[Closed] Enduro S-works weight

Lose the reverb/belly/entire thing and get a stoopidly light, horrible to ride rigid singlespeed xc bike with carbon everything (yes, including saddle).

Is weight [i]really[/i] that important?

Wheels, tyres, cassette, mech, cranks, bars.

Stop moaning..I'd cut my right leg off to own that. It's bloody lovely!

Ti bolts throughout will shave off a few grams.

Get rid of the heavy forks and uppy-downy.

Or get some more flattering scales.

[b]OR[/b] as dingabell said

Stop moaning....It's bloody lovely!

Swap the 36's for something lighter, maybe 150mm Magura's/Revs?

Ashima rotors.

What size is it, and weighed with pedals?

Eat less pies

Seriously...it's cheaper to lose weight from you than the bike

But if you insist...lose the reverb and put some skinny tyres on it. XTR throughout and carbon wheels.

Easy

I'm not moaning, I do love it, it rides better than any bike I've had.. Just surprised at the weight as I've spent a wedge already. And lots of talk online of these bikes weighing 27lbs, suppose it shows you have to spec high end for every parts to achieve that.

Realistically will look at the cranks next, but will have to wait a bit for funds..

As above, plus....

29lb isn't heavy for a 6" AM bike.

Nice looking bit of kit though pal

My 2004 (non-S-Works). Great D/H, but a bit of a pig uphill

[img] [/img]

My 2008 S-Works. Great allrounder, but not quite as surefooted D/H - climbs great though!

[img] [/img]

Something different next time though

Sub 28 for mine but
34 forks
Stans arch rims revs stans hubs
Easton havon carbon bars
SRAM carbon cranks with bling ring hope bb
Sworks captain tyres
Xtr 10 speed
Tundra saddle with ti rails

It's stunning and made me think it might be time to sell several of the other bikes

Is that green one above not 2005-2005 ?

stop showing me pictures of that s-works!! 🙂

I'll swap you for my Camber, which weighs in at 27.5lb.

It's a 160mm travel bike with an adjustable seat post, Minions and Fox 36s, so getting it under 30lbs is a minor miracle. Just enjoy it.

If not then my offer stands 🙂

M5 enduro pro 2011 33.3lb XL frame.

I'm happy with build as I went for affordable robust parts.

Fork: Rock Shox 2013 Lyric dual position
Wheels: Hope pro 2 on EN521 tubeless Hans Damp
SLX cranks/ front mech
Formula RX brakes
Reverb post
SRAM X9 shifters/ rear mech
Kore Torrsion bar
Truvative stem and saddle
Sram pg980 cassette
X9 SL light chain
Time X control pedals

I weigh over 100kg in riding gear so no carbon for me. I'm very happy with it and I'm in no hurry to upgrade anything. Everything works and works very well.

Don't go silly with the weight its great as it is, just enjoy riding it. Lose a few lbs from yourself by riding more, a sure way to go faster!

will losing a lb make any difference? Doubt you'd even notice it.

I have the alloy version, don't give weight a second thought when picking the bits, as long as it gets me up the hill I'm happy. Comes in at a jumbo 34 lbs ish. Makes me earn my downhills 🙂

Foam grips will save 50 - 100g over lock-on grips for less than a tenner.

As per other posts, then look at SLX cranks, Fox 36's, handlebars.

Fox 34's save half a pound on 36's, XTR cranks probably save a similar amount over SLX.

Is that green one above not 2005-2005 ?

Yeah, think it was - I stand corrected on my own bike 😳

I was not trying to be rude just I've had 2 2004 sworks enduro and 1 2004 expert and still have a 2003 sx enduro

Oh god now I look like an anorak
There was a big change from 2004 model year to 2005-2007

Didn't think you were being rude orangeboy - might have even been an '06 actually

I Wouldn't try to make it much Lighter. Seems just right to me. Too light and I find I lose stability at high speed and hitting jumps I.e cwmcarn hip jump, a light bike and a bit of wind and I get blown well of track.
Try some tyres circa 750gs. Could drop almost a pound there. It will climb better too.

My 2007 S-works is a little lighter than yours OP based on VIPR & Devilles build. Yours is seriously nice though!

What size is yours OP? Also, the new one in 29'er flavour would be heavier with a like for like build!

That is a beautiful bike OP! Have a poo and get on with it.

