Has anyone changed the bars and/or stem on a bike with headset cable routing?
I have a Rise H10 LT on order and was hoping to swap over my carbon Deity bars and UniteCo stem, so have asked the shop to fit the Orbea "universal collector" (ICR headset cover with no spin block that allows you to use your own stem) when building the bike, but as I impatiently await the bikes arrival it's dawned on me that the cable for the Shimano E600 motor controller is routed through the stem into a hole in the clamp area of the bars then out another hole near the grip end.
As such, if I do decide fit my own bars and stem I'll need to route the cable externally and zip tie or tape it to the bars or dropper cable... which will look a bit shit and negate the whole point of ICR. We can all agree it's an awful invention that causes more problems than it solves, but at least it looks nice and neat.
For an easier life I could just stick with stock parts and leave the good stuff on my Roscoe when it comes to selling it, but I'm asking in hope that someone smarter than me has come up with a tidy solution that doesn't involve spending £150 on carbon OneUp, Orbea or PRO "ebike specific" bars with the cable holes pre drilled.
I've done this, changed the bar and stem (on a different bike), just used a normal bar and stem without any adaptors and has worked. Sadly have had to coil the motor controller around the dropper cable, yes it looks shit.
Bumped into someone else who had done the same, he had bought the shorter cable (still too long) and taped it to the bar, looked slightly less shit, but still shit.
Apparently you can buy a motor controller that connects via Bluetooth and you then get rid of the bar display, but that then means having no display, which I quite like. So I'm stuck with a shit solution. I change bars/stem combo infrequently as I like trying different set ups so I'm just sticking with it looking a bit shit.
If you're bothered, some heat shrink would improve it massively
https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/ew-en100-junction-a.2697/
Have a read of that, tells you what you need to know.
I've done this, changed the bar and stem (on a different bike), just used a normal bar and stem without any adaptors and has worked. Sadly have had to coil the motor controller around the dropper cable, yes it looks shit.
Bumped into someone else who had done the same, he had bought the shorter cable (still too long) and taped it to the bar, looked slightly less shit, but still shit.
Apparently you can buy a motor controller that connects via Bluetooth and you then get rid of the bar display, but that then means having no display, which I quite like. So I'm stuck with a shit solution. I change bars/stem combo infrequently as I like trying different set ups so I'm just sticking with it looking a bit shit.
If you're bothered, some heat shrink would improve it massively
Varying grades of shit 😆
I was thinking shrink wrapping it with the dropper cable would probably be the best option too. At least it keeps it off the bars and both cables together.
I like the idea of a Bluetooth controller. I'll Google that and check out that link too, thanks!
FWIW, the Rise only comes with the EN600 switch/controller. There's no display by default, although you can fit one (more cables!). I'm happy checking out battery level/distance etc on my phone though.
The more I look into this the more I think the best option is to just leave the stock stem on it and pony up for the OneUp or e13 carbon bars with the cable routing holes. At least with the stock stem there's the hole for the controller cable and space behind the bars for the little junction box.
Theres always the option of drilling some holes in your bars! It would probably be fine, although really you want the slot so that the cable runs under the grips as well.
I swapped a damaged carbon Orbea bar for the aluminium Pro and had to enlarge the hole in the bar. The Orbea arrangement has the hole behind the stem plate and it's large enough for the connector that links the cable from the motor to the cable attached the the bar control. That has to go in the bar - there isn't *quite* enough space in the gap behind the faceplate.
(Shimano's central bar hole is to the side of the stem, assuming you're going to be linking the bar control to their display, and that to the motor)
Apparently you can buy a motor controller that connects via Bluetooth and you then get rid of the bar display, but that then means having no display, which I quite like. So I'm stuck with a shit solution. I change bars/stem combo infrequently as I like trying different set ups so I'm just sticking with it looking a bit shit.
I dont' think that's actually what that box is (if it's the one in the next post). I think the bluetooth connection is normally in the display (you use BT to connect to your phone, and I'm guessing it needs to NOT be inside a metal bike frame or motor casing).
The older Rise's with no display used this junction box hanging out with the rest of the cables in front of the bike. I *think* the BT connection is now integrated into the bar control so you don't need that box (just an inline barrel connector). You still have a wire from the bar control to the motor.
Theres always the option of drilling some holes in your bars! It would probably be fine, although really you want the slot so that the cable runs under the grips as well.
