Forum menu
been running a rohloff gear for the last 2 years. been fantastic, but finding it very hard to change gears now due to a fused wrist. so gonna change my gearing on my fargo.
just wondering what to buy. need reliability first. nice low gears. nothing flimsy.
any idea's greatly appreciated.
12 speed so you've the widest range on the rear (e.g. 10-52) and then work out which size front ring suits you best.
I think you'll get loads of different opinions...
I'd suggest a Sram 1x12 MTB set-up at a GX level.
That would give you at least a 500% gear range over 12 gears. GX 12-speed chains last forever. Start with a 32t chainring and alter that if the range needs to be higher or lower.
You said "Nothing fancy"... I would suggest considering an "AXS" (electronic) set-up if your wrist is causing further problems. The wireless stuff is really effortless to change gear. You can shift across the entire cassette with one touch. All cable systems suddenly feel heavy and antiquated!
I'm assuming you are using flat handlebars, but my suggestion would still hold with dropped handlebars too.
*EDIT... just realised... you didn't say "nothing fancy". Must have been the voice in my head 🙂
Stick with 2x. Personally I rate XT as being the best balance of quality/weight/cost, though SLX is pretty much the same.
I have 50/34 (105) and 11-40 (XT) on the Amazon which seems to be "fast" enough for road sections and grindy enough for off-road, luggaged climbs.
Personally I would prefer a 2 x 9 or 2 x 10 set up for touring as the range of gears and chain wear is way better. I used 2 x 10 speed Shimano XT on my Fargo. I changed chain when it started to wear at 3k kilometres.
Might it be worth just going for a thumb shifter for the Rohloff hub?
I know they are expensive, but saves a huge change of kit...
Triggers for the Rohloff?
Surely you need to look at the electric shifting Rohloff E-14 adaption Ton?
I think you can add it as an alternative changer unit for the dropout and a push button handlebar mounted unit. As you've already got the Rohloff hub this has to be about as cost effective as buying a totally new drivetrain and a new rear wheel (or having the current one rebuilt).
looked at all the other shifter options. i think i fancy a change. want to try the fargo with gears.
Salsa Fargo...
What's the OLD on that? 135mm?
Might restrict your choices.
Is it just your right hand that is jiggered? I'd be looking at 3 x front gears and use your left more.
stanley
Full Member
Salsa Fargo…What’s the OLD on that? 135mm?
Might restrict your choices.
why ?
wheelset ordered is 135 xt rear and 110 15mm front.
I run 2x11 (SRAM Rival 22 in my case) with a Spa Cycles twin up front (28/42) and 11-34 at the back. The Spa crankset is cheap and you can specify crank length and pick and mix chainrings. I'm sure the rear mech could cope with a 11-36 easily, but I've not needed to try that yet.
Depends what "touring" is.. but for me it's
Deore touring 24-36-48
With what ever your poison is at the back.
I run 8 speed claris 11/32 - cheap like the budgie.
Nice close ratios for headwinds nice bottom end for climbing mountains with 4 panniers on and nice high gear for tailwinds and going down the mountains.
When the question is “what component for my touring bike” the answer usually lies on Spa Cycles shelves.
in this particular scenario I’d go for (or rather I have gone for) one of these up front;
with a matching quality bb.
stick an appropriate cassette on the back and you’ll be reet for many thousands of miles.
After a rohloff it will be interesting to see how you get on going back to derailleurs! I don't think I could long term
Have to say, I'm far more impressed with the 2X Shimano GRX on my gravel bike than I am with the SRAM Eagle on the MTB.
3*9 Deore MTB chainset 22-32-44.
Rarely use the 44. Regularly use the 22t X 34 rear.
In use it is really a 1*9 for rolling terrain with the 22 for climbs and the 44 for big tailwinds or downhills.
But really the starting point is what low gear you want. My low is 18". I could get by with a 80" high. So if I didn't mind big gaps a 1* 11-46 would work.