Is the extra 453g holding you back? You must be gutted.

Half arsed effort so far. Time to spend some real money.

Enve bar, Light Bicycle AM rims, XX cassette, Butcher Control tires etc.

36's to 34's
XX1 or XX single ring
Get shot of the minion
Carbon the hell out of the rest
Keep the mud off it
Buy an XC bike?
Just try riding it?

Mind you I'm planning to get a Blur LT to that weight (ali one) but with some nice SRAM drivetrain (X9/X0) bits and less tyres but 160mm up front.

Mine weighs in at 27.5lbs

[img] [/img]

Dont think I would change anything

Thanks for the comments, all appreciated...

for some background - I’ve gone from a carbon xc/trail bike and a heavy AM/mini dh bike down to the this enduro for a 1 bike solution. I know there is always a compromise, but thats why im looking to cover all bases...

I like to enter XC marathons as well as gravity enduros so that’s why i'm looking to get the best balance.

Interestingly my strava time of a full loop of cwmcarn xc on the enduro (then fitted with heavier flow/pro2 hoops) is just over a minute longer than it was on my 26lb yeti asr5c. Not lots of difference, so was pretty chuffed how quickly the enduro rides. Perhaps that is why I was expecting the weight figure to be lower.

just looking at the sram xx1 crankset, seems very good value (under £200) compared to XTR.... anyone tried xx1 cranks?

just looking at the sram xx1 crankset, seems very good value (under £200) compared to XTR.... anyone tried xx1 cranks?

I think you might need to run the XX1 back end to go with it

No you don't.

That said, they wouldn't even be on my radar, even if I wanted XX1, i'd still run Shimano cranks. GXP is rubbish & if all the carbon cranksets I see out there, I see way too many broken SRAM ones.

There are better places to save weight that the crankset initially, even if they do scream 'budget' on something carbon 😉

Guys at my LBS said it runs with shimano 10 speed chain no problem. They also said with a rear clutch mech you can get rid of the chain device due to the taller chainring teeth? sounds good though..

Mine is an Alu XL with Marzocchi 55Ti's, hope hoops with Flow rims, tubes, Renthal DH bars and a Reverb dropper, and it comes in at 32lbs. I'd be thrilled with 29lbs I don't think its worth compromising the way it rides to get it lighter thank that. Anything under 30lb is wonderful - I don't think I've ever acheived it. It takes a lot of money to get under 30lbs I think.

That said I think I know how I could do it, Crossmax ST's would save a lot of weight but I would want wider rims of the SLX which would reduce any possible saving, going tubeless would help too, as would replacing the SLX cranks with XTR's and putting some lighter wide bars on, that would probably get me close. Not sure its worth it thought 🙂

This is the spec on mine

REAR SHOCK Fox RP23-S

FORK Specialized Future Shock E160TA,carbon steerer/crown

STEM Syntace F109

HANDLEBARS Specialized Enduro low-rise bar, uni-directional carbon

GRIPS Specialized lock-on

BRAKES Custom Avid XX

FRONT DERAILLEUR SRAM X.0, 10-speed

REAR DERAILLEUR SRAM XX, 10-speed

SHIFT LEVERS SRAM X.0, 10-speed

CASSETTE SRAM XX, 10-speed

CHAINSRAM PC-1090, 10-speed

CRANKSET SRAM X.0 Carbon, 10-speed AM double

WHEELS Roval Traverse SL

TYRES Specialized Clutch Control, Purgatory Control,

SEATPOST Specialized Command Post

SEAT Specialized Jett

PEDALS Specialized Enduro

Hans Dampf tyres tubeless would save you some weight. 34s might save weight too, but they'r just not 36s, are they?

Normal Renthals are heavy things, dunno how much lighter yours are. Cassette might save a chunk too.

TBH thogh, tyres aside, you're into the space where shaving weight means either big bucks, or using bits that don't really suit a 160mm bike.

New pike would save you a 1/2 pound

Tracey, I would guess your bike is closer to 28lbs 8oz with pedals.

Still like to see some evidence of pictures/scales for these sub 28lbs Enduro's.

Was weighed before I bought it.

Seems a pound out from bike rumour, usually the pedals that are missed:

http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/07/15/2011-specialized-mountain-bikes-actual-weights/

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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/80802903@N08/8888306161/ ]Weight[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/80802903@N08/ ]dan45a[/url], on Flickr

Swap the 36's for something lighter, maybe 150mm Magura's/Revs?