I swapped a damaged carbon Orbea bar for the aluminium Pro and had to enlarge the hole in the bar. The Orbea arrangement has the hole behind the stem plate and it's large enough for the connector that links the cable from the motor to the cable attached the the bar control. That has to go in the bar - there isn't *quite* enough space in the gap behind the faceplate.
(Shimano's central bar hole is to the side of the stem, assuming you're going to be linking the bar control to their display, and that to the motor)
I'll normally take any excuse to get the Dremel out, but wouldn't trust drilling carbon bars. Plus as you say, you need the under grip channel.
Looks like there's space for the connector on the 2025 model.
Theres always the option of drilling some holes in your bars! It would probably be fine, although really you want the slot so that the cable runs under the grips as well.
I swapped a damaged carbon Orbea bar for the aluminium Pro and had to enlarge the hole in the bar. The Orbea arrangement has the hole behind the stem plate and it's large enough for the connector that links the cable from the motor to the cable attached the the bar control. That has to go in the bar - there isn't *quite* enough space in the gap behind the faceplate.
(Shimano's central bar hole is to the side of the stem, assuming you're going to be linking the bar control to their display, and that to the motor)
I'll normally take any excuse to get the Dremel out, but wouldn't trust drilling carbon bars. Plus as you say, you need the under grip channel.
Looks like there's space for the connector on the 2025 model.
that’s interesting. I was working on a 2025 bike and couldn’t seem to get it to fit without being crushed by the bar. Though I had thought that’s where it should have gone.
this was a short Orbea stem though. I wonder if it’s only an issue with the shortest one. And the Orbea bar hole was definitely big enough for it to go inside.
Theres always the option of drilling some holes in your bars! It would probably be fine, although really you want the slot so that the cable runs under the grips as well.
I swapped a damaged carbon Orbea bar for the aluminium Pro and had to enlarge the hole in the bar. The Orbea arrangement has the hole behind the stem plate and it's large enough for the connector that links the cable from the motor to the cable attached the the bar control. That has to go in the bar - there isn't *quite* enough space in the gap behind the faceplate.
(Shimano's central bar hole is to the side of the stem, assuming you're going to be linking the bar control to their display, and that to the motor)
I'll normally take any excuse to get the Dremel out, but wouldn't trust drilling carbon bars. Plus as you say, you need the under grip channel.
Looks like there's space for the connector on the 2025 model.
that’s interesting. I was working on a 2025 bike and couldn’t seem to get it to fit without being crushed by the bar. Though I had thought that’s where it should have gone.
this was a short Orbea stem though. I wonder if it’s only an issue with the shortest one. And the Orbea bar hole was definitely big enough for it to go inside.
Ah, it could be dependent on stem length although I would have thought they'd cover that in the manual as its pretty damn comprehensive! There's no mention on what size frame comes with what size stem but I did notice that in the section with Di2 wiring but no EN600 display it actually shows a 4 port connector inside the stem. If the EN600 display is used then there's no connector required as that has all the ports. I'm fine without the display though, happy to use my phone for stats and have less on the bars. I stop and take photos every 5 minutes anyway 😀
I emailed OneUp to see how big the cable hole is in the center of their bars and its 10x6mm so that will be big enough to fit the Shimano connector in. Its also positioned on the base meaning I can route the cable directly from the headset port and ultimately still use my UniteCo stem. I'll probably need to pack in some foam to stop it rattling.
Also got an email from the shop today to say the flat headset cover thing has now arrived with customs from Orbea in Spain so hopefully it won't be too much longer until the bike is with me.
Plan semi scuppered... had to move my bike earlier so looked under the stem and both the body(?) and the faceplate fully enclose the bars at the bottom, so no space to run a cable.
I could theoretically Dremel a small notch, or I could look for something with a machined gap on the bottom. The Title ST1 and Oak Components Eternal both look like they'd have space, and are suitably angular (I don't like stems that look like they're made from two tubes, a la Race Face. Don't ask, it's some kind of weird OCD).
I could theoretically Dremel a small notch, or I could look for something with a machined gap on the bottom. The Title ST1 and Oak Components Eternal both look like they'd have space, and are suitably angular (I don't like stems that look like they're made from two tubes, a la Race Face. Don't ask, it's some kind of weird OCD).
