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I’d go for 2x electric shifting to help with the wrist. The SRAM allows fitting of blips or buttons to shift and these are very easy and can be positioned anywhere. Sprinters use them in the drops. I use them on the TT bike and also Di2 on the TT trike. You could fit the di2 TT shifters as bar ends if you’d like.
You’ll want some small chainrings for touring as you’re more than aware and you can always freewheel downhill. You won’t get the Rohloff range easily for 2x without big gaps.
Alfine hubs are available with di2 shifting from memory, if you'd rather stick with hub gearing
Alfine does not have the range required. On my long tour last summer I found the 500% range of the rohloff not really enough. I've set the overall gearing very low which meant almost no walking on hills but I did find on long gradual descents that I span out in top too easily. If I do another tour with big hills then I am going to try two chainrings 32 and 40 and use the rohloff tensioner which can cope with a 10 tooth variation
I ran an Alfine with a front mech. Some "Euro" bikes came like that as standard.
All those suggesting 1*
Is it only me that wears out chainrings much quicker on 1* systems......
I've done more than 1 tour longer than I've had single rings last .....and that's not discounting them losing alot of their NW retention capabilities long before that.
Worst culprit being my cargo bike. It got about 700k before the E13 ring bit the dust - suggests that high loads exasperated it.
All those suggesting 1*
Is it only me that wears out chainrings much quicker on 1* systems……
I’ve done more than 1 tour longer than I’ve had single rings last …..and that’s not discounting them losing alot of their NW retention capabilities long before that.
Worst culprit being my cargo bike. It got about 700k before the E13 ring bit the dust – suggests that high loads exasperated it.
I haven't done a long enough ride in one go but, from my ocd notes, I get at least 3,000km from a GX Eagle 32t chainring. That's mainly mtb use in the gritty Dark Peak. Squirt lube btw.
Also, my old Sommet EMTB had covered 3,000km when I sold it. Still on original 1x chainring (Shimano), but third cassette.
Anything stopping you just putting the shifter on the the left? Apart from a desire to shop for bike bits?
Not all 1x chainrings are made equal, which did you have? Whichever absolute black one I had was dropping chains in 5, admittedly high mileage, dry months whereas Works were good for over a year in all weathers. Aluminium, finish, subtleties of the shape I suppose all play a part.
If you’ve a raceface chainset their steel rings are solid and cheap. Sram do a 104 one but seemingly only in 34t which is a shame as otherwise I reckon they’d sell loads.
You suggested a 1x system on page one. What you are getting there is more complexity. Ie a whopping great rear mech that drags the ground nearly, a clutch and way too many sprockets, none of which will last long. Stick a double on and you can simplify that back end garbage. A front mech is the simplest, most reliable moving part on a bike and can only be a problem due to user error.
3x8 will give all you need with no big gaps in the gearing. Flat or drop bars. Althougfh I am a roadie at heart I think I would go flat for the big choise of hydro brakes.
3 x 10 xt ordered.
Doubt you'll regret it.
Meanwhile I just learned grx400 hydro has same lever and hood geometry as grx 800 but is 10speed.....
Albe it largely out of stock everywhere so possibly common knowledge in those that need to know
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