Please don't take this advice.

Your bike is a great weight for what it is. CCDB and Reverb are not light.

It's never going to be an XC marathon bike, why do you only want one bike? Space limited?

Maybe get a s/h Anthem or similar for your XC racing?

mr plow

Interesting, but as you say still not real world (without pedals etc).

I think 29lbs is a fantastic weight for what is a very bombproof bike for most types of riding. You could save a bit on the tyres and by going for a 34mm fork (or the new pike) but it's not going to add up to much really.

My 2012 is just under 29 on bathroom scales so give or take in the same ball park as expected. The CCDB will be heavier whan my float etc. Would not get too wound up by it as my bike still feels pretty light to me at this weight as I am used to it's heavier brother. Your build looks ace and you will so get too cocky on it and be watching it rolling down a rocky hillside. At this point you will be glad you never spent more on lighter parts

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My Sworks epic in XL with crests and a reverb is 25 odd I think that's a good weight given the ability of the frame and kit mate!

Out of curiosity I will re-weigh mine. I think OP the biggest change for you is out and out XC build wheels and tyres for your XC marathons using Stans and non-tubeless tyres. That should get some weight off!

Interesting, but as you say still not real world (without pedals etc).

Weight loss without performance loss at a sensible price-

Carbon bars
Renthal non lock-on grips
Xtr m970 cranks
Works components XX 'copy' chainring and clutch mech so you can lose the chain device.

Otherwise I'd leave it exactly as it is!

I would ride the pants out it until it has some scratches, you will stop worrying about it then.

mr plow - it does already, if I keep going out riding at this rate I could end up divorced 😕

Deew - sound like sensible upgrades to consider..thanks.

The forks on mine weigh alot less than my old Lyrik 2 step airs and perform alot better than them. So much so that the Lyriks on Kevins S Works build are going onto Abigales Reign for the Alps and a new set of Futureshock 160s are on the way from the States at a bargain price.

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Thats lurvely! Very tempted to upgrade mine.

My 2010 Enduro weighs in at a hair under 30lbs (with pedals), built with a set of Fox 36 160mm Vans, reverb, tubeless, m4's and some carbon bits, and in my mind its the forks that are the cherry on the enduro cake 😀

I'm having trouble leaving it for another bike.

Thinking about putting some 160mm Kashima Talas 36's and a Float CTD on my S-Works

Completely sensible build at a completely sensible weight. Don't **** with it. Bars and grips could lose a decent amount with little or no compromise. Tyres maybe, depends what version they are. Tubes?

That makes me feel better about my 2011 comp weighing 31.5 lbs!

Swap the 36's for something lighter, maybe 150mm Magura's/Revs?

chakaping

Please don't take this advice.

I would agree with chakaping here 100%, and also take umbridge with people advising you to go for 34s. That's some very bad advice. Fox 36s are vastly superior to their 34 counterparts, and virtualy any comparable fork, not just in terms of stiffness but also in terms of damping. The 200grams or so difference could easily be saved elsewhere. I've got 2012 36 fit rlc talas with kashima coating and they blow every other fork out of the water. It's a massive down grade.

You could get a selle slr tt saddle which will drop about 80 grams. That's half the difference in the forks. Also, if you really wanted to feel a difference fit some lighter rubber. Nobby Nic evo 2.25s front and rear for example would save you a pound or more straight away but it would feel like 3 or 4 as it's off the wheels and they are faster rolling (that's only if they're up to your riding). And if you were feeling really silly you could say, plash out on some Haven carbon wheels or something. I'd go full xtr on brakes and drivetrain but I really wouldn't change very much else. Lovely lovely bike.

would agree with chakaping here 100%, and also take umbridge with people advising you to go for 34s. That's some very bad advice. Fox 36s are vastly superior to their 34 counterparts, and virtualy any comparable fork, not just in terms of stiffness but also in terms of damping. The 200grams or so difference could easily be saved elsewhere. I've got 2012 36 fit rlc talas with kashima coating and they blow every other fork out of the water. It's a massive down grade.

It's a massive down grade

Doesn't matter. Performance is secondary to a number on a scale on this thread.

Thinking about putting some 160mm Kashima Talas 36's and a Float CTD on my S-Works

Bad idea.

My initial thought was to ditch the 36s too, but for 32s!