Have you had those stems in your hands to inspect, or going by internet pics? I have a Title ST1 on my Stanton and an Oak sat in a box unused. I can get some detailed pics at the weekend if you want me to
These stems appear to be suitable for cable routing if it helps at all https://www.pro-bikegear.com/uk/mtb/stems/tharsis-stem
I could theoretically Dremel a small notch, or I could look for something with a machined gap on the bottom. The Title ST1 and Oak Components Eternal both look like they'd have space, and are suitably angular (I don't like stems that look like they're made from two tubes, a la Race Face. Don't ask, it's some kind of weird OCD).
Have you had those stems in your hands to inspect, or going by internet pics? I have a Title ST1 on my Stanton and an Oak sat in a box unused. I can get some detailed pics at the weekend if you want me to
I've seen a Title in the flesh, and Oak have confirmed there's space for a cable via email.
Would definitely be interested if they're black.
Cheers!
These stems appear to be suitable for cable routing if it helps at all https://www.pro-bikegear.com/uk/mtb/stems/tharsis-stem
That looks cool, but I think the lower brace on the faceplate would block the cable hole on the OneUp bars, which I'm quite set on.
Appreciate the link though!
I could theoretically Dremel a small notch, or I could look for something with a machined gap on the bottom. The Title ST1 and Oak Components Eternal both look like they'd have space, and are suitably angular (I don't like stems that look like they're made from two tubes, a la Race Face. Don't ask, it's some kind of weird OCD).
Have you had those stems in your hands to inspect, or going by internet pics? I have a Title ST1 on my Stanton and an Oak sat in a box unused. I can get some detailed pics at the weekend if you want me to
I've seen a Title in the flesh, and Oak have confirmed there's space for a cable via email.
Would definitely be interested if they're black.
Cheers!
ST1 is Silver and in use anyway
Oak is Lunar Grey unfortunately (35mm x 42mm)
I could theoretically Dremel a small notch, or I could look for something with a machined gap on the bottom. The Title ST1 and Oak Components Eternal both look like they'd have space, and are suitably angular (I don't like stems that look like they're made from two tubes, a la Race Face. Don't ask, it's some kind of weird OCD).
Have you had those stems in your hands to inspect, or going by internet pics? I have a Title ST1 on my Stanton and an Oak sat in a box unused. I can get some detailed pics at the weekend if you want me to
I've seen a Title in the flesh, and Oak have confirmed there's space for a cable via email.
Would definitely be interested if they're black.
Cheers!
ST1 is Silver and in use anyway
Oak is Lunar Grey unfortunately (35mm x 42mm)
Ta. If I can't source a black one then I may get back to you on that. Oak are sold out until end of Feb but I think a few UK shops might have them.
Ta. If I can't source a black one then I may get back to you on that. Oak are sold out until end of Feb but I think a few UK shops might have them.
It's a strange colour to photograph - doesn't really look like that pic above and doesn't really look like the photos on the Oak website, probably somewhere in-between. I'll try and get a realistic shot at the weekend.
I like it, just didn't go with my Gusset MJ bars.
Cykel House often have stock
*Edit, found this - have the silver bolts too
Ta. If I can't source a black one then I may get back to you on that. Oak are sold out until end of Feb but I think a few UK shops might have them.
It's a strange colour to photograph - doesn't really look like that pic above and doesn't really look like the photos on the Oak website, probably somewhere in-between. I'll try and get a realistic shot at the weekend.
I like it, just didn't go with my Gusset MJ bars.
Cykel House often have stock
*Edit, found this - have the silver bolts too
It's definitely a thing of beauty 😍
Would that colour go with this though?
Not my image by the way, I would have slammed the seatpost and had the tyre logos at 12 o'clock 😆
I think it's more gold in natural light.
Would that colour go with this though?
Hmmm, probably/definitely not methinks. Would end up being a contender for one of the aesthetics threads 🤣
being a contender for one of the aesthetics threads
I'd not worry on that count! Job already jobbed.
@citizenlee of the two I prefer the Title - it's chunkier.
Pics today as I got a new title top cap
That's looks awesome! Where did you get the stem from? Alan's?
That's looks awesome! Where did you get the stem from? Alan's?
Cheers
No mate, Slam69
Top cap from Wheelie Bike Shop
That's looks awesome! Where did you get the stem from? Alan's?
Cheers
No mate, Slam69
Top cap from Wheelie Bike Shop
Ah, forgot Slam69 existed! Ta 😉
Before I drop 100 bones on a stem, I'm still tempted to Dremel a little notch for the cables on my UniteCo.
The V2 has this area machined out, and the faceplate is two separate parts. We're only talking around 2 or 3mm removed from each side with the Dremel, so should be OK.
