[Closed] Complete loss of rear spoke tension

Linseed oil? Are you not supposed to use thread lock?

Dunno. How essential is threadlock?

Hucking?

As in actual fat-ass drops?

Show me some...

P.S.
It's not the threadlock

Did you de-tension during the build process? (putting the wheel flat and pressing down on the rim to settle the spoke crossing points)

I would imagine the spokes twisted during your final stages of tensioning: did you do the roger musson trick with the bit of masking tape?

I've never used Threadlock, it's just un-necessary. Sounds like tension was an issue from day 1.

Tensions were off.

Ditto.

I never thread lock - always used Finish Line XC lube on the nipples. Without sufficient tension, it'll come undone pretty quickly.

No I didn't re tension. The back wheel sat there for about 3 days before I rode today. The front wheel has lost a little tension but would have a lot less stresses to deal with and was completed more recently.

What is the roger musson trick with the masking tape? I read somewhere that you might need to hold the spoke with pliers during tensioning.

Does the tape allow you to see if the spoke is turning with the nipple?

Linseed oil was used prior to Loctite as it lubricates and then dries to perform a similar function - sounds as though tension was insufficient on the original build. The tension needs to be sufficient that the spoke doesn't loose tension during use.

I just use a little light oil (motor engine oil usually) before building. Nothing else should be necessary.

Thanks folks, very helpful.

How essential is threadlock?

completely unessential

Assuming it's a disc rear wheel, you need to be concentrating mostly on the tension of the drive side spokes - unless you're using a fancy symmetrical hub the tension of the non drive side is more or less out of your control and a result of the tension of your drive side spokes getting up to what is required and getting the dish right. You still need to get even tensions in non drive side though.

Bear in mind the wheels you were comparing against might be too slack, or a different spoke length/thickness affecting how the pitch sounded when plucked. I've built 6 wheels without a tension meter, just using pitch of the plucked spoke, took them to LBS who measured them and they were fine, towards the higher end of acceptable tension but all even, so it can be done without one.

I think roger musson's book is excellent and it isn't expensive.

Unless you tension the spokes properly the spoke heads (at the bend) bed in to the hub for the first few rides.

Ok thanks. I'm wondering if I could retension with the tyres still on (they're tubless). This might make dishing awkward but I would be tensioning them in the frame (like when I built them) and could make sure they're central. I suppose I would need to at least deflate the tyres.

scotroutes - Member
I've never used Threadlock, it's just un-necessary. Sounds like tension was an issue from day 1.

Agree on both counts.

I use olive oil. Mainly because it's always handy in the kitchen and I don't mind getting it on my hands, and if any gets left in the rim it won't rot the tube.

The best way for detensioning, ie releasing wind up, is by squeezing the spoke pairs. (That's IMO)

tyres off for sure, you can do a bit of truing with a tyre on but the wheel, especially a tight tubeless one, will have a significant and probably quite uneven effect on spoke tensions

1) You don't need threadlock. I would personally not recommend it at all, except in specific exotic cases. I use engine oil (what ever is in my garage at the time), but linseed should be fine too.

2) Don't use pliers!! Chances are they will damage the spoke.

3) With new spokes you need to put some pressure with your thumb near the elbow of the spoke. This straightens out the spoke prior to tensioning. It sounds like your spokes straightened a bit and then unwound. Spokes tend to twist a bit as you do the final tightening. Masking tape is used so you can see when the nipple is turning on the spoke vs the spoke itself turning.

4) Spokes need detensioning several times as you build the wheel. Otherwise everything goes ping, ping, ting, tong the moment you ride them.

I really recommend Roger Musens eBook. Its £9 well spent. I was trained by an excellent wheel builder and had been building wheels for 16 years before I came across it. I still learnt loads of useful tips.

Linseed oil? Are you not supposed to use thread lock?

Linseed is used as a thread lock. It dries out and locks the thread. It's very old school these days.
Personally I never us any sort of thread lock. This is what I was taught and backed up by what I've read. A properly tensioned wheel doesn't need it, but you DO need to be able to turn the spok s in the future to true the wheel. As such the threads should be lubricated on assembly with a light oil. My wheels are tough and well proven. I don't get problems with them.

I forgot to mention I use a hard rubber mallet to make the spoke conform to the hub at the elbow. This is done at about ¾ tension.

Linseed oil is very weak as a threadlock. Break out torque only marginally higher than a lightly lubed thread.

What linseed oil does it lubes when building and tensioning helping prevent twist up in the spoke and then drys out sealing the thread from crap getting in to corode, and a very minor threadlocking action. Makes them much easier to turn in the future than a dry assembled thread

Works very well , i build old school as i was taught by an old schooler. Never had hassle with any of my builds and i give them a hard time.

If i needed threadlock id use prolock nipples, but both not needed in most cases - although there are exceptions

[b]warning . Linseed oil self combusts on rags etc dispose propperly and dont leave lying around the workshop.[/b]