I don't doubt that 34s + 36s are stiffer and if Jimjam says 36s are better by far, then i'd believe him. But, here's the thing. I've a set of 32s on my Stumpy Evo and before riding the bike I was convinced they needed changing as my experience with 32mm forks at 150-160 length led me to believe they'd be terribly flexy (Dual Air revs). But they're not, they're far stiffer than the revs I had (tapered steerer must be doing something) and not the confidence vacuum i'd thought they'd be. Any flex (and there still is some) seems to be controlled to the point that it actually improves the front end feeling. I was surprised and impressed and i've currently no plans on swapping them for a more aesthetically pleasing fork. So if you're really wanting to shed a bit of weight, it might be worth considering.

p.s. Lovely bike 😀

Eh...... Wrong thread! Sorry! 😳

A wild stab in the dark, but i'm not sure a 150mm Fox 32 would be mated particulary well to a 165mm travel Enduro.

mikewsmith

Although they are not as stiff as the 36, that does not mean they are not stiff. Took a demo bike out with some 34's and was happy through the big boulders and baby heads. A great move by fox, the 36 is overkill for all but the most extreme stuff but there wasn't another option as the 32 was far too flexi in comparison.
The CTD damping has come in for a bit of a hammering recently, having ridden the 34 CTD I was impressed. There is some advice to add 15ml more float fluid in there to improve the feel which may sort a few of the reported issues. I'm speccing the 160 CTD with Trail Adjust on my new bike.

Each to their own mike, personally I found 34s way below par. the extra stiffness of the 36, plus the better damping, plus the near negligible weight difference means for me 34s are a pointless excercise in gram counting. I'm not doing "the most extreme" stuff, but I am pedaling up to ride down dh tracks. The type of riding the enduro there excels at.

You can also take into consideration the fact that most dh bikes are 20mm so any proper tough wheelsets you might have lying around are likely to be 20mm and if recall correctly 20mm hubs are actually a few grams lighter than 15mm 🙂

At the end of the day if the op is chasing figures on a scale then he should go for a lighter fork, but if he's chasing figures on a stopwatch (say at an enduro) then he'll be quicker with the 36's.

'A wild stab in the dark, but i'm not sure a 150mm Fox 32 would be mated particulary well to a 165mm travel Enduro.'

My 32s are 150mm but measure 163mm. That said i think the last 10mm of travel is just for show, as for the life of me, i can't get them to bottom out.

At the end of the day if the op is chasing figures on a scale then he should go for a lighter fork, but if he's chasing figures on a stopwatch (say at an enduro) then he'll be quicker with the 36's.

That's quite an assumption.

29lb is a stunning effort and well done for posting the scales pic.

I'm really sorry Tracey, but very skeptical of the weight of yours though (I'm sure you don't care though :P) – if it was weighed before you bought it, I'm willing to bet that was without pedals (add a pound) and probably a few ounces of rounding.

If you want to have a lighter fork than a 36 with same or better performance go for Bos Devilles - best of both worlds. Lighter than a 36, better damping performance than a 36 or 34 (the latter according to reviews...)and with a 20mm axle. Ridden 36's often and they are great but not quite as good as the Devilles.

I think the OP decided he was happy with the weight after all, didn't he?

If not - and if he's still reading - maybe have a look at the new RS Pike when it's available?

I'm beginning to think that the OP is barking up the wrong tree. 29lb for a 165mm do-everything bike is pretty darned impressive, especially one with a dropper post, 36s and durable tyres.

Don't forget that in the showroom, they're fitted with Spesh S-Works tyres which are very lightweight thanks to flimsy sidewalls.

FWIW, if you're thinking of spending a small fortune on a set of forks to bring the weight down by half a pound, then you maybe ought to consider buying a second bike?

Thanks again for the comments.

I've since taken the sworks for a couple more rides in this 29lb guise and its feels plenty quick enough going up, and very comparable in feel to some of 140mm trail bikes i've had, but so much more confident on the desents.

36's feel amazing coming from a trail bike with 32's. As suggested above RS Pikes could very well be a good middle ground with there low claimed weight but I'm not spending any more cash on it as I simply dont have it 😕

If I want to do a long punishing ride of distance I turn to my road bike... If I want to have fun for a few hours, then enduro is where its at 😀

Glad you are satisfied with your bike OP. it is a fantastic machine with a great build!