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About to go 11 speed. Decided on XT shifter and mech but deliberating over the cassette. Either XT 11-46 with 32T chain ring or GX 10-42 with 30T chain ring. Range is nigh on identical so the pros and cons are;
XT - Cons - heavy. Looks gash. Big jump to the 46
Pros - More robust? Unlikely to creak. Standard freehub
GX - Cons - Lots of reports of creaking. Found a guide saying some interface points need grease/oil. Anyone come across this?
Pros - Lighter. Looks better. Better gaps between gears.
Leaning much more towards the GX, only the creaking puts me off. Hate a noisy bike.
I also usually run KMC chains, any downsides to this on the GX? Do they really run noticeably better with SRAM chains?
Fanks!
You'll also need a new XD-compatible freehub body if you want to run the GX: https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/xg-1150-full-pin-cassette#sm.0000skanf2ioeo610x91kwfvrjrg1
A 11-42 NX will run on a standard freehub: https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/pg-1130-cassette#sm.0000skanf2ioeo610x91kwfvrjrg1
If you go for the SRAM option, make sure the threads on the XD body are well greased (or use anti-seize).
Cheers, I already have one that I bought used off here. Need to source a Hope/SRAM 12mm endcap though. assume these are the same for 142 and 148 rear ends as the extra width is in the hub shell?
I'm running a GX cassette - no creaking problems but I did make sure I greased everything before fitting.
I run a X1 chain on mine - read they don't play very nicely with KMC chains.
GX on both bikes, no creaking and running KMC chains fine as well.
Got three GX cassettes on the go, not noticed any creaking.
I did grease them well.
My GX cassettes are creak free. As above, plentiful grease in the threads upon install is mandatory. Otherwise 50/50 you shred your freehub body trying to remove the cassette. Regardless of it being an engineering nonsense to torque up the cassette with grease on the threads, that's exactly what SRAM advise, and tbh the result feels possibly tighter than I would have gone for without the torque wrench.
I'm running X1 chains right now but hadn't heard of KMC problems.
Make sure you have a long set of splines on your lockring tool and don't try to fit the cassette with the endcap in place. Shorter splines don't engage fully and will cause pain and expense. If in doubt about the endcap, mail Hope if it's a Hope hub. (info@hopetech.com).
The GX is way more robust than the Shimano or other SRAM cassettes, it's all steel - they all have aluminium for the larger cogs. The threads and need to pay attention to instructions on install are the only weaknesses really if you exclude that other cassettes more than twice the price might be lighter.
Gx kmc no creaking ?
You can get XT/XTR in 11-42 and 11-40 you know. Wouldn't worry about the 10 vs 11 top end cog. Naff all difference. Heavier, maybe a little (though only by 40g between GX 10-42 and XT 11-42). You won't notice the difference riding, and you get to keep to standard freehub instead of XD nonsense.
And I say this as generally a SRAM fan. I just don't like the XD stuff and the way SRAM have gone with their overpriced bling cassettes.
KMC chain - don't know about running better, but they feel great to me, shift fine and most importantly are more durable in my experience than SRAM chains. Have run KMC on SRAM and Shimano cassettes, no difference to me. Wouldn't touch Shimano chains with a barge pole.
Thing is though deadkenny there is a difference. With the Sram 10-42 I can drop a chainring size to get an easier climbing gear without sacrificing any top end. Spin out easy enough as it is so don't want to make it any worse. Besides, I need some purchase justification for all this! Are you new around here? Boost cranks! Boost cranks! Boost cranks!
FWIW I'd agree with the OP on this.
I have a bike that was setup all SRAM 1x11 with 32t front and GX cassette. I wanted to try an alternative wheelset in it as a swapout and there was a Shimano freehub on it - so I got an XT 11-42 cassette to avoid buying a new FH and so I could keep the chain. I hate the XT cassette in this application. It needs a bigger front ring, which will then necessitate an 11-46 cassette to drag the low ratios back in. Bigger cassette that was already very slightly heavier plus a bigger ring is starting to add up. With a modicum of mechanical sympathy the XD driver isn't a problem at all. For my money it's Shimano sticking with their old standard that have dropped the ball, but this is in the context of a personal choice between two systems not the wars of the Crusades... 😀
At the end of the day, people will will use what they like, and that's fine!
You can get XT/XTR in 11-42 and 11-40 you know. Wouldn't worry about the 10 vs 11 top end cog. Naff all difference. Heavier, maybe a little (though only by 40g between GX 10-42 and XT 11-42).
Do the numbers 11t to 10t is a big change it's part of the way they make a bigger range cassette.
No creaks on gx here and it costs about the same as xt last time I looked for bigger range less weight. It's coming up to 2 years of decent use now.
Just to echo others, GX cassette here, no creaking at all. 🙂
GX cassette here, no creaking whatsoever. I did apply a fair bit of grease when I installed it.
It's lasted really well too. Looks a load better than the XT version which looks cheap and nasty like the mega range cassettes on cheapy bikes.
Cheers all, Decathlon have them for £75 so will order one.
Can anyone confirm if the endcap for 142 and 148 spacing is the same before I ring Hope?
deadkenny - Member
You can get XT/XTR in 11-42 and 11-40 you know. Wouldn't worry about the 10 vs 11 top end cog. Naff all difference
10t makes a huge difference.
And XT is totally umcompetitive wight wise versus GX too.
GX cassette is lighter, wider range and better quality than XT. Expensive to convert to if you're on a standard freehub, but if you have the option, it's a no brainer.
honourablegeorge - Member
10t makes a huge difference.
I've had cassettes with 10t and 11t. Crap all difference to me.
Yes it lets them shift the spacing about a little by shuffling cogs up or down one or two 't', but it's subtle differences and end of the day I get the same range that I need. Shimano's argument is their spacing saves energy.
It's a 10% difference between gears. You might not work it out but it's there.