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[Closed] Considering a move to 1x9 what's the neatest front guide option?

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 robh
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Think the title says it all really currently running a Middleburn duo, want to go to 1x9 what options are there for the front single guide?

Firstly neatest, secondly cheapest?

Or can I get away with tight chain and no guide?


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 4:35 pm
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Don't know cheapest but i use the pauls one on my CX bike

Really good, Doubt you'll get chain tight enough


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 4:36 pm
 robh
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Anywhere in the UK selling the Pauls one or does it have to come from the US?


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 7:40 pm
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[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=40904 ]this[/url] is probably one of the better solutions around.


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 7:41 pm
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Cheapest will be superstar.

Neatest is straitline, no moving parts and pretty much silent.


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 7:42 pm
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really impressed with my ethirteen xcx - totally silent, does the job perfectly and I think it looks nicer than the MRP one

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 7:51 pm
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Fresh Stripe have just got some of the Pauls ones in, got mine through last week, very nice!
http://www.freshtripe.co.uk/Freshtripe/Drivetrain.html


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 7:54 pm
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cheapest has surely got to be a front mech (assuming you have the old one) with limit screws adjusted, and lowered to sit closer to the chain in the same position as a bling 30 quid guide?


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 7:57 pm
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My E13 LS1 is pretty neat and has held the chain on nice an tight during DH runs and the alps etc.

[img] [/img]

I'd recommend something holding it top and bottom if you're riding rough stuff.


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 7:59 pm
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front mechs are crap, they are too wide for the job at hand, so the chain can and does come off.


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 7:59 pm
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I'm considering the MRP one for my FS as i think that looks neatest.

Without hijacking the thread too much, do you still drop the chain much using one with just the top bit (i.e no lower roller guide)?


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 8:02 pm
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I still mostly think they look gash but that Paul's one is almost acceptable. Mmmm, ponders again going 1 x 9 on the Roadrat.....


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 8:10 pm
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I thought the MRP 1.x was awful... bolts made of cheese, blocked with mud and woodland detritus in an instant. Managed to get hold of a Paul Components Chainkeeper; superb bit of kit!


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 8:12 pm
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Get a single speed front ring? Longer teeth helps to keep the chain on


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 8:13 pm
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Im running middleburn 7s on my decade virsa 1x9 with an uno chainring. The Paul chainkeeper fouls the crank arms when you have it set in the correct posistion over the chainring. Had to take as hacksaw to the out flange of the chainkeeper to allow it to clear the crank arm which was a bit of a shame but seems ok now. Saying that I havn't but it back on yet but run the chain quite short (plus 1 link rather than 2) and havn't dropped the chain yet even over rough s.wales rocky natural trails.


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 8:16 pm
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I converted my Cotic Soul to a 1x 9 setup. short cage rear mech, Singlespeed Gusset front ring (longer teeth),lightweight bashguard and an N-gear Jump Stop to stop the chain coming off. Works a treat and is pretty light although it's only been used for Xc/trail rinding.


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 8:19 pm
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I always dropped chains until I realised that the bottom roller is way the forward.

I now run LG1's on both my bikes and so far have never dropped a chain.


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 8:21 pm
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do you still drop the chain much using one with just the top bit

never, only risk is from the chain coming off when backpedalling to set your cranks for a corner
combined with a short cage rear mech and tight chain I can't see it being an issue
although, that's a hardtail, different story with rear suspension


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 8:24 pm
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I use an N-Gear Jump Stop, a RaceFace bash ring and an e13 Guide Ring chainring. Works really well and has done since 2005, even with a "normal" chainring.


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 8:30 pm
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This thread is exactly how I've been spending my evening on CRC. Wish I'd have come here first.

Talk to me about ratios... 32, 11:34?


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 9:02 pm
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33t ring and 11-34t cassette works for me.


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 10:29 pm
 AntM
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I've got an MRP top guide on my XC race bike and that has worked well. Still looking good even after 10 @ Kirroughtree solo destroyed my chainring, chain, cassette and jockey wheels. 🙁


 
Posted : 22/08/2010 11:25 pm
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I've got a Widgit ( http://www.widgit.com.au/) which I'm very happy with. Replaces the front chainring completely. Weight-wise probably not as light as an E-Thirteen or MRP guide, and definitely costlier, but I've never had a dropped chain.


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 1:42 am
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Anyone who suggests just a front mech is ok doesn't ride anything rocky/bumpy. I've been running mine like that for the last couple of months and drop the chain at least 5 times over a 2 hour ride. Waiting for SS to get chain devices back in. Thinking about doing my Blur 4X as well though but maybe with a 'proper' chain device like an LG1.


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 7:08 am
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Superstar are bringing out what looks to be an MRP 1.x rip off soon, looks quite good to me.


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 7:49 am
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I thought the MRP 1.x was awful... bolts made of cheese

If you get the MRP 1x I would suggest changing the mounting screw before fitting it. Did mine up lovely, but had to drill it off because it rounded off instantly when I wanted to adjust it. I like the look of it though and it works. I have a SS chainring but I think a short cage mech is in order to complete the setup?

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 8:32 am
 Rod
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I couldn't get the MRP 1x to fit, so I've got a Paul chainkeeper which is lovely...

(does mean I have a fitted but unused MRP 1x for sale when I get round to advertising though)


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 8:41 am
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My MRP 1X hasn't been great. 😥

Bolts made of cheese and is not happy with my Middleburn cranks. 😡

Has dropped the chain a couple of times. Cannot adjust it any lower as the cage catches on the back of the cranks 😈

Still its a fairly neat option 😆

[IMG] [/IMG]


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 8:57 am
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I reckon that needs rotating clockwise about 30deg.


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 10:22 am
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Ive got an ngear jumpstop im not using if anyone wants it?

Send us a mail


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 11:07 am
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Some great info in here - thanks!
I didn't realise there were as many options.

In the current Dirt mag they keep going on about how quiet 1x9 (or 10) with a guide is compared to a trad setup. Do you guys find this?


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 12:29 pm
 tang
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ngear jumpstop and fsa bash here. sweet as and looks tidy.


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 12:40 pm
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What seat tube mounted chain guides are there out there?

I've found the Paul's Comp one and think it looks like it wont allow the chain to drop off the top but is pricey and the DMR one that looks like it will rattle a hell of a lot with all that metal.

Can't use MRP or E13 ones as they will send my pedals over to the right and make setting up over the chain ring hard - i'm using a square taper BB.


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 2:06 pm
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the Paul's Keeper is a nice bit of kit - works really well but can get noisy in the mud.

Talk to me about ratios... 32, 11:34?

36-11/34


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 2:10 pm
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Would using an MRP or similar be any lighter that a conventional 3 ring set up?


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 2:36 pm
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Front mech might not be ideal but its the only option I could find that would let me run a 44T ring. Not dropped the chain yet


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 2:41 pm
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these will hopefully be available in september, looks identical to the e13 guard for a lot less
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=362

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 23/08/2010 2:43 pm