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[Closed] Canyon strive reverb replacement, internal routing and reconnection question.

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Just got a warranty replacement stealth reverb to fit to my strive cf.
Where the hose exits the frame near headtube there is a threaded round nut which hose passes through, this appears to be holding in place some sort of internal routing tube running down the down tube, is this correct? Don't want to fiddle about with it to much incase I loose it in the frame, but wouldn't have minded swooping it to the rh side to suit cabling better as I've swooped rh remote to under bar on lh side.
The reverb has the connectamajig on it but the routing hole only fits a hose through with no fittings so makes the connectamajig useless.
I was planning to unscrew the remote off the hose and thread it through using draw cable I left in when removing old one, will the barb etc be reuse-able on the remote once I've removed it ?
Cheers.


 
Posted : 16/02/2016 6:23 pm
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Hi,
Have just seen your post about reverb replacement. When I had a warranty swap out, I left the hose in place and unscrewed from post end. How did you get on? I'm looking to get the new 170 post which is now conectamagic, so will have to swap complete assy out this time. Was the job quite straight forward? I presume the piping stays in place in the frame once nut assy is loosened at head tube? I had to redo my rear deraileur cabling, so had headset out and gave it the once over - looks fixed internally.

Regards

Dave


 
Posted : 10/05/2016 6:55 am
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So I had to do this today - I thought I'd share my findings. I returned my Reverb, and it was replaced with a new 'B1' version which is great, but did mean re-routing the whole cable since the hoses are different.

My is the Strive CF Race 8.0. I have no idea if the aluminium ones are the same, sorry. On my frame, there is an 'inner' corrugated tubing which runs from the cable stop at the head tube all the way to the seat tube, though I couldn't see the end of it looking down the seat tube. Since you can't see the end, it is essentially impossible to install the cable from the seat tube side - it's sort of a one-way street. The problem with this is that the inner corrugated tubing is only wide enough to accept the hose, and no fixings. The Reverb has a press-fit fixing on the seatpost end of the hose which you can't remove. So the Reverb forces you to install the hose from the seatpost side. Infuriating!

The way I got around this was to use my pre-existing Reverb hose, and a extremely useful little trinket that I found in the (new) Reverb box - see picture below. Basically you can load the old hose (which I'm now using only as a guide) from the headtube end - with a bit of jiggling it'll pass and pop out of the seat tube. Then the little red trinket screws into that, and also into the new hose (lever removed). Now they're firmly joined and you can drag the cable through. Then it's just a case of attaching the lever and bleeding the hose.

In order to see what's going on, I ended taking the cranks / BB / forks out. This is completely unnecessary and doesn't help, it transpires.

I don't know how you would do it without a spare length of Reverb hose (fortunately I kept my old lever & hose when I returned the post to Fishers) and the red adaptor. It'd be very difficult I guess. The inner guide is too narrow to allow any duct tape to join the two hoses, unfortunately. Maybe a super-long gear cable threaded through the frame and then down inside the new hose would provide enough of a guide to push the hose through.

[IMG] [/IMG]


 
Posted : 08/06/2016 1:28 pm
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I presume the piping stays in place in the frame once nut assy is loosened at head tube?

Yes, if you only loosen and don't undo the nut assembly completely. I would recommend you don't lose it into the downtube - it's very difficult to get back into its slot. There's no reason to unscrew the nut anyway.


 
Posted : 08/06/2016 1:30 pm