On long flat sections I find the standard 17-20 gap annoying sometimes. So much that I made a custom 13-14-16-18-20 23-26-30-34 cassette.
But then people tour on Bromptons or singlespeeds .....
3*9 Deore MTB chainset 22-32-44.
Rarely use the 44. Regularly use the 22t X 34 rear.
Yeah, when I was running a (road) triple on my Amazon I found I was mainly in the middle front ring.
If you're touring with a loaded bike, 1x is never going to be enough, no matter how big the cassette.
why ?
wheelset ordered is 135 xt rear and 110 15mm front
It's that 135mm Over Locknut Dimension. I "Think" most of the more modern set-ups are designed around a 148mm OLD and a wider chain-like. This might restrict you a bit and nudge you towards a 2x set-up.
Also, I'm assuming the new wheels have a HG freehub? Think we need to look at traditional gear set-ups but I'm sure someone else will know for definite.
2x(9or 10) or 3x if you find you run out at the top end. Cheap, long lasting reliable easy to get hold of. You don't need mega quick changes
Sub-compact (2x GRX). 48/31 and 11-34 on my gravel and audax bikes, for touring maybe a 46/28 up front
Ton, just another thought...
If you are looking at a traditional set-up, I wonder if your wrist would be better with something other than trigger shifters?
Bar-end levers or something above the bar? I'm sure you've used loads of different ones in the past.
Electronic shifting would be the easiest on your wrist (imho). You can do 2x electronic gears (SRAM or Shimano)
It’s that 135mm Over Locknut Dimension. I “Think” most of the more modern set-ups are designed around a 148mm OLD and a wider chain-like. This might restrict you a bit and nudge you towards a 2x set-up.
You can use 12 speed on 135mm OLN not problems. I use it on my Longitude.
If you’re touring with a loaded bike, 1x is never going to be enough, no matter how big the cassette.
I think you can easily get a low enough gear for loaded touring on a 1x but it means you will spin out at a relatively low top speed on the smallest sprocket. In practice, for touring on a heavy bike on mixed surfaces (like my ECR) it isn’t too much of a problem for 95% of the time and I only have 11 - 50.
been doing a bit of research on the web, came up with the following,
deore 6000 10spd cassette
deore 6000 10spd mech
deaore 6000 shifters
shimano hg50 chain
raceface 32 nw chain ring
raceface 22 inner ring. i have a raceface aefect crankset now i can use.
shimano xt disc wheelset built by spa cycle (bombproof).
all available. and a very low gear which i like.
any weak points ??
What trailrat said if you're set on a change from the roly.
Alternative shifters for the roly would seem like a sensible option though.
raceface 32 nw chain ring
does nw mean narrow-wide? if so, this is unlikely to work on a 2 ring setup. they aren’t designed for shifting
does nw mean narrow-wide? if so, this is unlikely to work on a 2 ring setup. they aren’t designed for shifting
i wont be fitting a front mech. the inner ring is purely for emergencies.
i wont be fitting a front mech. the inner ring is purely for emergencies.
If only they made a system that worked really well to conveniently move the chain over in an emergency meaning you could use it at more appropriate times than after when you needed it most.
Also if you really wanted to insist on the heavy draggy hub gear....just turn the shifter upside down and put it on the left ..... You can recable them so they still pull the same way.
lol, like a nice 14 speed internal gear system that works in all weather regardless.
my head is in bits.
Assuming flat bars it all looks good. Although I’d want a front shifter, but it’s not my bike
That all sounds fine except I'd fit a front mech and Shimano chainrings. I've used the 22t ring *lots* when touring but I do carry a lot 🙂
I did this a year or two back after bending my 'proper' tourer.
I went for full old school 3x9: 22/34/44 front and 11-34 on the back. For pukka touring, it's all about a good spread of lots of gears with some super low ones for multi day legs up big lumps fully loaded - as you know.
