[Closed] Converting to 1x9, using SLX double cranks

You'll need to get some single chainring bolts.

If you struggle on climbs using 32, why are you going to 1x9? I use 32 (with 11/36 out back) and it's fine for most stuff, but you have to accept that long climbs can hurt a bit when you have no ability to sit and spin.

You may need to file down the granny tabs on the SLX cranks.

Thanks.

Okay, I assume that removing the granny ring moves the cranks closer to the BB shell? I have one spacer and the chain guide mount on the drive side.

No, your chainline will stay the same, all you are doing is removing the granny ring.

I'm not sure about how your chainguide will work as a single though. Can you link the model?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17282

BB mount type.

Hmmm, that's a chain tensioner rather than a guide.

You might find you will drop the chain.

It says you can convert to run in a single ring set up by using a Blackspire Blackguard. Worth looking into the cost of one of those.

Alternatively, superstar plasma guides are pretty cheap and work well.

...If you struggle on climbs using 32, why are you going to 1x9? I use 32 (with 11/36 out back)...

that's (sort of) what he's suggesting.

where colin says '32/36' he's talking 'cassette/chainring'

colin, i've just done what you're suggesting. I removed both rings and bash guard.

(bashguard weighed 160grams!)

replace with 1x 32tooth on-one steel ring, held on with 4x brand-X short bolts from chainreaction.

[url= http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=362 ]i'm using a BB mounted guide from superstar[/url], i've got the chain nice and tight, and it's not fallen off yet.

i've also sturdified my guide with a DMR seat-tube clamp, to stop it 'spinning' if/when it comes loose.

[img] [/img]

£3 - chainreaction

i suspect i'm chancing it/am a mincer, and i'm suprised the chain hasn't fallen of 'from the bottom' - when it does i'll probably buy a bionicon DCD-alike.

A stinger isnt much good in a 1x9 or 10 setup, as the chain will fall off the top of the ring. Better off with a top guide or a full guide. Changing your cassette to a 11-34 gives you a handy extra gear too.

that's (sort of) what he's suggesting.

where colin says '32/36' he's talking 'cassette/chainring'

Ah, I read that as chainring/cassette, which is what I run.

I have an SLX crankset and as far as I recall, the bashguard and largest ring are bolted together, the granny is on separate bolts.
This being the case, you will not need new chainring bolts if you intend to keep the bashguard.
If you do not intend to keep the bashguard, then normally you put your ring onto the tabs which previously took the bash, the outermost tabs in other word, except you WILL then need shorter bolts.

If you are going single at the front, then really the Stinger guide is not what you need. Because you are losing the front mech, you will no longer have any retention on the top of the ring. So, you need a full guide, top and bottom.
As mentioned, Superstar ones are ok and fairly cheap, and a BB-mounted one will do you if you don't have iscg tabs. You can get them for working with or without a bash.

I'm not sure if you will need to file your granny tabs but if I recall correctly, the SLX cranks have fairly low-profile tabs and so you may not need to.

You quite often have to faff a bit with spacing the chain device correctly, playing with the spacers behind the BB shell but you can get there eventually.

then normally you put your ring onto the tabs which previously took the bash, the outermost tabs in other words.

i didn't do that - wouldn't it create a really bad chain-line?

i just put the new 32toother in the 'middle'...?

You quite often have to faff a bit with spacing the chain device correctly, playing with the spacers behind the BB shell but you can get there eventually.

true, the superstar guide even came with 3 thin BB-spacer-shims - mine runs silently.

You'll probably want to remove that spacer to move the outer ring in a tad thus giving a better chainline across the whole cassette. I run 32x11-32 and find that pretty good for everything but I'll go 11-36 when I eventually move to 1x10.

i didn't do that - wouldn't it create a really bad chain-line?

I think you're right, but I think I've countered this in the past by playing about with the spacers.
I can never remember, but know that fitting a chaindevice is rarely totally straightforward seemingly..

I recently went from 2x9 to 1x9 with SLX cranks. I've got a 32 chainring (which used the existing bolts, as I kept the bash), with a 11-34 cassette. I'm not the fittest, but I don't miss my granny ring at all.

I do have a Blackspire stinger ISCG which I kept on from my 2x9 setup. However you will need some sort of guide instead of, or as well as your stinger. I initially opted for a Blackspire Blackguard, however it was really too close to my pivot on the swingarm (on an Orange Five), so replaced it with a Hope Chain Guide (seat tube mount) and it works a treat.

I used it at Antur and Snowdon a couple of weeks back and it didn't drop once.

Okay....looks like I'll need to spend a little more than I'd hoped. Will stick with 2x9 for now.

Thanks for all the replies, at least I know what do to when the time comes.

Colin