So, brand new Reverb Stealth.
I've fitted it, shortened the hose & done a remote bleed (no air).
At full speed, the post drops ok and does come up, but definately NOT with the speed of my old one, it probably takes about 4 seconds to rise.
At slow speed, the post won't drop.
If i wind in from full speed to slow speed the remote button winds itself in about 3-4mm.
I've checked, and put 250psi in it.
Yes, its brand new and i can send it back for warranty, but if i can sort it myself, i'd rather not have the down time.
I'm guessing a full bleed may be the next step. Beyond that it will be going back. But i thought i'd seek out any ideas from here first.
Ta
I’d start with a full bleed. I fitted a warranty brand new Stealth one this morning and it needed a full bleed.
That's not enough fluid in the remote system if the button is sucking in when you set it to slow.
Try another remote bleed but make sure its's set to slow when you do it. You shouldn't get more air out, but you should find you can make it take a bit more fluid.
Definitely air in the hose. Have you adjusted the speed adjuster in and out and depressed the button while bleeding it.
Have you adjusted the speed adjuster in and out and depressed the button while bleeding it.
No, just set to [i]slow[/i] as SRAM advise.
Yes, slow is correct during bleed. Full bleed will get rid of any air further up up the system towards the post. 5 min job.
Cool. I'll give it a go later. Many thanks.
As above, you describe air in the remote or hose. Bleed from both ends, and follow the SRAM instructions about orientation of the ports so all the air has a chance to come to the top of the bleed port.
If you're really paranoid about the being something wrong with the post, the remove the hose from the bottom of the post completely and activate the poppet with an allen key through the port. Careful as if the post is OK it'll fire out at a decent rate (if already compressed). This is how the bike yolk remote works with the reverb.
No, just set to slow as SRAM advise.
When you are pushing oil through adjust the speed adjuster from slow to fast and back to slow again. You will usually get a few air bubbles come out as its possible for air to become trapped inside the speed adjuster.
KerPow!
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Now performing like a male porn star on viagra 😀
So, like Viagra, the effects of a bleed wear off and it's back to square one.
I'm gonna try one more bleed before it goes back as I didn't have the remote higher than the post (stealth and not enough hose so I'll try with the bike laid down) and I didn't wind the speed adjuster during the bleed. My previous bleed didn't appear to push any air out and it did resolve the problem, but left overnight and the post is real slow to return at full speed and can't be dropped when in the slow speed position.
......:(
I had/have this with one of my (non-Stealth) posts. I was trying to swap a RH lever onto it from another post and no amount of bleeding and faff would get it working. As I understand it the lever I was trying to use was old silver collar type and there's something incompatible about them with newer posts. Anyway, stick the original lever back on, and end up with the same problem as above. Slow, the post won't go down at all. Fast and it barely comes back up. Bled half a dozen times, following SRAM instructions and their video. Done from both ends and just the lever.
The annoying thing is bleeding a Reverb I find oil leaks out of the syringe hose when pushing plunger down. That's having used two separate Reverb bleed kits. Makes a right mess.
I'm wondering about using a third party kit like Epic, though the syringe attachments look identical.