Following a thread on a FB page, discussing fitting an internal dropper to a Mk1 swift, I am quite tempted to get the drill out and fit one to my drop bared swift. Then using the left hand brifter to control the dropper as I'm running 1 chainring. Any tips/suggestions on if this is a good idea, and what's the best way to go about this. (drilling at an angle to allow hose to slip through etc).
I used these when I drilled a frame out. Small drill hole is a nightmare to feed cable so make an elongated hole and fit these
I drilled 2 holes close together then use a file to join them up to create elongated hole then bought some grommets to seal it.
like the look of those grommets and drilling two holes better than one.. thanks
Yeah, those grommets plus one links to.
I drilled,I think my fourth frame last week.
I had a Calibre Dune fatbike with no internal routing and fitted a stealth Brand-x.
It's pimpsy if you take your time.
I did a thread on it 4 years ago when I did two steel hardtails.
https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/drilling-a-steel-hardtail-for-a-reverb-stealth/
I did the same on my on-one Codeine. No regrets, 30 minute job.
Used the same grommets as above.
I didn't do the tidiest job but the grommets hid the poor drilling.
Was a pack of three so you're welcome to have one gratis, just pm me.
Yep, I've done a couple of alloy frames over the years. I used to do something similar a fair amount to aluminium dinghy masts, and it's worth thinking of a couple of things before starting, as holes in stressed tubes can be a bit unforgiving if you botch it. I've seen a few unstayed masts (mostly on Europe dinghies) fail where someone had carelessly wanged in a hole to pop rivet on a gooseneck. Expensive.
* Two-holes-and-join-it-up method is great if you don't have a template or jig. Definitely play around with a bit of stiff plastic first and make a template the grommet will fit in neatly.
* Try to avoid doing it in line with the line of the frame - ie right at the front of the seat tube or at right angles, where plenty of pedalling forces go. Think about where the forces are going. Looking down from the seated position on the bike, the thole's probaby ideally going to go in at 45 degrees off straight ahead
* Think about cable routing first - it'll give you a rough point to aim for when selecting a place to put the hole
* I made up a template from a stiff, flexible bit of plastic first to check the grommet would fit and ensure I could get it right first time
* Try it on a steerer offcut a couple of times first - it helps you get your eye in. If you're not a pack rat dork like me, ask your friendly local bike shop, or find an old handlebar you don't mind junking.
* File off sharp edges, avoid sharp corners - you want a sasage shape, not a rectangle, as that can cause stress risers
* Be careful to remove burrs.
* If it's steel, use nail polish or paint to seal off the edges
This link probably tells the tale better: https://www.peterverdone.com/drilling-holes-in-perfectly-good-bike-frames/