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hi all, going to give SPDs a go again for the first time since I had some of those red dx m636 things a long time ago.
I've got some mavic Alpine xls second hand and some M530 trails pedals. Just wondering about float, position of cleats on the shoe and so on.
I've put the cleats right at the back of the shoe and it seems like there is alot of float in the pedals , I can turn my ankle both ways quite a bit before unclipping.
Any thoughts on setup? I'm going to test them for a good few rides too before deciding if I'm going to keep them.
Ta in advance
I've just done exactly the same, did the tension up to max, accepted I'm likely to do the whole failing to unclip wobble and fall. 1 ride in its like I never stopped using them. It just all came back to me..
I guess the fall will happen soon though. Really pleased I tried them again
The normal advice is to locate the cleats so the ball of your foot is over the pedal axle. I don't think there's anything you can do about float on SPDs.
The other thing you have control over is spring tension, or how easily the cleats disengage. Many beginners go for very low tension but I find this produces a very vague feel that makes it harder to tell whether or not you're currently clipped in. I'd suggest having at least enough spring tension to ensure the clipping in and out occurs with an audible click.
Beyond that, as justaname says, a few comedy SPD moments are inevitable. Be prepared at times when they'll cause maximum mirth as that's when they'll happen. For best results try doing them in front of a car park full of other MTBers or in front of children young enough to point and laugh at real life slapstick without guilt.
Actually, also don't try and ride like you're in flats. They're different techniques so try and embrace the differences. (Not that I can do that when I try riding in flats.) Try not to unclip as you get to technical bits, take advantage of the foot/pedal interface being reliable and worry about something else instead. 🙂
I'm still riding those old red 636 DX Spds and newer SPDs and flats.
nothing has really improved or changed in SPD technology in 15 years. infact, if anything my old DX pedals are better than newer SPDs.
Chris. Why on earth do you say not to try and ride like you are on flats?
You shouldn't be removing a foot on flats approaching "technical bits" either.
there are advantages and disadvantages to both flats and SPDs but there is a huge crossover between getting the best from both and only a very slight adjustment to riding technique is required to switch from one to the other.
mtbel - Member
I'm still riding those old red 636 DX Spds and newer SPDs and flats.nothing has really improved or changed in SPD technology in 15 years. infact, if anything my old DX pedals are better than newer SPDs.
Newer SPDs have more holes in the pedals that prevent them from clogging with mud. Well I say new but I guess the M540s must be 10 years old now. I remember having to clear M424s and M515s of mud and snow/ice, that's rarely been an issue with the newer design.
Chris. Why on earth do you say not to try and ride like you are on flats?
You shouldn't be removing a foot on flats approaching "technical bits" either.
Mainly because of the things [some] people who ride flats and don't want to ride SPDs have said [in my presence]. 🙂 Quite a few of them seem inclined to stick a foot out on occasion in a way that I don't find useful with SPDs.
The normal advice is to locate the cleats so the ball of your foot is over the pedal axle
For road riding, or pootling, yes. For technical riding you need to be able to drop your heels, so as far back as possiblr is want you want. A lot of elite riders take a dremel to their shoes to get them further back still.
Wow! Chris, that reasoning is so utterly nonsensical it actually blows my mind! 😯
have you ever thought about why they drop a foot?
is it to add counter weight to aid grip or is it simply a safety mechanism as they are not 100% confident in holding their line?
@rickon thanks yes thats my reasoning in moving the cleats all the way back, for ankle dropping and proper bunnyhops too.
I'll play around with the tension, it seems silly loose now
The new M530s have less metal in touch with the sole of the shoe compared with the old Red/black DX pedals. It has enough metal to be able to flip the pedal for easy cleat engagement and provide enough support if you can't quite get clipped in quick enough.
Remember to press down and twist to release. Resist the temptation to pull up and out.
I'd echo the 'stay clipped in on technical sections' bit.