11/34r) is on it's last legs and the lot needs replacing so seriously considering going x1 up front with 11/42 out back on my nomad. Just wondered if it'd be a step to far for me. All the trail centres I've been to (Gisburn, whinlatter, Glentress )I've never felt the need to use my granny ring but I certainly use it going over the passes in Cumbria.
It's not rocket science is it - work out the lowest gear you use/need on your 2x or 3x set up and see whether a 1x would allow for that. If not then stick with 2x or 3x
Nemesis +1
[i]Any of you guys ride in the lakes with x1 ? My 9sp double and bash drivetrain (36/22f, 11/34r) is on it's last legs and the lot needs replacing so seriously considering going x1 up front with 11/42 out back on my nomad. Just wondered if it'd be a step to far for me. All the trail centres I've been to (Gisburn, whinlatter, Glentress )I've never felt the need to use my granny ring but I certainly use it going over the passes in Cumbria. [/i]
But trail centres are 'designed' to be climbable by the majority of folk that go there, whereas the natural stuff isn't.
I'm in the Scottish Borders and could easily run a 1x9/10/11 setup if I just rode the trail centres and accepted that I'd be pushing more on the natural routes - but if I wanted to walk more...
1:10 / 1:11 isnt for me I like my granny gears to much and my big gears. If it works for you great, but judging by the number of people I see pushing up trail centre climbs ( new cwmcarn trail comes to mind ) I reckon some people are buying into it because of fashion rather than something that works better.
It's not just a matter of gears though. I run a double (+bash) on my Five with 24/32 and 11-36 out back. I like the fact that I can change the way the suspension behaves by shifting the front. I can have the same gear with the suspension fully active or almost locked out and sometimes I like the way it digs in when on the granny.
I have 1x10, 11-36. Nothing to do with "fashion". Riding in the granny is so slow it's almost pointless and you don't need the "big" ring. 1x just makes sense.
"Genuine question here: where do you lot who run single rings tend to ride? What are the gradients like?"
Im using a 1x10 for guiding in the Spanish mountains. Max gradient is about 15% but mostly less than 7%. Daily gains in the region of 1,000m to 1,500m.
Chain/ring/block wear. I ran one for 2 years, using 2 chains on rotation (KMC and Shimano back to back test ;0)). The rivets were not that worn really, just beyond "replace the lot". Which I did when one of the chains finally broke. But Id say thats a pretty good lifespan given that I am riding about 150km per week on it and grinding up to the top of mountains..
Reasons for using. One less thing to wear out/maintain. Dont need the granny ring, the ratios I have are good to go. I can run a short cage mech and a really closed in top guide and bash ring, so I never ever drop the chain. Its a really neat setup for hammering around the rocky singletrack..
I might get a smaller chain ring one day (currently 32T) but im not going to break the bank for it. I reckon it would be good for technical climbing, Id be in the middle of the block so less tension on the mech when the suspension compresses.
IMO the rehash of gears is a great step forward for off road bikes.
Here's another reason to ditch the big front ring perhaps...
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Folks saying it's a fashion thing, I remember when the fashion was for as many gears as possible.
Mountain bikes used to get billed higher with the more gears they had...
It's not a fashion thing for me anyways. I use my one full suss bike for most of my riding including dh uplift days. No way I'd use a big ring for that and risk cutting my leg off...
bjj.andy.w I ride the lakes on 1x10. I don't just ride trail centres (hate them to be honest). Get every where with a 36 front, although I have just bought a 32t because my rides are getting longer and I like to keep energy.. I don't push and will always ride what everyone else rides.