The main issue with 3x9 now is high quality spares availability - I bought forward to alleviate this for a few years.
Doing it fresh again now, I might be talked into a 2x11 setup with a super compact chainset and an 11-42 cassette. 1x really has no place for touring IME - the jumps are just too big. Obv 11 speed kit will wear faster than 9 but at least you can still get high end stuff. I wouldn't go for the chocolate/cheese lovechild that is 12 or 13 speed for that reason.
I'd stll be wanting an ~18" low gear for winching duties.
Also if you really wanted to insist on the heavy draggy hub gear….just turn the shifter upside down and put it on the left ….. You can recable them so they still pull the same way.
Or get a full length of the grip shifter (intended for recumbents but works well on standard bikes too). Or one of the after market trigger shifter systems. Or the electronic system I mentioned above. You are bonkers to move on from the Rohloff you already own to a Deore level setup for want of a different shifter.
You are bonkers to move on from the Rohloff you already own to a Deore level setup for want of a different shifter.
obviously the want off a different shifter is not the only reason i want to change from the rohloff.
i bought the rohloff hub and a ti bike for commuting duties for zero or little spanner time.
i no longer commute, i do however tour. whilst away this week in the dales i found myself struggling to change gear quickly enough on hill. i was nearly coming to a standstill whilst trying to get a low gear. my wrist caused this but i have spent two years riding the rohloff, ant the most obvious thing is, the gear change is very slow compared to a normal rear mech set up. i still prefer a rear mech set up for the quick snappy gear change.
hence my reason for wanting a good rear mech set up on my fargo, which is the bike i like to ride.
Let's be honest It is remarkable how much better shifting than rohloff modern deore is.... Even the claris I have.....pisses on my rohloff.
Let’s be honest It is remarkable how much better shifting than rohloff modern deore is…. Even the claris I have…..pisses on my rohloff.
I can see how you'd think that. I'd just call it different. Yes it's not as snipperty clickerty, but it just works differently. It does like a slight ease off whilst changing, which I can see if you are a masher, is harder. But in a heavily loaded touring situation I really value being able to change gear whilst stationary - I wouldn't want to give that up.
I have found Deore 12sp stuff (cranks and rear mech) far from durable. If really going back to derailleurs I would probably go 2x10 XT - shim 10speed stuff was great, that said just built up my new adventure bike with 1x12 GX/X01 (10-50 x 30, might try a non sram 28t) but mainly as has some parts spare already.
I'm a big rohloff fan and IMO / IME the shit gearshift is the worst thing about it
I have found Deore 12sp stuff (cranks and rear mech) far from durable.
Good job tons a sensible lad and is looking at m6000 ten speed
I wish grx shifters had been around in their latest shape as a 10speed. I'd have fitted 10speed to my cutthroat in a heart beat.
Such is life 11 speed slx will have to do.
I’m a big rohloff fan and IMO / IME the shit gearshift is the worst thing about it
Teej, i am also a big fan of the simplicity and reliability. But if i cant shift the gears it is pointless.
Good job tons a sensible lad and is looking at m6000 ten speed
i am even thinking of going back to 3 x 9 speed. Spa have a load of stuff in.
i am even thinking of going back to 3 x 9 speed
As they say in the nice restaurants: 'good choice' 🙃
Spa are pretty good for this sort of thing.
I've recently revamped my old Salas Vaya (gravel/touring). Previously I had 3x9 on it, now 3x10.
I used a Spa Cycles chainset (26-36-46) and 11-34 Shimano cassette and Shimano brifters (105/Ultegra... can't remember... spares box stuff).
If I didn't need dropbar shifters, then I would definitely have gone 1x12. Plenty of low gears; good spread; faster gear changes; simplicity and, IME, great reliability AND durability. OK, I'd loose some of the higher ratios... but who cares about those!
Just out of interest, how did you get a Rohloff shifter to work on deop bars? It's something I'd like to try myself..